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While work on the engine tonight I dropped a wrench against the back of the alternator, the insulator boot on the positive terminal was not on. Think I saw a small flash as the wrench was falling to the floor. When to checkout the electrical system and the lights work, radio worked, HVAC fan worked, BUT the car's starter will not turn over. It sounds like the starter solenoid is buzzing/chattering but the starter motor will not turn over. A quick check makes me think the solenoid got "fried". Have not but 12 volts directly to the starter motor, too late.
Any opinions on what I get to do tomorrow night? Planning on replacing the starter solenoid and putting the isolator boot back on.
Roger
While work on the engine tonight I dropped a wrench against the back of the alternator, the insulator boot on the positive terminal was not on. Think I saw a small flash as the wrench was falling to the floor. When to checkout the electrical system and the lights work, radio worked, HVAC fan worked, BUT the car's starter will not turn over. It sounds like the starter solenoid is buzzing/chattering but the starter motor will not turn over. A quick check makes me think the solenoid got "fried". Have not but 12 volts directly to the starter motor, too late.
Any opinions on what I get to do tomorrow night? Planning on replacing the starter solenoid and putting the isolator boot back on.
Roger
Roger -sounds like you might have burned a fusible link.
Roger
I agree with the suggestion to charge the battery. Any time that I ever blew a fusible link, nothing electrical worked. Since he has some functioning electrical systems, and the starter clicks, I would say that he just needs to charge and/or replace the battery.
I agree with the suggestion to charge the battery. Any time that I ever blew a fusible link, nothing electrical worked. Since he has some functioning electrical systems, and the starter clicks, I would say that he just needs to charge and/or replace the battery.
Yes could very well be if that clicking is the normal one we here from a low battery.But I was thinking maybe-just maybe-he was hearing something else buzzing.His 73 has multiple fusible links which would lose diff areas of power in the car.Hopefully he put the charger on last night like Big G said.
I looked at the fusible links around the horn relay and none of them looked unusual. Don't know where any others are. The interior lights burn bright and the HVAC blower puts out air well with the ignition in run - like normal that is why I did not check the battery, but I will check the battery today. I, or I should my son, replaced the starter last week and all has gone well until last night.
Roger
Yes could very well be if that clicking is the normal one we here from a low battery.But I was thinking maybe-just maybe-he was hearing something else buzzing.His 73 has multiple fusible links which would lose diff areas of power in the car.Hopefully he put the charger on last night like Big G said.
That could be. I had a '75, and the two times that I blew a fusible link in it during the 17 years that I owned it, it was one of the ones down by the starter. So blowing another fusible link could very well cause different symptoms.
dwncchs - I notice that you are from Dayton, Ohio. I was born and raised there. I came here to Indy after graduating from U.D. in 1982.
I looked at the fusible links around the horn relay and none of them looked unusual. Don't know where any others are. The interior lights burn bright and the HVAC blower puts out air well with the ignition in run - like normal that is why I did not check the battery, but I will check the battery today. I, or I should my son, replaced the starter last week and all has gone well until last night.
Roger
Check your batt connections and your ground cable connection under batt box at frame-both these can make your solenoid chatter.The fusable links burn inside so you have to use test light on them or pull on the wire and see if it stretches.Sounds like the link at the starter is good if you have interior lights.
Checked the battery and it has 11.98 volts. Put my charger on the battery and put it in the 50 amp start mode. The starter solenoid still just chattered and I could here the thunk of the starter motor drive engaging.
So I'll look for a fusible link somewhere in the wiring.
I'll put 12 V across the motor to see if it runs.
Any other suggestions?
Checked the battery and it has 11.98 volts. Put my charger on the battery and put it in the 50 amp start mode. The starter solenoid still just chattered and I could here the thunk of the starter motor drive engaging.
So I'll look for a fusible link somewhere in the wiring.
I'll put 12 V across the motor to see if it runs.
Any other suggestions?
The battery is about 5 years old. I have checked it with a battery tester and it appears in the 'good' range, on the low side of the scale, when the resistance load is applied. Good in terms of voltage I believe is 10 or greater.
I put the battery charger on the battery this morning and I try it after work this evening.
Per the GM Service Manual;
If the starter motor does not operate, note whether the solenoid plunger is pulled into solenoid when the solenoid circuit is closed. Ordinarily the plunger makes a loud click when it is pulled in. If plugger is pulled in, solenoid circuit is kay, and trouble is in solenoid switch, cracking motor or cranking circuit. The starter motor must be removed for repairs to the switch or motor.
I'll admit, I'm still suspecting the battery, particularly since it's that old and just received a short to ground (even if it was only very brief). I've got into the habit that anytime that I start getting weird electrical behavior and my battery is getting old (4+ years), I will replace the battery. 95% of the time, that solves my problem. And that's with older cars. From what I hear, the newer, heavily computerized cars are even more susceptible to bizarre electrical behavior when the battery starts to age.
Another question - when your son replaced the starter, did he also replace the starter solenoid?