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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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Default How to strip paint

I know that most of you out there refuse to use a chemical stripper because it can stay in the fiberglass and all,

Crap...instead of quotes i edited...damn...long long day

Last edited by GDaina; Nov 16, 2005 at 12:52 AM.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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Hello Mike,

I used spra strip from MidAmerica... This stuff works great, spray it on
let it soak a few minutes and I used a plastic putty knife to remove it,
also carry a small box with you to wipe off the old paint. My 9 year old son and I did it in one weekend.... we had a ball and I saved about $700.00 for media blasting. Just wear the right eye protection and rubber gloves. Oh by the way I used 2 gallons of the product.

Good luck
Butch
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Butch R
Hello Mike,

I used spra strip from MidAmerica... This stuff works great, spray it on
let it soak a few minutes and I used a plastic putty knife to remove it,
also carry a small box with you to wipe off the old paint. My 9 year old son and I did it in one weekend.... we had a ball and I saved about $700.00 for media blasting. Just wear the right eye protection and rubber gloves. Oh by the way I used 2 gallons of the product.

Good luck
Butch


Sounds too good to be true (I hope that it is true). Anyone else have experience with this product?
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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I used the chemical strip. I found it to be a pain in the a$$. I swapped over to razor blades. It was almost fun.

http://www.vette-restoration.com/body.htm


Mike
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 08:50 PM
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How long does it take with the razor blades to do the whole car?
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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So if you strip the paint with the stuff from MidAmerica, what else do you have to do to get and excess off? Or is the spray really powerfull as is? Think it would be cheaper to do it myself this way so I'm real interested in knowin. Ah I'm so new to the C3 world
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 09:14 PM
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Welcome . Anyone with ideas/something to say?
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 09:44 PM
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After the first application of spra strip 95% of the paint was gone, some areas took a second application and removal. After the paint is removed I washed the surface with laquer thinner to remove the residue.

I'm telling you guys.........this stuff works, I don't know about the razor blade, I think you would leave gouges behind, With the plastic spackle knifes it's fool proof, you can't gouge the surface.

I was a skeptic before I tried it. As I said I had the media blaster lined up and thought I'd give it a shot first.........And I'm glad I did

B
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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Someone else has to have an opinion on it. Anyone?
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 76mike
Someone else has to have an opinion on it. Anyone?
don't know the stuff
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 10:59 PM
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I started the razor blade method. I've got the technique down after doing about 2/3 of the back deck. Very slow going for me though. there are 2 coats of paint and primer on the car. top coat peels right off. however the spiderwebbing goes right thru both layers down to the gel so i have to take off everything. definately have some gouges that will need fixed. going to check into this spra strip stuff.
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Old Nov 15, 2005 | 11:54 PM
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Hey Butch,
What did it do to the filler in the seams?
vic
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:39 AM
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Anyone have any opinions on the "Aircraft Remover" by Kleen Strip? I have a friend who has used it on several of his vettes including even a Baldwin Phase III and he has had great success with it. It is cheap enough, and readily available at most major parts stores.

I must admit I am amused by the name though...sounds as if this product would turn any amateur magician into Houdini !

Last edited by LS-Five; Nov 16, 2005 at 01:20 AM.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:41 AM
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Default Citru-strip

I just finished using Citri-strip. The have it at Lowes and Home Depot. A LOT less caustic then some other products I've used. I took a part of my broken front valence and let the stuff soak on it for several days- and it didn't breakdown the glass. And this stuff works as good and as fast as the Jasco-remove the hairs on your arms- stuff I used on the metal parts.

Rather than the razor blades- I used the plastic scraper -I bought a dozen of them and woked out really well.

Have fun-

Richard
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 76mike
I know that most of you out there refuse to use a chemical stripper because it can stay in the fiberglass and all,

this means bull sheeeet..used chemical stripper on mine, and will use it again and again and again

Used Bix, another one, but more expensive is Capt Lee's.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by VETTEVIC
Hey Butch,
What did it do to the filler in the seams?
vic

To tell you the truth, it did nothing...though i stopped at the factory red oxide primer...saw no need to strip the factory primer.
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 08:37 AM
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I've stripped mine completely twice and miscellaneous parts quite a few times afterwards. I've always used Spray n Strip and have never had a problem. Take a look here
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page9.htm
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 10:42 AM
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Does anyone have any idea what the chemical strippers do to any bondo or other repair fillers that are under the paint your stripping?
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by supervette77
Does anyone have any idea what the chemical strippers do to any bondo or other repair fillers that are under the paint your stripping?

Strippers will make the bondo soft, but you don't want bondo on the vette...
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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If you have bondo on your car you have a poor repair. All the bondo should be removed and the defect should be repaired with fiberglass mat and resin. If you need bondo to perfect the repair it should only be used as a thin skim coat and then sanded smooth leaving just a small amount.
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