Where the heck do you find one of these? I bought one with a 1.50 Pitch but it is not the correct thread as I thought. So far I have tried Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace and a local Mom and Pop Hardware store. No one has less than 1.50 pitch.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

The spark plug thread is a 1.25 according to NAPA. I could not find one either so I made my own. Take a spark plug and punch out the porcelin guts from the body. Cut off the electrode. Run a 3/8-16 tap thru the body, insert a long threaded bolt or a piece of threaded rod with the tip rounded off. Add a lock nut to the top and you are all set. Looks just like that summit part! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e/100_0262.jpg

 

This is the stop I have. I got it from Summit and it had a hollow center to keep compression from building. Here is the thread I started when I was wanting to use the tool.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1296913

 

"modify" a spark plug, remove the ceramic, drill thru the part that has the thread (f.e. 1/4") and stick a 1/4" rod in the hole after you installed the modified plug. Now you can setup a dial indicator reading the rod.

McGyver's finest

 

I bought the tool that Eddie suggested from Crane and it worked great. I rotated the crank very slowly when I came up onto the stop (bolt) so that there wasn't any smashing going on. - very quick and easy

 

Best and easiest way, works every time. And you have the benifit of using a dial indicator.

 

I remove the drivers valve cover, and #1 spark plug then rotate the engine until piston #1 is at the top. I use a small plastic straw to confirm through the spark plug hole. When both #1 cylinder rockers are loose and the piston is at the top of the cylinder, I know I have TDC.

 

Making one is real easy, heres how.
1- Go to the auto parts store and get you one of those anti-foulers that you put on the spark plug and into the head. These are the same shape and thread as the plug.
2- Drill throught the bottom lip where the hole is that lets the spark out using a 5/16 drill bit.
3- Using a 3/8 tap (starter tap with the tapered tip is best) tap the hole you just drilled. It doesnt have to be perfectly straight as you wont be turning it while installed and the anti-fouler (adapter) is easy to tap.
4- Get a 2.5 inch long hex head bolt (grade 5) and remove the threads on the tip of the bolt back 1/2inch and round off the tip with a drill and a file then sand smooth. Make sure you get a bolt that is threaded all the way to the head or you will need to cut the threads up with a die.
5- Get your piston as close to TDC on the compression stroke and back off (CCW) about 1/8 turn and stop.
6- Now screw your bolt all the way into your adapter and install in the no.1 plug hole. This gives you about 40 degrees of separation.
7- IMPORTANT!!!, Turn your crank CCW till it stops but dont force it. MARK BALANCER HERE.
8- Now turn the crank CLOCKWISE till it stops and mark the balancer.
9- Back off the crank a little and remove the stop tool you made and measure the marks as they are on the top of the balancer now. Mark a line half the distance between the two marks you just made.
10- Turn crank CLOCKWISE to the center mark you just made and you are at TDC on the compression stroke with the timing chain pre loaded in normal rotation of the engine.

A pic of one that took me about 25 minutes to make (I used a lathe for the bolt). Keep in mind you want the bolt screwed all the way into the adapter and tight so it doesnt move when the piston hits it. Now everyone can have one for less than 4 bucks if you have to buy the bolt and Anti-fouler. No need to spend $30 on one and wait 2 days to get it when it can be made with hand tools in less than an hour with available parts.