I did a search, and didn't find what I'm looking for but I'm sure these questons have been asked before. I suck at searches so bear with me. This is my 1st post in C3. I usually post in CFOT.

I had a 85 until about 2 years ago. A ricer took it out. I drove it to work once/week, and sometimes on weekends. I would like to have something I could drive like this.

Anyways, I've been getting the itch for another Vette. I love the chrome bumper cars, but looking through the "For Sale" section it looks like I can't afford any of them.

What I want is something "cheap" but driveable. Less than $5000 initially. No rust on frame/birdcage/windshield post. Needs to have a good drivetrain. I can do mechanical work, but don't want to pay for a trans/engine/rear rebuild. Minor bodywork OK. I can lay down a slick paint job, so bad paint is preferred.

Some general questions.
How important is #'s matching? I would like to be able to sell the car on short notice if necessary, but not take a loss on investment. Is a $3000 NOM car with $2000 in parts a safe bet? Or better to get a $5000 car and do as little as possible?

Does repainting the car hurt the value? A silly question considering that there aren't many left with original paint, but on a new car it just kills the resale value.

Advice on buying over the internet. I don't mind traveling for the right car. I can tow it if necessary. But I don't want to travel 1000 miles for a rust bucket advertised as "almost perfect".

What about Corvettes at Carlisle? Worth the drive to find a car good enough to drive without getting screwed? Prolly a 900 mile trip one way for me.

I've looked at some of the post in C3, and y'all seem like a nice bunch of folks. Not as rowdy as CFOT. Any advice is appreciated.

 

I don't think I've seen a C3 under $5K that meets your description. $6-8K will get a mid- to late-70s rubber bumper car that drives but needs work somewhere - mechanical, interior, and/or paint/bodywork.

 

Well,.....anyone on this forum can tell you how fun the C3 is to drive. However, if you're looking for a nice and solid C3 for $3K, taht only needs $2K to be a nice car, then you're going to be out of luck. Even your higher number of $5K will not get you a "nice" car, but more like a decent project car. Even the rubber bumper cars are bringing $7K and up, and these cars will all need "something".

A $7K to $9K mid 70's Vette should be a decent driver. When you get any lower than that, you are looking for a lot of work. I just recent went through the process of buiying another '76. It was a long hard look, and it ended up being more than we're talking about here, and still not perfect by any means.

The C3's are more pricey than the C4's right now. Raise your sights a little.

 

This is what I got for 3K.



No it wasn't drivable, but had no rust and a good body. Great project car. If you want something to drive, better be ready to spend 6-8K.
Good luck.

 

the whole numbers-matching and original stuff is only important for those who suffer from Barrett-Jacksonitis. I would ignore it completely, ESPECIALLY if you want to really drive it with any frequency.
As for the prices, one thing to also take into account is where you live...I've seen plenty of nice C3's for 5-8 grand here in the rural midwest, even a few chrome bumpers in that range. Of course, the lower the price, the more work you will have to do to make it better...

 

'79 was highest production year and is likely the most reasonable in the class. I got mine for 7K a year ago and will end up putting about $1500 to make is safe and reliable. I paid a bit too much but overall it's woth what I have into it.

A little homework goes a long way. Make sure the suspension and brakes have been done by the PO and you've saved at least a grand. This includes the trailing arms, big PITA and big bucks.

Rust is all relative...mine has some but it has no impact functionally and little cosmetically...perfect, no...acceptable, absolutely. Try to buy a car with a clear history...a clean body driven for years in the northeast will have hidden rust, almost guaranteed, garaged or not.

Don't buy sight unseen, or minimum get a detailed inspection by a forum member or a local mechanic of your choice. Carlisle is a bit of a free-for all and there is definite pressure and competition. If you know EXACTLY what you want you may get lucky and find it there, but you risk compromising if you're on impulse power. Consider going for research purposes...I did in 2004 and it was well worth the effort and time just to know what's available and what to look for. It's also a lot of fun.

Bottom line, take your time and stick to your guns. Look for the car that has lots of important issues tackled, and that the PO is not interested in any longer...generally the best deal and the least headache going forward.

Wave on,
Steve

 

I use to have a c4 now I have a c3, I do like the c3 much better, it definitely gets the looks.
A daily c3 driver, is going to be around 6,000 to 8,000 if it is in very good shape you will be 10,000 to 16,000.
Here's what I learned when I bought mine two years ago:
1st: The paint job is the most important factor, a lot of body shops do not want to paint fiberglass cars. It cost between 6,000 to 10,000 to have the car painted.
2nd: A complete interior package is 1,000 dollars
3rd: If you need mechanical work done like half shafts that will be another 300 per shaft, including labor.
4th; Don't worry about matching numbers if it is a small block. Now pre 71 c3's matching numbers are great for these are steel bumper cars.

I can go on forever, the bottom line is what do you want to do with the car? Just drive it? Weekend car? Do you want to work on it? Do you drink beer? lots of beer?

These guys always want to point out that the most year ever to produce corvettes is 79, that's true BUT, How many 79 vettes do you see on the road, there where very few 79E, I know I have one. You try to find the original antenna bezel for a 79E?
Here is something else to think about, I was at a cruse in last month, my 79 was sitting next to a c6 and there must of been 20 vettes in a row all different ones, I little kid around 10 years old comes running across the parking lot to mine 79, turns around to his dad and says dad this is really a neat looking car etc. the moral of the story that this kid does not know values, but was looking purely at the body style, made my day. This happens a lot, park a nice 78-81 next to a c5 or c6 and see who gets the attention, that's why I have a C3, fast back style, the c3 did not come out with the fast back style until 78.
Oh well I will stop, I must be a little wound up today. Oh by the way most people with c3's have them paid for.
Have you ever sat in a c3 and look through the window over the hood? Plus when sitting in a c3 it feels like you are sitting in a airplane,lol
Ted

 

Bought my L-81 for $7000.00 from the auto trader online after looking for 6 months. Its in nice shape and lived its whole life in Florida. I have done a lot of repairs but luckily have done them myself. Going to put new bumpers and paint on it next year.

It is a blast to drive and yes C-3s turn heads. They are out there you just have to look.

 

I tend to agree that even the 5K vette is going to need some work to be a good driver. Now, if you take your time and are willing to wait you may find an L-48/auto car that needs paint as you mentioned for around 5K, maybe a little more. My best advice would be to be patient and don't jump at the first one you see. I did what was mentioned last year at Carlisle. I took it as a learning experience to figure out what I could afford that I was interested in. I wound up buying a 79 L-82 4 spd car on Halloween day for 7500 that was mechanically sound, had very nice interior, and need paint badly.

 

I think the biggest thing to be aware of in the price range you are looking is that you will probably need new brakes. I bought my car for 6k and spent $800 for a new master cylinder/booster, VBP calipers, rotors and new rubber lines. I wouldn't have trusted the brakes that were on the car to drive around a parking lot when I got it.

Mine had a NOM that just needed general cleanup but my interior was shot. I think it is possible to find a driver for $5k, but it will probably take a lot of searching. I think you should concentrate your search years from '76-81.

 

what does NOM mean?

 

NOT ORIGINAL MOTOR,,,,,,Peace,,,Moosie
But in retrospect,it could mean "NEEDS ONLY MONEY"

 

I meant it as the former, but the latter seems to fit better.

 

Sorry if it sounded like I meant you specifically,, I didnt. Just generally, and thank God there are guys like us that are willing to resurrect a legend even if it is not original down to the air in the tires,,,,ya got 'em,,,,,,drive 'em, and damn the originality. But a pristine original is nice. Peace,,,Moosie

 

Friend was at an auction yesterday...bid 5k on a 78 SA auto/L-48....it went for $6500 to another bidder...police auction (drug car)..