My wife finally let me buy a toy!! 1980, crate 350. Love the forum and all the information.
Question 1: Installing bent welded 2 1/2" duals next week with Dynomax turbos. I don't plan on headers but I probably will change my mind. Which headers are recommended and are they easy to install? Should I just do it at the same time or is it no big deal to wait?
Question 2 : I have not removed the door panel yet but the passenger side does not lock at all. Lock button does not push in at all. Any quick tips for when I remove the door panel?
Great car and I am sorry I waited so long to get one!
Thanks
Joe

 

Welcome Joe!
Enjoy your new toy. I can't remember the brand of header people use mostly, but if you use the search tab at the top of the page it's been covered. You don't have to do them at the same time, because the pipes will have to go through the same crossmember holes with or without headers. Only the front parts will have to be re-done.
Just realized you have an 80, what I said applies on the old ones, are you using an older two-hole crossmember?
No idea on the lock. Someone will help.
But anyway have fun.
Joe.

 

Hey Joe,
Ahh, that's right, isn't 1980 the first year without 2 holes? Went to look under the car before when I spotted anti freeze on the floor of my garage. Looks like it may be the radiator.
Thanks,
Joe

 

Congrats on the new toy and welcome to the forum. Get ready to spend alot of time here and on the car. It really is fun.

 

Congrats....Welcome

 

I am running FlowTech headers with custom bent 2-1/2" stainless and Magnaflow mufflers.

It is fairly mellow until you get on it. Now I know what is meant by the "Loud Pedal".

I dont know about adapting the pre-bent stuff but a good shop should be able to do it.

 

Congrats! Pics, Pics & more Pics....

I heard the Hooker Super Competition Headers are the way to go. That's where I'm headed when I get there.

 

Welcome and congrats on the '80. Try and post pics when you can.

 

nice

 

Welcome and Congrats on your new ride!

 

welcome home

 

Thanks...looking forward to hearing from you guys..

 

Depending on the condition of the door panel, and how many times it's been off, it's sometimes a real pain to get the armrest screws out, and even harder getting them back in. It's been about two years since I've had mine off, but there isn't anything really tricky about getting them off.
Unscrew the door lock ****.
Remove the 3 screws holding the arm rest in place and remove the arm rest.
Remove the screw holding the door handle bezel in place and remove the bezel.
Remove the two screws holding the mirror adjuster.
Remove the screw at the top rear of the panel
There is a special tool for removing the panel retainers, but if you're careful, you can get by with a large flat blade screwdriver. Can't remember how many there are, but just feel your way around between the panel and the door frame. Make sure you get them all.
Lift up on the panel, but remember that the power window connector is still wired.
Thread the mirror remote through the hole.
Carefully seperate the power window electrical connector. You may have to gently pry it apart but be careful not to break it, or short it out. I may be wrong, but I seem to remember that one of the poles is always hot.

Water and stuff gets inside and messes up the locking mechanism. Hopefully, your's is not too bad and you can get it working with some PB Blaster and some DW40. Just do what you can to free it all up. That's all it took for mine to get working again.

While your are there, at a minimum you should vacuum out any accumulated debris that's in there. (mine had the remnants of a broken window) There is a drainage hole somewhere in the bottom and it's important that it be free of obstructions.
Clean the window mechanism as best you can. I used lots of WD40 for this, made the car smell a lot better than the old vanilla scent that was in there before!!

After you clean it up, lube all the moving parts with some lithium grease. You can get it in a spray can with a red extension tube at any parts store.

Shoot some lube into the mirror remote.

Clean up the electrical contacts with some electical contact cleaner.

There should be a little foam sleeve an inch or so long on the long rod that goes the length of the door. If it isn't there, it will have a tendency to rattle. Very irritating. If it's not there, just put something there in it's place.

If someone has been in there before, it's likely that they either tore up or removed the vapor barrier. If there isn't one there, you could use some plastic sheeting from home depot or, I suppose you could use saran wrap, it will serve the same purpose, and save you about a gram of weight! That's got to be worth something on the track!

Hopefully, that solves your imediate problem. If not, the locking solenoid may be bad but before you assume that, make sure you are getting a full 12 volts to it.

Good luck, have fun. It's a good starter project with many more enjoyable ones to follow,

 

Congrats

 

Welcome... Love the lines in 1980!

 

Thanks for the tips!! Actually I sprayed some WD40 on the locking rods through the top of the door and I can get it locked and unlocked again. It's still a little tight though. I will eventually take the panel off because the window needs to be adjusted.
Thanks!