Differential cover removal procedure
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 188
Likes: 2
From: Flowermound Tx
Differential cover removal procedure
Am getting ready to replace the seal on the differential cover. Could someone describe the steps for removing the frame cross member and the cover ? It looks like the differential is partially supported by the crossmember so would I have to support it before removal ..??
Thanks for your help!!
Thanks for your help!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
From: Philo Illinois
I just removed my differential from my 73, it's not a bad job at all. The hardest part is getting the crossmember to drop from the frame. I took my spring off, the drive shaft and half shafts, then loosened the crossmember bolts, leaving them in a few threads. One side of mine came loose using a pry bar, the other side I used a gear puller and clamped it onto the crossmember and pushed against the bolt holding that side in, leave a floor jack or some other means of supporting the rear end in place so it doesn't come loose and crash to the floor. It's really not too bad of a job. Then you can take the differential loose from the crossmember. It's also a good time to replace the pinion seal and axle seals.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 166
Likes: 23
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
After I loosened the bolts on the cross member, I made sure they were still in 3-4 turns so that once the cross member popped loose, the bolts would still hold it up. I went to Auto Zone and they loan tools. I borrowed a 2-3 jaw gear puller and set it up in the 2 x jaw configuration. (Harbor freight also sells these for about $6)
I put the jaws on each side of the cross member and the center bolt pin directly on the bolt holding the cross member. Couple turns and it popped loose.
I had spent nearly an hour trying with a crow bar and then tried the gear puller. Go with the gear puller, you'll be done in a matter of minutes.
Drop the Diff and the crossmember together, be sure to use a floor jack and be ready to balance it as you let it down slowly
Good luck
Swede
I put the jaws on each side of the cross member and the center bolt pin directly on the bolt holding the cross member. Couple turns and it popped loose.
I had spent nearly an hour trying with a crow bar and then tried the gear puller. Go with the gear puller, you'll be done in a matter of minutes.
Drop the Diff and the crossmember together, be sure to use a floor jack and be ready to balance it as you let it down slowly
Good luck
Swede
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 365
Likes: 1
From: Glenview IL
Originally Posted by SwedeAWACS
After I loosened the bolts on the cross member, I made sure they were still in 3-4 turns so that once the cross member popped loose, the bolts would still hold it up. I went to Auto Zone and they loan tools. I borrowed a 2-3 jaw gear puller and set it up in the 2 x jaw configuration. (Harbor freight also sells these for about $6)
I put the jaws on each side of the cross member and the center bolt pin directly on the bolt holding the cross member. Couple turns and it popped loose.
I had spent nearly an hour trying with a crow bar and then tried the gear puller. Go with the gear puller, you'll be done in a matter of minutes.
Drop the Diff and the crossmember together, be sure to use a floor jack and be ready to balance it as you let it down slowly
Good luck
Swede
I put the jaws on each side of the cross member and the center bolt pin directly on the bolt holding the cross member. Couple turns and it popped loose.
I had spent nearly an hour trying with a crow bar and then tried the gear puller. Go with the gear puller, you'll be done in a matter of minutes.
Drop the Diff and the crossmember together, be sure to use a floor jack and be ready to balance it as you let it down slowly
Good luck
Swede
Did the 2-jaw puller thing last weekend. Worked like a charm. Had the crossmember out in a matter of minutes.~Rich
