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P.S...I got my first Vette (a 68 Vert which I still have) in June of '74. Way cool!
That is cool. I also purchased my '68 in June of '74
I still know nothing about my car's history between '68 and '74. It had 31,000 miles on when I bought it and now has 65,000. I always wonder if I will ever see anyone that previously owned the car. There were 3 owners before me.
Thanks for the advice about the bumps. I like the heat gun idea.I use a heat gun now for electrical work so I know what you mean by setting it "just below sun".
big_G
Thanks for the advice about the bumps. I like the heat gun idea.I use a heat gun now for electrical work so I know what you mean by setting it "just below sun".
Except it wont work and a waste of time. The rust has to be cut out and re-glassed.
Except it wont work and a waste of time. The rust has to be cut out and re-glassed.
If you will look back at my post # 4 I briefly discussed the procedure to remedy the bumps. Even posted pics on this thread of the removed/rusted part prior to re-work.
If you will look back at my post # 4 I briefly discussed the procedure to remedy the bumps. Even posted pics on this thread of the removed/rusted part prior to re-work.
It wasn`t for me, I just refinished the nose of my 68 with new stainless rivits and glassed it all in.
Those are from the original rivets used to bond the headlamp sub-assembly together. Not supposed to be visible, but rust causes distress to the structure. I just repaired this problem on a customers '69....
big_G...
I have a friend that does quite a bit of restoration work on the C3's and he bonds these things in place. After removal, blasting and primering them, he bonds them in using rivets to hold them in place and then removes the rivets. Have you heard anything about doing it this way. It of course eliminates any chance of the rivets causing problems in the future.
The adhesive he uses is also used to glue metal panels on vehicles. It significantly reduces the finish body work associated with welding panels on.
Like I mentioned earlier, after the bumps have been leveled, the support has been repaired and epoxy primed, the under-side of the surround has been prepped, I use 3-M 8219 panel adhesive to glue the support back in place. I prefer to use about 20 clamps (the squeeze type) as opposed to temporary rivets, which may show up as shrinkage dimples later on. Very little leveling on the outer surface will be needed with this method, as the bumps have been previously leveled, and no holes drilled through the surround.
I think you missed something in the translation.....The support bar MUST be removed in order for the fiberglass bumps to return to the original position with added heat. Only after the bumps are leveled and the support bar and surround underside are prepped can the bar be bonded back in place.