Bought a gallon of por-15 and I'll start doing my frame. I would like some tips from other's who've used por-15 and have some tips. So far I've wire brushed as much of the frame as possible(I'm not doing a full frame off).

Thanks

Edit: Would washing the frame with dawn and water be enough?

 

Not about frame prep but:

WEAR GLOVES!!!!

 

Don't they sell a metal prep product?

 

Make sure all dirt and oil/grease are off. Use of their metal ready product is highly recommened. I started without it and noticed a difference when I used it.

 

Yes, I've used it,..the best advice was above,.."wear gloves",..if this kryptonite dries on your hands, you'll have some 'splainin' to do at the office the next day,..or two,..or three.

I use a couple of throw-away paint brushes,..1" inchers then go to town.

I don't like the sheen, so I typically spray over it with Rustoleum 7777 Satin black for which is close to factory appearance.

Lastly,..you can't sand Por-15 (or at least I couldn't). This is one of reasons I've moved away from the stuff.

I've used it successfully on the insides of fenders (Camaros), on radiator supports, and floorboards.

 

What would the difference be? I think painting it straigth on shouldn't have a major impact, right?

Thanks for the replies everyone!

 

Must use the metal prep for it to stick. Also MUST wash off metal prep dust after it dries for paint to stick. Stir can well (don't shake). Pour out only what you'll use into a clean container. Cover the open unused can opening with plastic (not too thin...use freezer bag thickness) then reseal the lid. (kind of like a gasket between the can & lid) Doing this prevents the paint from drying out and makes opening easy the next time. I have POR that is over a year old and still good!!!!
Eddie

 

Gloves, Long sleeve shirt, goggles, hat, etc. If you are painting the frame from underneath the car, cover up as much skin as possible.

Use the metal prep also.

 

It adheres much better with the Metal Ready. Some areas the residue gets a little flakey and should be knocked off. It's like getting dirt in the paint. I always purchased the little cans. Since I was not painting everything at once the expense of smaller cans was worth it. I used 2 to 3 layer of plastic wrap between the can and lid. You still have to clean the rim of the can. If your going to top coat it, you can lay a thin coat of spray paint on the Por-15 before it's cured. Por-15 can be sanded but is very tough. For clean up I use lacquer thinner. By clean up I'm not talking brushes, you'll more than likely get a little bit on yourself. Not a big deal to have it on your arms, but you don't want to go to work with a couple ob balck marks on your face for 5 days.

 

(unless you like looking like a freak for 1-2 weeks with black speckled hands)

 

The metal prep is a rust neutralizer and helps the paint stick...and that's the reason your using POR to begin with right?? To stop rust! Without the metal ready, your just painting.
There were a few small spots I missed with the metal ready...and less than two yrs later the paint flaked off...
Eddie

 

An etch (Metal ready) helps with ANY coating.
POR15 will not stick well over paint.
If you've got frame areas with paint left ... well, gotta get it off.
Then, under the paint is clean shiny metal ... where you HAVE to etch for it to stick.

Same some cash and head to Home Depot. They have two products:
I used to buy the spray bottles of "Must for Rust". This is a good
Phosphoric acid etcher.
Just below that, I saw what I bought this time: a 1gallon jug of
"prep 'n' etch" by Stripklean. Same deal - no spray bottle.
Naval jelly works well, too - but not available by the gallon.

Follow the POR directions and it will work well.

Oh - too late but my advice is to use the silver POR and topcoat
with semi-flat black Krylon. Also, buy in smaller cans ... costs
a few bucks more but lasts longer if not opened. 2 qts is more than
enough for a complete frame job.

Good luck

 

I guess I'll buy some of that must for rust. I know I actually have a small bottle in the garage because it hitted me on the head when it fell off the shelf last week. I think someone was trying to tell me something! Thanks for the help, everyone. Pictures should be up soon.

 

A gallon? Man that stuff go's along ways, I was surprised how far a QT got me. If you open a gallon of POR15, pour some in a smaller container, reseal the lid with out cleaning it real good and that would be the last time the lid will come off, it must be re-sealed, some have drilled holes and installed bolts in the lid to re-seal the can.
I raised the body off my frame 3" with jack stands. I have a storage room over my garage that wouldn't support the body's weight. I went to harbor freight and got a $20.00 hand held grinder with some wire wheels and went to town under there, this was the dirtiest work I've ever done . You got to love a car to strip the frame to bare metal 3" from your face. I then cleaned it with soap and water, re-cleaned it with there Marine clean, there Marine clean is very strong and you will want to where cloves for that. After drying I used there Metal ready, this is eching/acid based, I then rinsed with water, you will also want to where gloves, skin protection and saftey glasses. After drying I applied the POR with a brush and a small roller, If you get a little on you it will clean off with thinner, don't let it dry on you or like everyone else said YOU WILL BE TATTOOED, you clothes will be trashed and use plenty of rubber cloves.
Mine turned out nice and is easy to clean.

 

I did the exact same thing, lol. Only thing was that the body was/is still on the frame... Just a quick question, do I really need to use their marine cleaner, or will I be just fine with soap/water? Thanks for the tip.

 

As long as the solution you use doesn't leave ANY RESIDUE behind. I'll bet soap will....To be safe I usually give it a quick swipe with brake cleaner after washing.
Have fun...
Eddie

 

I would beg to differ here i ve used the stuff extensively on multiple projects.

Either applly ti dirtectly to the rustere areas or stick with either thier metal ready product or use a good self etching primer, If you dont, you run the rick of the stuff not adhering and bubbling up later.


cheeers


tim

 

He asked if using soap & water instead of POR's "Marine clean" would be OK for grease & dirt removal before etching. I replied that soap & water might leave a residue behind...
Eddie

 

I be doing this later, thanks!

 

I am in the process of doing the same thing to my frame with the body on. Keith, a POR-15 rep I spoke with said the area to be painted must be clean. He recommended their Marine Clean, but said Simple Green would also work, but their product would do a better job. He said not to use Lacquer thinner or similar as it will leave a non-compatible residue. After removing all grease with the water based cleaner, let dry and prepare the surface with Metal Ready. Since I have never done this, I would follow the suggestions above to dust off any powder or flakes before applying the POR-15. I am just sharing what their rep told me this morning. 800-457-6715 This is a very informative thread on using the POR product, thanks for all the tips and advice.

NHvette, I have a question on the silver POR-15 you recommend. I wired brushed my gas tank to remove light rust and would like to seal it from future rust. The POR-15 rep I spoke with said their Metal Mask used to coat gas tanks and look like iron does not protect like POR-15. He recommended coating the tank with POR-15 first. What does the silver look like? Does it have a shiny gloss like the black product which is what I am after? I'm thinking a nice silver color on the tank with black straps might look better and forget the Metal Mask, what do you think? Also, how about the brake lines under the car, will the silver POR work OK on them as well?