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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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Default Water pump

Well, it was the first nice day of the year. I figured I would take the vette out for a ride. When I put it away last year I put all new hoses on and a new heater core. I drove it around for a couple of miles. I then put it away for the winter. I was driving for about five miles and I thought I heard a whining noise. I got home and went to put away the car. I reved up the engine and heard the noise. It sounded like the water pump. I opened the hood and it was leaking onto the crank pully and spraying around. Now I want to keep it original. The new pumps do not look like the original ones. I could get my original rebuilt, but I do not want to go through crawling around on the floor trying to drain the system.
Does anyone know where to get a original stamped pump for a 70 350/300? Also, does anyone know what the stamping should read? Maybe I can find one on ebay and get it rebuild and that way the garage can remove mine and install the rebuilt one.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 06:42 PM
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Check this out:

http://www.bbbautomotive-fuel-inject...y/Corvette.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...44539848QQrdZ1

Last edited by rihwoods; Mar 11, 2006 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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i wonder if you were careful if you bought a new pump and gutted it and put all the pieces into your casting? wonder how hard that would be???
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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I don't quite get what you mean by crawling around on the floor while changing the pump. You can change the pump from up top. You have to drain the same amount of fluid weather you are changing it out to a new one or rebuilding the old one. It is a very easy job to do.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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I haven't changed the pump in my vette yet but did look over the procedures in Chiltons manual today..... but did swap out the water pump in my Bronco II on Friday, man the fan was a pia to get off, had to get a strap wrench on the pulley and then the fan is reverse threaded on the pump and my cresent wrench was a bit too small so I have to use a set of pipe pliers, holding onto the two was a knuckle buster. That alone took about 30 mins to finally get it off. Guess I need to start lifting more weights....and get some better tools!
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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they sell a tool especially for ford fans like that. i didnt buy one of those, but if you need the tool to take the ignition module off, lemme know. i got a couple of them in my too box...
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I don't quite get what you mean by crawling around on the floor while changing the pump. You can change the pump from up top. You have to drain the same amount of fluid weather you are changing it out to a new one or rebuilding the old one. It is a very easy job to do.
You got to crawl under to drain the whole system. The last time I did that I could not open the drain for fear it might break. I then had to cut a hose because it was frozen to the rad to drain.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 08:09 PM
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I have seen two on ebay. One has a date code of C-18-0. the other is G-25-0. My car is a july car, but the engine would have to have been built earlier. Would the C-18-0 be March 18,1970? If so that would be a good number. I tried to see mine but couldn't, so I am usure if this even matters. I guess as long as it has the correct shape it should be ok. Here is a pic of the pump, Maybe someone can read it, I know I can't. It is upside down if that helps

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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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when i did my pump, i went to harbor freight and bought a small hand transfer pump and sucked out as much antifreeze as i could with it. it made the mes a lot smaller than it could have been...
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 70Donnybrooke
You got to crawl under to drain the whole system. The last time I did that I could not open the drain for fear it might break. I then had to cut a hose because it was frozen to the rad to drain.
OK. If you did not mind the mess just remove the pump and the fluid will drain itself. It makes a he$$ of a mess but you do not have to drain the rad. I would not do it this way but I have seen it done many times like this.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Aflac
when i did my pump, i went to harbor freight and bought a small hand transfer pump and sucked out as much antifreeze as i could with it. it made the mes a lot smaller than it could have been...

That's a good idea.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I don't quite get what you mean by crawling around on the floor while changing the pump.



Having recently done a water pump change, you're gonna have to crawl around on the ground to drain fluid out. If you don't want to do that, you can always try to take the pump off without draining the fluids, start pulling the water pump, and watch it spill all over the garage floor and engine. Doing that poses an environmental hazard and also can be poisonous to family pets, not to mention making the car smell like maple syrup for a while, until the spilled coolant cooks off...

If you really want to keep the pump original, and don't want something else, start looking at either a junkyard or to have yours rebuilt.
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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Bet a submarine sailor could do it without spilling a drop...
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 70Donnybrooke
That's a good idea.
always been a huge fan of the "work smarter, not harder" mentality
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Aflac
i wonder if you were careful if you bought a new pump and gutted it and put all the pieces into your casting? wonder how hard that would be???
I have seen Zip sells a rebuild kit. The only problem is you need a hydraulic press to press in the shaft. I guess I got to find a shop to rebuild it. I will go tomorrow and get that pump though.
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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just about any reputable auto[arts store with a machine shop will have one..
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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they sell a tool especially for ford fans like that. i didnt buy one of those, but if you need the tool to take the ignition module off, lemme know. i got a couple of them in my too box...
Thanks for the offer
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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Well, I got the water pump off today. It was not nearly as a pain as I thought it would be. I got that transfer pump and pumped out the radiator fluid. There was still a lot of that Bars Stop that I had in there from my heater core leak. I now see the date on it is D122. Which would make me think it is from a 72. The only problem with that is I think that they had different water pumps in 72. Does anyone know if that is true? If that date code is for 72 I might as well buy the rebuild one on ebay with a 70 date code. It would be less expensive. A rebuild kit for my pump is in the 60 dollar range. The one on ebay is the same price plus shipping.
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 05:20 PM
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Do you show your car? When my water pump gave out a while back I just put an Edelbrock aluminum one there. It's a lot lighter and works great. But then I'm not really concerned with the NCRS police.
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rcread
Do you show your car? When my water pump gave out a while back I just put an Edelbrock aluminum one there. It's a lot lighter and works great. But then I'm not really concerned with the NCRS police.

Yes.
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