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I was over on C5 and am currently buying a two post lift. It was mentioned that certain care must be taken when lifting a C3, like keeping the doors closed and tops on.
I've got an asymetricial 2 post and I lift it any and all of those ways. The T-tops shouldn't add much, if any, structrural rigidity. The doors add some, but if you are getting frame flex from the lift then IMO you have serious problems elsewhere. All your weight is on the frame while it's on the ground anyway, so the frame has to be rigid either way. The t-bar is helping to prevent the frame from folding up too. If you have a convertable then the theory would be the same, but a poor frame would probably flex much sooner. I don't seem to have any problems openning or closing the doors with it on the lift.
Hey flying ace, I'm in the market for a two post lift also. I talked with the Bendpak guy at length at SEMA last week. I think I'm gonna get the XL-9 for $2200. Installed is another $400. I think that's a good deal. What are you getting?
Bee Jay
I was over on C5 and am currently buying a two post lift. It was mentioned that certain care must be taken when lifting a C3, like keeping the doors closed and tops on.
Is it necessary?
Thanks for any input
My mechanic buddy tells me that he's seen quite a few inexperienced mechanics lift C3 Vettes with the doors closed and they've split the fiberglass on the rear quarterpanel area all the way down.
I'm a newbie but he's an experienced 25yr+ GM guy and he told me don't EVER lift it or let a shop lift it without opening the doors first.
Hmmm.....? Anyone know which is the right way to do it for certain?
Hey flying ace, I'm in the market for a two post lift also. I talked with the Bendpak guy at length at SEMA last week. I think I'm gonna get the XL-9 for $2200. Installed is another $400. I think that's a good deal. What are you getting?
Bee Jay
Bee Jay,
I'm getting a Rotary A10ip 2 post assymetrical 10K pound lift, $3250 with some extra gadgets. Install is $450.00.
My mechanic buddy tells me that he's seen quite a few inexperienced mechanics lift C3 Vettes with the doors closed and they've split the fiberglass on the rear quarterpanel area all the way down.
I'm a newbie but he's an experienced 25yr+ GM guy and he told me don't EVER lift it or let a shop lift it without opening the doors first.
Hmmm.....? Anyone know which is the right way to do it for certain?
O.K....here is the skinny on lifting Vettes: On coupes, if your body mounts are good, it doesn't matter if the doors are open or closed. If the mounts are worn,(many are) you may not be able to open or shut them, so leave them closed. On coupes, I always loosen the t-top latches if they are glass tops. On Verts, if the mounts are good, leave the doors closed, unless you need to get in the car. If the mounts are soft, leave the doors cracked open. There is a lot of frame deflection on Verts! I haven't seen a lift crack a Vert. quarter panel yet in 20 years.
I have always heard that you should leave the doors open, tops loose and hood popped and every vette place that I've ever been to does exactly that. The reason being that you need to allow it to flex freely and nothing binds, such as front of doors, tops of fenders can split, ect, ect. Keeping the doors closed or tops on isn't going to stop it, it is the binding of such joints that causes the damage. I've never seen it happen, but figure why take the chance?
My mechanic buddy tells me that he's seen quite a few inexperienced mechanics lift C3 Vettes with the doors closed and they've split the fiberglass on the rear quarterpanel area all the way down.
I'm a newbie but he's an experienced 25yr+ GM guy and he told me don't EVER lift it or let a shop lift it without opening the doors first.
Hmmm.....? Anyone know which is the right way to do it for certain?
Pat
All I can do is give my experience, my father owns a classic car restoration business and specializes in C1-C3 Vettes. He's been a mechanic for 40yrs and currently have 2 bloomington Gold/Duntov Award winning corvettes in the shop along with 2 big block vettes and 4 other muscle cars. That said this isn't our first rodeo, not saying damage can't happen just that it doesn't happen often. I've never seen it firsthand.
I do and will continue to lift my cars with the door closed, take it for what it's worth.
I store my 4 Vettes and a friends up on jackstands every winter. Lift em with a floor jack at the trans crossmember. One side then the other. Doors closed, glass tops latched. Been doing this for over 20 years, never any problem. Doors open just fine once up on the stands.
Mike
If the frame is solid ... there is no flex and no damage.
Why do "vette shops" do a song and dance before lifting ?
Well, maybe because they don't KNOW if the frame is solid yet ...
better safe than sorry for the shop ... they don't wanna fix your vette for free.
Any flex is gonna be bad for glass tops, but it would take
lots of flex to push the door into the rear quarter.
To the guys considering the lifts. The quotes for the install are probably fair, but if you can work on your Vette you can install one of these lifts. All the weight is at the bottom, so the columns are not difficult to lift & set upright. I did mine by myself, although it would be worth a few beers to have a friend help. It's all in your priorities, I'd pay the machine shop to install & degree my cam & you'd have the lift guys set it up. Just my $.02, we each enjoy spending our money in different ways.
I used the same guy that installed the lifts at my shop install the lift at my home garage. He was in and out in 2 hours....All I had to do was the hard-wire. It would have taken me all day..(too many coffee/beer breaks)
I was told that I would have to rent a fork lift to get it off of the truck when the lift arrived. That's about $100. The installer does all the lifting, installing, and adjusting, for about $400. Seems like a good deal. Of course I get to observe, help, manage. Part of the $400 fee I guess.
Bee Jay