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The right lower pad is an easy screw in replacement.....but if you're also changing the left, be prepared for extra work; you must loosen the steering column and let it drop a few inches....also, you should loosen the upper dash pad to allow room to reach the speedo and tach cables to take them loose.....oh, also remove the center console to allow ample fitting and adjusting room when re-assembling everything.
It's not really a hard job, but it is tedious. While everything is out, this is a good time to replace any other items like dash light bulbs,etc.
It took me about 3 hrs. to replace the upper dash and lower pads on my '69. Good luck.
The right lower pad is an easy screw in replacement.....but if you're also changing the left, be prepared for extra work; you must loosen the steering column and let it drop a few inches....also, you should loosen the upper dash pad to allow room to reach the speedo and tach cables to take them loose.....oh, also remove the center console to allow ample fitting and adjusting room when re-assembling everything.
It's not really a hard job, but it is tedious. While everything is out, this is a good time to replace any other items like dash light bulbs,etc.
It took me about 3 hrs. to replace the upper dash and lower pads on my '69. Good luck.
From: Minnesota in the summer, Las Vegas in the winter
Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
The right lower pad is an easy screw in replacement.....but if you're also changing the left, be prepared for extra work; you must loosen the steering column and let it drop a few inches....also, you should loosen the upper dash pad to allow room to reach the speedo and tach cables to take them loose.....oh, also remove the center console to allow ample fitting and adjusting room when re-assembling everything.
It's not really a hard job, but it is tedious. While everything is out, this is a good time to replace any other items like dash light bulbs,etc.
It took me about 3 hrs. to replace the upper dash and lower pads on my '69. Good luck.
If you are fussy, allow lots of extra time for unforseen items. Be sure you know what needs to be done before and as you are working. Everything needs to go back as you took it out.You may find that you will need to order items you hadn't thought of earlier. Now is the time to do things fight, not after you get it buttoned up. This is NOT a quickie job.
The right lower pad is an easy screw in replacement.....but if you're also changing the left, be prepared for extra work; you must loosen the steering column and let it drop a few inches....also, you should loosen the upper dash pad to allow room to reach the speedo and tach cables to take them loose.....oh, also remove the center console to allow ample fitting and adjusting room when re-assembling everything.
It's not really a hard job, but it is tedious. While everything is out, this is a good time to replace any other items like dash light bulbs,etc.
It took me about 3 hrs. to replace the upper dash and lower pads on my '69. Good luck.
C3,
How did you route the trip odometer reset cable on your '69? It seems that no matter how I route the cable it ends up kinked and won't reset the odometer.
Whitesnake, sorry for the minor thread hijack but I figured the answer might help you and others as well.
How did you route the trip odometer reset cable on your '69? It seems that no matter how I route the cable it ends up kinked and won't reset the odometer.
Whitesnake, sorry for the minor thread hijack but I figured the answer might help you and others as well.
Thanks
Jay
I didn't recall any special issues with the trip odom reset cable, but your question prompted me to take a look at it.......and sure enough, mine won't reset either! I never use it, so I never noticed. I couldn't see (or feel) any kinks, but it acts just too tight to reset the numbers when I push the ****. Keep working at it...maybe you'll have better luck than I. (I'm not planning to remove the dash pad to fix it...)
How did you route the trip odometer reset cable on your '69? It seems that no matter how I route the cable it ends up kinked and won't reset the odometer.
Whitesnake, sorry for the minor thread hijack but I figured the answer might help you and others as well.
Thanks
Jay
Did mine last week. I think the odometer reset is just a poor design and mostly doesn't work well. The install was relitively easy, took about 2 hours. But, there is a problem. The tach needle bounces around a little now. Seems to be getting better. Only have about 300 miles on it since then. On the 69 vert, probably others also, there is a extra under dash brace that the tach hub/cable rubs against. Pushes the cable connect a little off center? Didn't realize this till I was putting it back together and was hurring to get ready for a big event.