How do I use the Mighty Mite to bleed the brakes? I have one but no instuctions...do I just connect it to the farthest bleeder valve from the master cylinder and pump the fluid out until their are no bubbles....sound too simple?

 

You need a bleeder can. This is generally a small clear container-smaller than a 12oz drink can. It has 2 tubes. You start with about an inch of brake fluid in the can. the tube from the caliper bleeder extends below the fluid level. the tube from the pump just goes into the top of the can. Pull a vacuum on the can and crack a bleed screw. Close the screw before all vacuum is lost. I start at front left, front right, rear left, rear right. The rear ones have 2 bleed screws.

All that said, gravity bleeding worked better for me on this car.

 

He's right on with the mightvac it self, and yeah you bleed till you have clear fluid coming out the caliper. The oly this i would say different from a procedure point is to start at the wheel furthest from the master cylender first and move closer, i.e rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver. the other opstion is the get a set of bleeder screws with a ball and spring in them. their called speed bleeder and ar a nice to have when you wrench alone!

check out this web site for details

http://www.speedbleeder.com/






tim

 

The mighty-Vac--install little hose on the bleeder fitting, open bleeder, and squeeze the trigger/handle until it draws fluid into the cup.

Pressure bleeders are more efficient, faster, and easier to use...the vac systems sometimes dont seal over the fitting properly...leading to a weak draw of fluid. Vac systems sometimes leaves air in the system; reason being, the draw doesnt always remove all air.

If you do get the Vac system to draw fluid...once you are done and have had fluid reach finaly reach the bleeder and you think you are done...lightly tap the calipers with a hammer with intentions of getting air bubbles to the top of the caliper where the bleeder fitting is.

Also; you may want to check:
1 none of the brake lines have collapsed internally
2 none of the steel brake lines leading to the rear has been smashed somehow...restricting fluid flow to the rear.

Before I got my 79; "Bubba's Tires-N-Bra's" r/r'd the rear calipers and used the mighty-vac system to bleed the brakes for the previous owner...I got the car with a low spongy brake pedal.

I used the Motive pressure bleeder...I tapped the calipers...bled brakes starting with the inside bleeder, working to the two outside bleeders on the rear...and I was able to remove ALL the air from the system. The stock brakes stop on a dime and give a buck-fifty change.


Good luck, and do it for right for safety's sake.



Jim

Although the tutorial listed below is listed for a motor-cycle bleeding tool; it *can* work on auto's...I just dont like them for multi-piston, multi-caliper per disc auto's...but thats just me.

Tutorial On How To Use Mighty Vac Bleeder

 

ok, did some reading on the pressure vacs...going to take my weed killer bottle and thread a valve stem in so I can read pressure (10lbs), the other end will go to a donor master cylinder cap that has another motorcycle type valve threaded and sealed. I should be able to pump the bottle up to 10 psi and push the fluid thru the system... anyone see why this won't work?

I have plenty of valves, bottles and tubing, but sometime lack common sense.......