Those with big blocks - some questions
Well, my barely running (small block) engine may have died. Got back and there was oil EVERYWHERE. The oil filter was covered as well as the oil pan. Hoping it was just something catastrophic with the oil filter, but I won't be surprised if it's done for. Will find out when I get a chance this weekend.
This however moves up the priority of a new motor! I've always lusted for a big block put together with my own hands. I was planning to start building up a big block in the fall, but I might start sooner and will need to really start thinking about it. I know a few big-block nay-sayers which harp on cooling cooling cooling, I'll overheat, it'll break often, it'll overheat, it'll overheat. Those of you with big blocks, have you found good cooling solutions and how much of a worry is overheating really to you?
Also, I was planning on redoing the suspension before I made the motor swap, but I may do it afterwards or during. Are there any major concerns suspension-wise that I should worry about that I wouldn't with a small block?
Thanks!
B
This however moves up the priority of a new motor! I've always lusted for a big block put together with my own hands. I was planning to start building up a big block in the fall, but I might start sooner and will need to really start thinking about it. I know a few big-block nay-sayers which harp on cooling cooling cooling, I'll overheat, it'll break often, it'll overheat, it'll overheat. Those of you with big blocks, have you found good cooling solutions and how much of a worry is overheating really to you?
Also, I was planning on redoing the suspension before I made the motor swap, but I may do it afterwards or during. Are there any major concerns suspension-wise that I should worry about that I wouldn't with a small block?
Thanks!
B
Suspension "requires" stouter springs up front to hanle the extra pounds.
Cooling problems? What's that? I'm running a 427 +.060 with iron heads, headers, and factory water pump. It never EVER gets even CLOSE to overheating. I've checked it with a laser themometer in several locations and it never breaks 190.
It was idling with the hood down just twenty minutes ago. I was wiping it down after a wash. It probably idled like that for fifteen or twenty minutes. Not a tick over normal.
All my spoilers, baffles, and gaskets related to the cooling system are IN PLACE.
I'm using the DeWitts perfect fit aluminum rad with dual SPAL fans and a Stant 180 stat. No overflow or expansion bottle, either, so the cooling system has plenty of air in it.
The only issues I seem to have regularly are burnt plug boots and I'm taking care of that with boot socks and header wrap. It's only an issue because of the 2 1/8" header primaries. My family has been running big blocks since about 1967. We've never had any problems.
Cooling problems? What's that? I'm running a 427 +.060 with iron heads, headers, and factory water pump. It never EVER gets even CLOSE to overheating. I've checked it with a laser themometer in several locations and it never breaks 190.
It was idling with the hood down just twenty minutes ago. I was wiping it down after a wash. It probably idled like that for fifteen or twenty minutes. Not a tick over normal.
All my spoilers, baffles, and gaskets related to the cooling system are IN PLACE.
I'm using the DeWitts perfect fit aluminum rad with dual SPAL fans and a Stant 180 stat. No overflow or expansion bottle, either, so the cooling system has plenty of air in it.
The only issues I seem to have regularly are burnt plug boots and I'm taking care of that with boot socks and header wrap. It's only an issue because of the 2 1/8" header primaries. My family has been running big blocks since about 1967. We've never had any problems.
I havent done a conversion in a C3 but my C2 wasnt too bad. Springs on the front, radiator...DeWitts aluminum with electric fans. Automatics are a little more difficult. Springs need to be changed at the same time. Rear shaft u-joints and side-yokes are different on a BB too. (C2)
You have many crate motors to look at. I did a 468 built with well over 500 HP and 500 foot lbs of torque...fun. The 502 requires a few more modifications than the 454 and you may have hood clearance issues.
There are many different degrees that people will do when doing a conversion.
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You have many crate motors to look at. I did a 468 built with well over 500 HP and 500 foot lbs of torque...fun. The 502 requires a few more modifications than the 454 and you may have hood clearance issues.
There are many different degrees that people will do when doing a conversion.
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Senior Member since 1492





Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,927
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
I finished my BB rebuild in the Fall of 2004. It took me 2.5 years to rebuild an '87 454 out of a Suburban. Then it took me another month to drop the engine and connect things. I don't work on my Vette often which is why it took so long. You can checkout my site below.
Springs? I still have my SB springs although they are shortened. I can't notice any difference in ride characteristics between SB & BB. I'm also using aluminum heads, intake, radiator and installed a BB F/R sway bars. I do have a set of 550's in the garage awaiting installation someday.
Cooling problems? I'm using DeWitt's aluminum direct fit radiator and dual electric Spal's. As a test, I took my Vette into the congested city last summer when the ambient temp was 95°. The engine remained a constant 190°.
Good luck and keep us posted with lots of pics.
Springs? I still have my SB springs although they are shortened. I can't notice any difference in ride characteristics between SB & BB. I'm also using aluminum heads, intake, radiator and installed a BB F/R sway bars. I do have a set of 550's in the garage awaiting installation someday.
Cooling problems? I'm using DeWitt's aluminum direct fit radiator and dual electric Spal's. As a test, I took my Vette into the congested city last summer when the ambient temp was 95°. The engine remained a constant 190°.
Good luck and keep us posted with lots of pics.
I have a stock 1973 454. I have owned this for almost 3 years and have never had a temperature, or overheating problem when taking it out for my weekend drives. All the stock weatherstripping, gaskets, etc. are still in place.
kdf
kdf
Stewart Stage II water pump, DeWitt's aluminum radiator, dual Spals, 160* thermostat, pace car spoiler and seals.
The biggest benefit I saw was when I replaced the cracked, flimsy air deflector with the front spoiler. No problems at all now.
Brett
The biggest benefit I saw was when I replaced the cracked, flimsy air deflector with the front spoiler. No problems at all now.
Brett
Originally Posted by CGGorman
Sounds like the bottom line is a bunch of small block guys who are jealous spreading nasty rumors 

Originally Posted by Jughead
I finished my BB rebuild in the Fall of 2004. It took me 2.5 years to rebuild an '87 454 out of a Suburban.
If you had to do it again, would you go with the donor-engine-rebuild option?
My big block is lighter than most small blocks. It has never overheated. There are not any drawbacks to the switch. Just make sure that you have a source for the pulleys and brackets that will be necessary. Paragon is probably a good place for that stuff.
Senior Member since 1492





Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,927
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by nihil
I've been weighing my options on exactly how to build. I know that I do not want a crate engine.
If you had to do it again, would you go with the donor-engine-rebuild option?
If you had to do it again, would you go with the donor-engine-rebuild option?
Yes, in fact I've been toying with the idea of buying another core and building another.
I only do cash & carry. Otherwise I think I would have bought a ZZ502 but I couldn't swing $7,000.
Originally Posted by Jughead
Yes, in fact I've been toying with the idea of buying another core and building another.
I only do cash & carry. Otherwise I think I would have bought a ZZ502 but I couldn't swing $7,000.
I only do cash & carry. Otherwise I think I would have bought a ZZ502 but I couldn't swing $7,000.
Senior Member since 1492





Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,927
Likes: 156
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by nihil
I'm with you there on the cash and carry. How did you come to find the engine?
I was looking in all the local papers and on Ebay. I was just about to buy a 454 assembled short block from Ebay when this complete FI 454 appeared in a local paper. It was more than I wanted to pay and I knew I wouldn't use some of the parts but the guy was nearby and would deliver to my garage that same day.
I have my original 427 that is 30 and run the original radiator with a Stewart's water pump. I had the car in a few parades a long time ago and the engine did get warm but did not overheat. Make sure that your weatherstiping around the radiator is good so that you force air through it instead of around it.
As far as the front springs are concerned, I replaced my stock coils with Grand Touring springs from VB and the ride height is perfect. This thing has been more reliable than I could have imagine and I have owned the car since '89. The only disadvantage that I found with the big block is that if you ever try to autocross it, it will probably take a few attempts to get used to a little more understeer than you would bet in a small block.
Don't hesitate go for it!
As far as the front springs are concerned, I replaced my stock coils with Grand Touring springs from VB and the ride height is perfect. This thing has been more reliable than I could have imagine and I have owned the car since '89. The only disadvantage that I found with the big block is that if you ever try to autocross it, it will probably take a few attempts to get used to a little more understeer than you would bet in a small block.
Don't hesitate go for it!

















