I've been ripping the carpet out of my '69 coupe today.

I've got a coupe of holes in the floor that I need to fix:



and:



When I get the holes fixed, I plan on putting down a layer of reflectix and then new carpeting.

Under the old carpet:



I found some under padding/insulation:



Then under the padding I found pieces of this material:



It appears to be almost like very heavy tar paper. It looks original, as it appears to be cut to fit.

Question1: Do I need additional padding/insulation under the new carpet, in addition to the reflectix?

Question2: What's the tar paper like stuff? Insulation, sound barrier? Should I put it back?

TIA

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the process should be as follows:

1. Sound deadening ( Dynomat, B-Quiet, Brown Bread, etc.)
2. Heat Barrier (Reflectix etc.)
2. Carpet (which usually included jute backing)

Number 1 & 2 are optional, but I recommend it.

 

That looks like thick tar matting in the 3rd pic - I can identify one piece on the bottom right that looks to be for the heater core under the dash area. Were those pieces under the seats and floorboard and center brake area? That seems like it would have been really think and hard to fit the carpet.

I am curious about the order of layering of insulations upon re-install too. What are ya'll doing in the doors?

Last - I will be re-instaling my complete interior once mine is finished being painted. Will contact ya for advice...

 

That is how I did my 63 Coupe - It helps a lot, but my feet still cook on warm summer days (C2s are notorious for that).

Good luck.

 

I did the same in my 75 also and it really helped.The only heat problem I have now is from behind the seat causing my back to sweat.

 

Just did my '76 last summer. Great improvement using Reflectix. I had to get rid of rust on mine but yours is all glass so easier to fix. My hole in the drivers' side floor by the belt bolt was the size of yours.

I got Reflectix and aluminum tape (at Lowes $25 or so) and did the whole car. The only thing I wish I'd done and I intend to still do, is put sound insulation under there. Do not expect Reflectix to get rid of the noise.

It will however, get your feet and the inside of the car cool again!



Por15 on the Rust:

Final;

Amp behind Seat:

 

I did this last year. The sound deadener goes down first. I used FATMAT. It's like Dynomat, but a little cheaper. It has adhesive on one side...the side that goes down, and a layer of aluminum on the top side to give some heat reflection...it makes an incredble difference in the sound in my 71...especially on the doors, engine noise through the front bulkhead and road noise through the floors and wheel wells...Here's pics:




on top of the FATMAT, I put FROSTKING (available at Home Depot as a home A/C duct insulation)...I used this because it is adhesive on the down side and is a foam topped with the aluminum reflective layer. I felt the foam would hold up better than the REFLECTIX 'bubble ' layer...time will tell. I put this on top of the FATMAT. Here's pics:




As you can see I put both sound deadener and heat shield everywhere...including the storage bins in the back.
On top of the FATMAT and the FROSTKING, I put carpet with the jute backing. Here's the finished pics:


The sound deadener, heatshield, and carpet with jute backing all fit fine under the console and other interior parts.

I live in S. Georgia, and can drive barefoot in the summer....

The lessoning of 'noise'..both in just the 'sound' of the door closing to the road sound is incredible. This, coupled with the change to a 200r4 overdrive, have made the car a great 'driver', and, I think, is a must do for anyone that drives their car much.

 

Interesting, I would have thought that the heat barrier(reflectix) should go down first, then the sound barrier.

Any problems with condensation build up under your heat barrier?

Dave

 

when doing the interior restore on my '73, i put down two layers of sound barrier then a heat barrier. i used herculiner (roll on truck bed) as the first sound barrier layer. you can get this at any auto parts store. i followed that up with a rubber mat that was held in place with another coat of herculiner. you can get the rubber matting at home depot, lowes, etc. it's basically a non-slip shelf liner. then i used reflectix for the heat barrier. this i also got at lowes, home depot, etc in the plumbing insulation aisle. there is a noticeable difference in both quietness and temperature, but don't expect to achieve modern car interior compartment attributes entirely.

before application of first layer of sound barrier:


after application of herculiner and rubber mat


after application of reflectix

 

1mollyd,
No condensation problems...both the sound deadener and the heat shield have a VERY 'tacky' adhesive. A small roller is used to get air bubbles out from under them and to insure complete adhesion to the surface below them.
The sound deadener is put down first because it must be applied to the panels that can vibrate and, by vibrating, conduct sound...like the fiberglass floors, and the metal interior skins on the doors and the fiberglass wheel wells, etc. The deadener stops the panels from vibrating (not totally, but reduces it a lot)...by reducing the vibration you've reduced the panel's ability to conduct the sound waves produced by engine, or wheel or air 'noise'. That is why it is extremely important to get the sound deadener totally in contact with the panel you're covering. Any areas where there isn't complete adhesion are areas that are susceptible to vibrating and, therefore, conducting the sound waves into the interior.
Brian

 

Makes sense.

Thanks.

Dave