Hi,

I have a 68 427 roadster the a-arm bushings are shot. I have just bought a set of energy poly bushings and need help. I have removed the control arms from the car, now, how do I remove the bushings and replace the new ones? The haynes manual says use a cap screw??? If anyone has any advise please let me hear it.

hacksaw

68 roadster 4spd 427
80 L-48 4spd

 

I put the cross shaft in a vise and then used an air chisle with a sharp paddle type bit to press them off.
Use the sharp edge to start to seperate it, then come in at a angle to press them out. make sure it's in the vise tight because you really need to lean on it. Also you can push on the inner part of the bushing from the backside, just lift the backside of the rubber up off the cross shaft a hair and you will see it. With this method it only took me 25-30 seconds a bushing, but others here have not had such good luck and have had to drill or burn the bushings out.
Good luck.
Greg.

 

Hi,

The cross shaft is still attached to the control arm correct? I will try it tommorow. I still dont know what a cap screw is, the manual dosnt really cover how to get them off it just says use a cap screw and remove the bushings, yea right, Man these bad boys are on there. They are soaking in PB Blaster right now. thanks

 

Correct.
If you dont have an air chisle you can pick up a cheap one for under 20 bucks. Hopefully you have air.

 

You can also burn them out with a torch (soldering torch). This takes a while and is a little messy. Place it in something metal (I've used an oven basting pan for this). Another way is to drill holes in the rubber bushings and then use a heavy hammer and chiesel to remove what's left. You should clean and repaint them if you want them to look good.

 

Hi,

I've got a chisle and air. I re-read your post and it makes sense to me now thanks for the help. if this doesnt do it I will burn them out. I will then need a press to put the new ones in wont I? I have access to one its just a little aggravating to drive over to my in-laws (god love'em) and ask for "gulp" a favor.

 

Actually, you can use a vise to push them in. I've used a front wheel bearing to push against. Be sure to clean the inside of the a-arm (bushing seat) and lube the area well before pushing the bushing in. Also, do not tighten them up until the wheels are on the ground or you'll ruin them.

 

I must take issue with using a torch to remove the bushings.....Why on earth would you put heat to these steering components???? You may well destroy the temper (elasticity and strength) of the A-arm ends. You may well warp them as well. You are expanding and then shrinking them. And to top it off, you've burnt all the paint off and now have to deal with cleaning and repainting them.
I have also seen what damage incompetent (or perhaps inexperienced) use of an air chisel can do. No thank you.

Use a hole saw, I believe it's 1 1/8" but I don't recall exactly now. Chuck it up in your hand drill with no pilot bit. It makes short work of the rubber. (If you don't have a hole saw, use a small drill bit to drill many concentric holes through the rubber as close together as possible, then wiggle it around a bit (don't break it) to remove more rubber. Stick a coarse hacksaw blade in now and saw out the remaining bits.) Inner sleeves and shaft fall out now.
Now assemble the hacksaw with the blade inside the outer sleeve and cut two grooves, opposite each other, ALMOST BUT NOT QUITE through the sleeve. Remove saw and cut the flange clear through at the grooves.
Take a cold chisel and smacko! on the grooves and the bushing collapses and comes right out. That easy.

I did my complete set of upper and lower control arms in less than 2 hours using this method, including the installation of new rubber bushings. What's that, 15 minutes each?

OK, I feel better now that I've shared.

John

 

I used a press, and the directions in a Chilton manual, and fabed up the proper assembly tool, and had them changed in about 1-1/2 hours which included fabing the tool.

PS. My in laws come to me to ask for favors Especially when they break something.

DR. Jay

 

What page is that tool on? Ive got a chiltons manual I think I will make one and go that route. Also will a puller get this thing out I can get a loner from autozone. Thanks for all of the help I plan on tackling a couple of the a frames tommorow.

John

 

With all due respect, please refer to:

http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/comquest.html

See item #6

 

So? Wouldn't be the first time I've seen someone who should know better giving bad advice.

 

Not to beat a dead horse, but do you really think a corporation would publish such a procedure that could subject itself to a major law suit, in the event the part in question failed and created a catatrophic accident, if it were unsafe?

 

Just visiting from C2 section.... actually put a arms from my 66 in my out door gas grill for 20 minutes at medium heat .>>>took out assembly & the bushings were charcoall & just disolved....strange but tru & worked for me,,,,,the Dog

 

I've certainly seen dumber things done. Ford Pinto memo, anyone?