New engine pictures
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
New engine pictures
Everyone always wants to see new engine pictures. Does not look any different than my old one but should produce more power. Trial fit the headers today. There was some slag left in the holes. Much easier to do it on the stand than in the car. It is getting there, dingy valve covers and all.
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Race Director
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From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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Looks cool/ I like the intake bolts...where did you get them?
JIM
JIM
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Looks cool/ I like the intake bolts...where did you get them?
JIM
JIM
The engine specs are in my signature.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
vroom vroom......looks good, what are those tapped holes on the side of the Demon for? are those mounting locations for vacuum secondaries? I have the vacuum secondaries so i'm guessing thats why i have never noticed those before
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
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From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by Gordonm
One of the Industrial distributers that I work with is a bolt distributer. They are Stainless Steel button heads. I was wondering if anyone was going to pick up on them. They are not a very common bolt.
The engine specs are in my signature.
The engine specs are in my signature.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 3
From: East Waterboro Maine
That motor looks awesome! 
I believe your referring to the phenomenon called "galvanic corrosion" which has been discussed at length here on the forum.
Essentially, all metals have different electrical potentials, some act as anodes (active metals) while others act as cathodes (passive metals). If two metals with reasonably dissimilar potentials are placed in contact with one another in the presence of an electrolyte (water, especially salt water), electrons will transfer from the active metal into the passive metal. This transfer of electrons results in the deterioration of the active material.
In the case of Stainless Steel and Aluminum, they are fairly dissimilar metals with aluminum being the sacrifical metal. However, what's missing in the case of a car engine is the constant presence of moisture. Although the engine may get wet occassionally, the heat from the engine drys the water before any substantial deterioration occurs. The two metals would have to remain wetted for quite a long time (probably years) before any substantial deterioration occured.
Just My $0.02, but I probably just re-opened a can of worms...
Originally Posted by Perfomer
The stainless bolts are good but I have heard that they will gauld when they are used in aluminium . Something about the threads being very sharp.
Essentially, all metals have different electrical potentials, some act as anodes (active metals) while others act as cathodes (passive metals). If two metals with reasonably dissimilar potentials are placed in contact with one another in the presence of an electrolyte (water, especially salt water), electrons will transfer from the active metal into the passive metal. This transfer of electrons results in the deterioration of the active material.
In the case of Stainless Steel and Aluminum, they are fairly dissimilar metals with aluminum being the sacrifical metal. However, what's missing in the case of a car engine is the constant presence of moisture. Although the engine may get wet occassionally, the heat from the engine drys the water before any substantial deterioration occurs. The two metals would have to remain wetted for quite a long time (probably years) before any substantial deterioration occured.
Just My $0.02, but I probably just re-opened a can of worms...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
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From: Park Ridge IL
Antiseize or a moly based thread lube (I use the ARP brand)will do the trick. We use stainless steel fasteners almost exclusively on offshore powerboats where hot, humid, salt water conditions are common and it will go a long way in preventing the stainless fastener from stripping or damaging the aluminum receiver component. Thread lube should always be used with stainless fasteners.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 3
From: East Waterboro Maine
Originally Posted by Monty
Thread lube should always be used with stainless fasteners.
, good point. Although significant corrosion is unlikely occur some minor deterioration will occur. The result is a powdery residue that can bind up the bolt threads. Thread lube will go a long way in preventing and mitigating this issue.