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You'll need two jack stands and two C-clamps. Place the C-lamps close to the end of the spring and jack the rear up. Now place the jackstands next to the C-clamps under the rear spring. Let the car's weight down on the spring and jackstands, for additional safety place wooden blocks or another two jackstands under the frame so the car doesn't fall if the C-clamps slip (not likely but possible)
Now remove the spring bolts, the cushions and the cups. The entire set is only around $30 so I'd replace these parts.
Most likely your cushions are shot, that's why the driver's side appears lower.
With new parts and the spring bolts adjusted to the same length/height your problem should be solved.
Did you check your camber ? If the strut rod bushings are worn the rear wheel tilts inwards at the top - this can also make one side sit lower.
Forgot to mention that the previous owner replaced the bushings and rear spring and new bolts etc... I'll check to make sure ALL the bushings were indeed replaced.
One item I did notice immediately was that the driver side was tightened down more than the passenger side - there was more thread showing on the driver side - about 1.5 inches more than the passenger side. I backed off the driver side and made the thread showing even but it still sits lower on the driver side....
Forgot to mention that the previous owner replaced the bushings and rear spring and new bolts etc... I'll check to make sure ALL the bushings were indeed replaced.
One item I did notice immediately was that the driver side was tightened down more than the passenger side - there was more thread showing on the driver side - about 1.5 inches more than the passenger side. I backed off the driver side and made the thread showing even but it still sits lower on the driver side....
You're saying the drivers side is lower and the previous owner tightened that bolt more than the passenger's side - that shows that he had the same problem (he noticed it and tried to correct it). when you tighten the driver's side bolt so that more thread is showing below the nut then you're raising that side. Longer bolts will lower it. 1.5" difference on the threads left to right is a lot
With all new hardware your rear should be even....Maybe the spring is not centered ???
There's definately something fishy, when you re-adjusted you should have lowered the driver's side another inch - you did not see much of a difference when you loosened that driver's side bolt ?
when you tighten the driver's side bolt so that more thread is showing below the nut then you're raising that side.
If I'm tightening the bolt on the drivers side, more thread is showing below this towards the road, shouldn't it be compressing the spring on that side thus lowering the car?? Am I confused?
yes it's confusing (a little) - look at it this way: if you tighten or shorten the bolt you're shortening the distance between spring and the trailing arm. The spring always stays where it's at, the weight of the car doesn't change so you're not compressing the spring more by tightening the bolt.
Basically you're pulling the trailing arm down by tightening that bolt, which increases the gap between fender and wheel...
I am sure there's a better way to describe this which is then easier to understand