No problems here either
Lifting Car
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
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Lifting Car
What is the best way to jack up a Corvette? I'v seen several methods, which one is correct? I will also be using jack stands.
I plan on rebuilding all 4 brake callipers and rotors w/new pad and bleeding.
I plan on rebuilding all 4 brake callipers and rotors w/new pad and bleeding.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 2,486
From: Buckeye, AZ
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
On the frame just behind the front wheel and just ahead of the back. Jack one side and stand then the other. This is how I have done my brake jobs. BE AWARE.......C3 Vettes do not bleed like normal cars. the sequence is LR, RR, LF, RF. If you do it by the traditional farthese to closest method, you will not get a hard pedal.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Breckenridge Colorado
Originally Posted by gliot1
On the frame just behind the front wheel and just ahead of the back. Jack one side and stand then the other. This is how I have done my brake jobs. BE AWARE.......C3 Vettes do not bleed like normal cars. the sequence is LR, RR, LF, RF. If you do it by the traditional farthese to closest method, you will not get a hard pedal.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
ive jacked my vette up on many diffrent angles and cant say ive ever notice the glass flex like some people say.
ive had both the complete passenger side up in the air, then complete driverse side, the front end up on ramps for a couple of months. ive open and closed the doors on it countless times like that and never came across that problem.
ive had both the complete passenger side up in the air, then complete driverse side, the front end up on ramps for a couple of months. ive open and closed the doors on it countless times like that and never came across that problem.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
See gliot1's post above, he tells you where to jack it up.
I have also placed the jack on the frame just under the center of the door (by the crossmember) and jacked the entire side at once which allows me to place jack stands just in front of the rear wheel and just behind the front wheel as gliot1 suggested.
I have also read many posts on this forum that claim that opening doors and removing t-tops is not necessary. I think this may be one of those urban legends that gets repeated and takes on validity as a result. If your frame flexes that much you have big problems. I have been jacking my 68 coupe from the front, side, back, you name it for the last 33 years and never opened doors or removed t-tops before jacking. No flexing, no cracked glass or paint.
Just my 2 cents,
I have also placed the jack on the frame just under the center of the door (by the crossmember) and jacked the entire side at once which allows me to place jack stands just in front of the rear wheel and just behind the front wheel as gliot1 suggested.
I have also read many posts on this forum that claim that opening doors and removing t-tops is not necessary. I think this may be one of those urban legends that gets repeated and takes on validity as a result. If your frame flexes that much you have big problems. I have been jacking my 68 coupe from the front, side, back, you name it for the last 33 years and never opened doors or removed t-tops before jacking. No flexing, no cracked glass or paint.
Just my 2 cents,
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 359
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From: Shoemakersville Pa
Originally Posted by gliot1
On the frame just behind the front wheel and just ahead of the back. Jack one side and stand then the other. This is how I have done my brake jobs. BE AWARE.......C3 Vettes do not bleed like normal cars. the sequence is LR, RR, LF, RF. If you do it by the traditional farthese to closest method, you will not get a hard pedal.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2003
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I have found the best way to jack a C3 without any worry about flexing, is to jack up the front under the front crossmember (us a 2x4 between the jack pad and crossmember) and place jackstands under the lower shock mount. Then jack up the back under the strut rod support (again using a 2x4 between the jack pad and car). Place the rear jack stands on the frame rails aft the door and forward of the rear kick-up.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 86
From: Putnam county NY
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
No problems here either. I think if these cars flexed as much as we worry about them flexing, they'd be made of rubber.
The frame is beefier than probably most cars of that era!
The frame is beefier than probably most cars of that era!
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,269
Likes: 3
From: St. Charles IL
Cruise-In 5-6-7-8-9-11-12 Veteran
A CI-6 Car Show Winner
Originally Posted by 70vert
I have found the best way to jack a C3 without any worry about flexing, is to jack up the front under the front crossmember (us a 2x4 between the jack pad and crossmember) and place jackstands under the lower shock mount. Then jack up the back under the strut rod support (again using a 2x4 between the jack pad and car). Place the rear jack stands on the frame rails aft the door and forward of the rear kick-up.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 3
From: Burlington WI
Oh no...............
Originally Posted by blue by you
Don't forget to open the doors and T- tops glass does flex alot
YOUR frame must be pretty rotten if it flexes that much.
Personally my 78 is pretty solid.
Incidently the FRAME is made of STEEL and the BODY is made of FIBERGLASSS.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Mason MI 82-93-04CE
What the heck. It only takes a sec to loosen the glass tops. I never noticed any flex, but why take a chance - especially if it's going to be up and uneven for a while. I imagine some of the hills and turns I've taken at speed flexed things a lot more than jacking up one side or the other would have. My frame is so stiff that the front tire almost comes off the ground when I jack from the frame in front of the rear tire.
I managed to find a couple of small hydraulic floor jacks that I can slip behind the rear tires and place on the shock absorber mounts. It's tight but allows me to get the tires off the ground without raising the body so high. I go back and forth and do a little on each side if I go higher before putting jackstands under the normal frame lift points. I've never read about anyone using the rear shock mounts, so I hope that's not abusing anything.
I managed to find a couple of small hydraulic floor jacks that I can slip behind the rear tires and place on the shock absorber mounts. It's tight but allows me to get the tires off the ground without raising the body so high. I go back and forth and do a little on each side if I go higher before putting jackstands under the normal frame lift points. I've never read about anyone using the rear shock mounts, so I hope that's not abusing anything.