Por-15 Tips
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
From: Mukilteo Washington
I have to add something to this.
I pulled my engine after the complete frame/suspension restore. There was a few spots close to the engine that I needed to rework with POR, I over sprayed Metal Ready because I wanted to empty the spray container, I got a little on my zinc coated swat bar and some on my new brake lines, Metal Ready stained these finishes to a dull aluminum color.
I pulled my engine after the complete frame/suspension restore. There was a few spots close to the engine that I needed to rework with POR, I over sprayed Metal Ready because I wanted to empty the spray container, I got a little on my zinc coated swat bar and some on my new brake lines, Metal Ready stained these finishes to a dull aluminum color.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Good advice ... don't get the metal ready on parts you're not painting.
It'll eat any zinc like crazy.
Put a zinc plated piece in some phosphoric acid and it starts to bubble right away.
It'll eat any zinc like crazy.
Put a zinc plated piece in some phosphoric acid and it starts to bubble right away.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: London
I'm also getting ready to use POR-15 product's and am confused as where to put what.I have Marine Clean to start followed by Metal Ready then POR-15 and finishing with Chassis Coat Black.Does this same 4 part process go on all the frame and front suspension part's or are there more product's for the a-arms,front spring's,steering part's etc?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by bbvette69
I'm also getting ready to use POR-15 product's and am confused as where to put what.I have Marine Clean to start followed by Metal Ready then POR-15 and finishing with Chassis Coat Black.Does this same 4 part process go on all the frame and front suspension part's or are there more product's for the a-arms,front spring's,steering part's etc?
rather than Chassis top coat, but that is more work (timing).
You're good to go.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
DOH - dupe post.
So, let's make it unique.
OK, I replied to Mike directly about the silver questions.
Bottom line is that silver POR looks like a hammered finish on cast parts,
and a smooth glossy silver finish on smooth surfaces.
I think the tank would look fine in silver.
Adding a little black could be done to mix up a custom gray.
Here are silver parts I've PORed:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/brakes/brakes_98.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/brakes/brakes_99.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_02.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_03.jpg
So, let's make it unique.
OK, I replied to Mike directly about the silver questions.
Bottom line is that silver POR looks like a hammered finish on cast parts,
and a smooth glossy silver finish on smooth surfaces.
I think the tank would look fine in silver.
Adding a little black could be done to mix up a custom gray.
Here are silver parts I've PORed:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/brakes/brakes_98.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/brakes/brakes_99.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_02.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/frame_paint_03.jpg
Last edited by NHvette; Jun 20, 2006 at 01:27 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by Red 69
Thanks Dave, my silver POR is in the mail!
The make a clear as well that works great on spindles, calipers, Master cylenders and steering boxes
