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Man you guys are right what a PITA 4 hours in the Tx heat! And now that it is out what do your think....all the A frame bushings are orignal, should I eat the down time and replace bushing and if so Rubber or poly? Now for the Radiator...It was too late to call a shop to have it flow tested and pressure checked and to get an estimate to recore if necessary. THIS IS NOT ABOUT BRANDS! But why do so few seem to just recore instead of replacing?
Thanks
Mike
Re-coring is about the same cost as a new radiator and more than some of the inexpensive aluminum radiators.
and Dewitts has aluminum (direct fit) rads for around $500 give or take a few bucks. They can be epoxy coated to look completely stock and cool a lot better than the brass/copper counterparts
Man you guys are right what a PITA 4 hours in the Tx heat! And now that it is out what do your think....all the A frame bushings are orignal, should I eat the down time and replace bushing and if so Rubber or poly? Now for the Radiator...It was too late to call a shop to have it flow tested and pressure checked and to get an estimate to recore if necessary. THIS IS NOT ABOUT BRANDS! But why do so few seem to just recore instead of replacing?
Thanks
Mike
In my case, I still have the original in my 1980 but since Im replacing the complete motor this week, I got a killer deal on a lifetime warranty NEW Modine for $170.70 at the local radiator shop. For that price, I wasn't going to bother with a re-core. Since my old orig is still in great shape, I plan to keep it in the box sitting next to the orig motor in the corner of the shop, just in case I ever want it all original again.
fun job removing it isn't it?
now try removing it and reinstalling it......... FOUR times in a week!
yep, had a hard time getting a persisitent leak to stop dripping so each time i put it back in, hooked it up, tested it, and had to pull it again.
And this was AFTER the initial pull and reinstall and I had it taken to a rad shop just to flush clean it and pressure check it for leaks to begin with!