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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 08:39 PM
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Default Rust experts - inside!!

Okay, so it appears I'm not done with rust yet!! After dumping a lot of money to fix the kick-ups and birdcage, I find this (no thanks to Corvette Sports for never discovering it!). It doesn't look too bad to me, but I thought I'd get an idea from you guys. Is this something that can be fixed with some wire brushing, cleaning, and POR-15? This is the only spot that my car leaks from - if you can't tell, it's right at the back of the T-bar, taken looking up from the cargo area. The glass that is visible in the pics is the rear window.


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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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If you brush it down you might find some small holes. Poke around with a screwdriver. If you hear a metallic sound the metal underneath is probably OK. If you hear a dull thud the metal is about to give out. The difference in sound is obvious. In any case that is only a small area so you should be able to repair it and get on to your next nightmare, I mean adventure.

I thought I had a few small holes in the radiator support of the 72. After poking with the screwdriver I found I needed a new support.



Rick B.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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What Ive used in the past is battery acid,it dissolves the rust and leaves virgin metal.The panel where the rust goes under will have to be removed to get at the rust.Being over head is a pain,the acid is like water so it will drip on whatever is under it.In cases like this Ive mixed 50/50 Navel Jelly and the acid.Believe me,this works.There used to be a product called Captain Lees that I got at the auto paint store but havent seen it in a while.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 12:30 AM
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Por-15 Silver might be the way to go here. It has metal particles suspended in the mix for extra strength. I have used it with success. I'd go to the trouble of removing the stainless T section and attack the problem from both sides.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 09:04 AM
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That's not too bad ... easily cleaned up and coated.
I suspect your leak is coming in around the chrome moldings
that screw down along the rear edge of the Ttop openings.
There should be a sticky tar substance that seals them to the
birdcage halo.

This is what mine looks like ... and I'm not too worried.
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/rear_window_70_4.jpg

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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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Thanks a lot for the responses everyone! My car is in the shop right now awaiting a new Eckler's L-88 hood to arrive and be fitted, and I'm having them check this out. I'd rather just have them deal with it while my car is there, as they have more experience with this kind of thing, but it's definitely good to know it shouldn't be too bad a process!
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 10:42 AM
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..........When I replaced the windshield in my 84 last summer I found some rust in the frame.It took about 5 days to remove it.Once I was finished letting the acid soak the rust was gone,not converted,covered,gone.No more rust.

Last edited by Z51JEFF; Jun 13, 2006 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Z51JEFF
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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Z51 did you use the 50/50 Navel Jelly method on your windshield frame or straight acid ?
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 02:09 PM
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Naval Jelly IS acid ... phosphoric acid ... best for rust removal IMO.
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Naval Jelly IS acid ... phosphoric acid ... best for rust removal IMO.
Sounds like he's asking if he used concentrated acid (which I doubt) or a 50/50 mix...
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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Eastwood's Encapsulator is a quick and easy way to go, if you don't want to do a lot of prep. Just wire brush the rust and apply. Looks good where I've used it so far...
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ikwhite
Z51 did you use the 50/50 Navel Jelly method on your windshield frame or straight acid ?
As stated Navel Jelly is acid.I mix this with the thin acid to keep it from running off of an incline surface.Using a rust converter works but why keep the rust,make it gone.
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