Brake question.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Renton WA
Brake question.
Hey guys,
I was wondering if anyone in here was a brake expert.
The brakes in my 74 manual 454 vert were working great, and then a few days ago I got in to go for a drive and noticed that I had to push the pedal MUCH farther down towards the floor to get the car to brake than I did previously.
The car still brakes fine, but the pedal is almost all the way on the floor to make it do so. Any idea where I should start?
I was wondering if anyone in here was a brake expert.
The brakes in my 74 manual 454 vert were working great, and then a few days ago I got in to go for a drive and noticed that I had to push the pedal MUCH farther down towards the floor to get the car to brake than I did previously.
The car still brakes fine, but the pedal is almost all the way on the floor to make it do so. Any idea where I should start?
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 6
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Originally Posted by wxw116
Hey guys,
I was wondering if anyone in here was a brake expert.
The brakes in my 74 manual 454 vert were working great, and then a few days ago I got in to go for a drive and noticed that I had to push the pedal MUCH farther down towards the floor to get the car to brake than I did previously.
The car still brakes fine, but the pedal is almost all the way on the floor to make it do so. Any idea where I should start?
I was wondering if anyone in here was a brake expert.
The brakes in my 74 manual 454 vert were working great, and then a few days ago I got in to go for a drive and noticed that I had to push the pedal MUCH farther down towards the floor to get the car to brake than I did previously.
The car still brakes fine, but the pedal is almost all the way on the floor to make it do so. Any idea where I should start?
If it has power brakes....check the vacuum supply hose from the intake manifold to the booster can. Could be a bad booster. If it won't hold a vacuum...replace it with a NEW one. I went through 2 re-built units...finally found a NEW one on ebay. They are a ***** to install. The 3rd one went in pretty quick. One way to tell if the booster is bad.....look to see if you gain 100 - 200 rpm at idle when you press the brake. You will normally see a "small bump"....but if it stays 100 - 200 up......the booster diaphram is bad and therefore creates a vacuum leak when the pedal is pressed.
Good luck....I've been there.......
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Renton WA
thanks bravo
I'll try that tonight. It does have power brakes...is the booster can you're talking about the "slightly larger than fist sized" apparatus on the drivers side that is right under you when you open the hood from the middle of the left front side?
Has 2 circular impressions on the top of it?
Has 2 circular impressions on the top of it?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
As fotyfobravo states but I'm leaning towards a caliper seal with your symptom. And I'll bet if you applied the brakes real hard the pedal will get worse (don't try it). One of the seals might have a slight leak that you have not noticed yet, but is sucking air into the system everytime you apply the brakes, and that could be also due to rotor runout.
So check the bottom of the calipers for wetness.
So check the bottom of the calipers for wetness.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Usually a bad booster will mean you have to push real hard to stop. Excessive pedal travel like you describe is a bubble issue. Like the man says, check fluid level, check for wet spots and then bleed them carefully.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 6
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Originally Posted by wxw116
I'll try that tonight. It does have power brakes...is the booster can you're talking about the "slightly larger than fist sized" apparatus on the drivers side that is right under you when you open the hood from the middle of the left front side?
Has 2 circular impressions on the top of it?
Has 2 circular impressions on the top of it?
Usually black....bolted to the firewall and bolted to the master cylinder. Will have one rubber vacuum line attached. This is not a pleasant job...so like ahoover says...check out real good for caliper leaks before you dive into the booster.
Let us know what you find......when it stops being fun....take a break!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Usually a bad booster will mean you have to push real hard to stop. Excessive pedal travel like you describe is a bubble issue. Like the man says, check fluid level, check for wet spots and then bleed them carefully.
Bad booster will make the pedal hard as a rock. You either have a leak which has put some air in your lines, or you've blown the inner piston seal in the MC.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Renton WA
wet calipers
So the front right caliper is wet.
I think this is a little beyond my skill, and I dont really want to mess with something as safety-related as braking, so I took it in to the guy who works on the stuff I can't fix.
My question is, what's a reasonable price to pay for a brake job? New calipers, pads, the whole bit (front) and rotors machined.
He quoted me $425 for all of it. Seemed a little high to me?
I think this is a little beyond my skill, and I dont really want to mess with something as safety-related as braking, so I took it in to the guy who works on the stuff I can't fix.
My question is, what's a reasonable price to pay for a brake job? New calipers, pads, the whole bit (front) and rotors machined.
He quoted me $425 for all of it. Seemed a little high to me?
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Pro
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 724
Likes: 1
From: NY
St. Jude Donor '06
If memory serves me, I think the calipers are about $125 to $150 ea. So, yes, it sounds OK to me. Check online and you will see the cost of the calipers. Nothing is cheap on these cars but as I always say, safety first.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
If they are changing all 4 calipers, new pads, and cutting the rotors for $425, that seems more than fair. Actually cheap.
Is this shop familiar with floating piston calipers? Does he know if the rears are original, he'll have to remove the rivits? Does he know that the rotor(s) will have to be shimmed to reduce runout? That $425 may be higher or he may take the standard shortcuts.
Is this shop familiar with floating piston calipers? Does he know if the rears are original, he'll have to remove the rivits? Does he know that the rotor(s) will have to be shimmed to reduce runout? That $425 may be higher or he may take the standard shortcuts.