68 Pop Rivet Bubbles
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: May 2006
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68 Pop Rivet Bubbles
Our 68 Vette has the pop rivet bubble problem on the front end. I'm getting different stories from a couple body shops about how to repair. One says we need to replace the surround. The other said we can drill the rivets out and patch the holes.
I can see where replacing the surround will fix the problem. I wonder if merely drilling holes out and filling with resin etc. will eventually give out.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks guys.
I can see where replacing the surround will fix the problem. I wonder if merely drilling holes out and filling with resin etc. will eventually give out.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks guys.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by Top Dead Center
Our 68 Vette has the pop rivet bubble problemon the front end. I'm getting different stories from a couple body shops about how to repair. One says we need to replace the surround. The other said we can drill the rivets out and patch the holes.
I can see where replacing the surround will fix the problem. I wonder if merely drilling holes out and filling with resin etc. will eventually give out.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks guys.
I can see where replacing the surround will fix the problem. I wonder if merely drilling holes out and filling with resin etc. will eventually give out.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks guys.
actually if you just sand it down then repait you will be fine. what youare seing is a chemical reation between the rivtes and the paint over time. they are not actually sticking up, its just the paint.
snad and repaint, youll be fire
tim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
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From: Austin Texas
The "bubbles" you are seeing are the result of corrosion of the aluminum rivets on the steel reinforcement, pushing up on the fiberglass. Just sanding down and repainting will only be temporary. You need to address the corrosion problem, by removing and repairing the bonding panel, or replacing it with a rivet-less unit like that which is found on '73 and newer C-3's. If you want to keep the original riveted style, you can carefully chisel it out and bead blast the unit, then epoxy paint it and re-bond it. Try the search funtion, as a few here including myself, have gone thru this repair in detail. G/L
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
The bubbling is caused by corrosion of disimilar metals, aluminum rivets and the steel reinforcement below. The ultimate and permanent repair (most expensive) would be to replace the entire surround or the front section of the surround and glue the headlight reinforcement and bonding stips in place, thus eliminating the rivets and holes like the later C3 design.
A less expensive way would be to glue the reinforcement and bonding strips to your existing surround and patch the outer surface. You will need to buy a new rust free reinforcement and there is some risk that the holes could become visible again with shrinkage of the patch material.
A less expensive way would be to glue the reinforcement and bonding strips to your existing surround and patch the outer surface. You will need to buy a new rust free reinforcement and there is some risk that the holes could become visible again with shrinkage of the patch material.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
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From: Yooperville MI
Originally Posted by rihwoods
Have stainless rivets been used ?
Rich
Rich
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by ahoover
The bubbling is caused by corrosion of disimilar metals, aluminum rivets and the steel reinforcement below. The ultimate and permanent repair (most expensive) would be to replace the entire surround or the front section of the surround and glue the headlight reinforcement and bonding stips in place, thus eliminating the rivets and holes like the later C3 design.
A less expensive way would be to glue the reinforcement and bonding strips to your existing surround and patch the outer surface. You will need to buy a new rust free reinforcement and there is some risk that the holes could become visible again with shrinkage of the patch material.
A less expensive way would be to glue the reinforcement and bonding strips to your existing surround and patch the outer surface. You will need to buy a new rust free reinforcement and there is some risk that the holes could become visible again with shrinkage of the patch material.
The only thing i would say is how long is temporary? It took about 15 years for it to be a problem with my current paint job.....
But i will concede to do it once do it right point
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Michael S. Palmer
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
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Originally Posted by Top Dead Center
I don't know, Rich. The rivets have not popped through.
I read a good thread on this awhile back...good discussion on techniques including repairs...try a search in the archives...
Rich
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by rihwoods
My 69 show in certain light conditions,but are not popping thru...frame off was about 12 years ago by previous owner...
I read a good thread on this awhile back...good discussion on techniques including repairs...try a search in the archives...
Rich
I read a good thread on this awhile back...good discussion on techniques including repairs...try a search in the archives...
Rich
I read the same thread was passing along some of the knowledge before the
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
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Originally Posted by sweethence
I read the same thread was passing along some of the knowledge before the
..another point here is GM changed design on the 69's from 68....think they "showed" from the factory on some vettes...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
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From: Austin Texas
The corrosion takes some time to develop, as there is a gap between the rivet head and the surround. I imagine in a moist climate (like the coast) it may show up in a few years after production. That said, we see survivors come thru the shop with no evidence of bumps due to corrosion, probably a dry climate car. After removing the header, you will find rust imbedded in the surround. AFAIK, the only change from '68 to '69 was to add the fender-well support brackets on the ends.
Race Director
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
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From: I can walk to MA
If replacing the rivets, I would definitely go with stainless pop rivets.
I have used 3/16 stainless pop rivets in my resto. They are very
strong, but tough to "pull". You'll probably need backer washers on the
underside of the reinforcement, too.
I have used 3/16 stainless pop rivets in my resto. They are very
strong, but tough to "pull". You'll probably need backer washers on the
underside of the reinforcement, too.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,188
Likes: 4,010
From: Connecticut, USA
I think the best way to fix this is the hardest, replace the bonding strip without the rivits in the support. You can use the original support with a NOS strip if you can find them. That's what I'm doing. I got mine from Bairs about 3 years ago. If not then get a new support. The new supports are bent so the bonding strip isn't required.
Here is what you're dealing with, drilling holes in glass always leaves room for shrinkage and holes showing.
Here is what you're dealing with, drilling holes in glass always leaves room for shrinkage and holes showing.
