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"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
Dynamat to the body floor... 3M used to attach Reflectex to the Dynamat then just layed the carpet in... really glad I did it this way as I've had to remove the carpet a few times todo additional work....would have been a mess if I had glued the carpet down. Here are some shots.
dynomax has a sticky side and when u lay it all down, use a heat gun and go ove r it and heat it upa bit and press harder....makes a better bond.... don't glue the carpet down....... if you need to, just a few squirts here and there for vertical areas..
80TexasC3... did you have any trouble re-installing the door panels with the Dynamat on the doors?? For some reason, I was going to attmempt to put it on the inside (against the fiberglass). Needless to say, I was going to do it in strips... advise?? Thanks!
Frost King is probably the thickest of all those mentioned, and it's just 1/8 inch thick. Since I had zero problems during re-installation - I would think that Dynamat and it's variations (since they're even thinner than FK) should pose no problems at all.
i still have to do my doors in dynomat but if it seems too thick, u can by the spray under body coating or spray dyno and just tape off it all and do it that way.....
Reflectix is pretty thick. At least as thick as Frost King...if not thicker.
I laid down two layers (one Dynamat, and one Reflectix) and had NO problem putting in my new Al Knoch carpet. I was careful not to put anything on areas that has known close tolerances, though. An example would be the rear compartment frame.
I put down Fatmat (sound deadener) first...it is a Dynomat clone...one side is self-adhesive and one side is foil....on top of that I put Frost king which also has a self adhesive side and a foil side...didn't use any glue for the carpet...had no fitment issues with carpet or console pieces...I also put the Fatmat on the doors...new door panels went on with no problems:
Before anything:
After the Fatmat on the door (which makes a real difference in the sound of the door closing and road sound coming in:
Fatmat everywhere:
Frost King on top:
Finished project:
At least two of the posts said that they laid down Dynamat followed by Reflectix. Should'nt the heat barrier be first, then the sound deadener? It seems you would want to reflect as much heat as possible before it soaks into the asphalt based Dynamat. Am I overlooking something when it comes to the logistics of installing the two products, or did you guys just decide it would'nt make much of a difference or is there another reason? Im installing both products this weekend so Im trying to get a plan together.
Sound deadener (of any kind) works by dampening the vibrations in the floor, door, wheel well, etc. panels. The vibrations are created by 'noise' outside the car, or in some cases caused by the vibration of a panel (door, for example) when it is closed. So, if you stop the panel from being able to vibrate, you stop the passage of sound through it. That is why Dynomat, etc. emphasizes that you get it 'down' (stuck) to the panel with no air gaps...the better you do getting it down, the more noise suppression...that's why it must go down first AGAINST the panels.
Ideally, the Dynamat would go on the panel inside and the heat barrier would go on the panel OUTside (where the heat is, presumably). There are a couple of us who used products like "Zero Clearance" in that way. Reflectix won't take the abuse of an exterior installation.