Good day everyone.

Don't let the username mislead anyone. Angel's my Springer Spaniel, and sometimes, she's the boss.

My real name's Bob and I'm a marine mechanic in s/e NC. You can find me on another site that does not relate in any way to this one, if you've got a question about an outboard. Just do a search for Catfish1, then look for Bobpaul and Bubba's outboard repair, (Sounds pretty "Hick", doesn't it). It ticks me off when asked a question, and a bunch of wanna b's jump in and confuse the thread with opinions, and no basis for fact. So I was recommended to come here with my question about a 79' Vette.

Now on with the question;

I've been offered a 79' L 82, T-tops, automatic, 350 engine, everything stock, i'm told except the engine. I've been told it's a 350/325 hp.

New tires, not sure of the size, but much wider than I'm used to.

This vehicle was put up on jack stands over a yr ago because of a gas tank leak, and to do some work on the parts that keep the wheels aligned. It ate up a set of tires, and the owner was told it can't be aligned properly due to it's previous owner having heated and bent some rods. Those rods and bushings need replacing first, before any alignment can be done. The gas tank's been fixed and has yet to be installed.

The exhaust pipes were cut to remove the gas tank. Cut straight and clean for rewelding back on.

Nothing special has been done to it, that I know of. It's got the factory original two tone paint job, White on top and a light metalic blue bottom. The body looks to be damage free, but of course needs a paint job.

The frame shows signs of the undercoating lightly chipping away and nothing but some surface rust.

Engine oil was up to the max, radiator was full of the green anti-freeze mix, and the transmission oil had a used but not burned smell to it.

All the u-joints were replace about a yr prior to setting it up on the stands.

It also comes with a manual

My conditions on buying it are that we put the gas tank in and the wheels on to just test drive, and check out the drive train. He was ok with that, and didn't hesitate one bit to agree.

The questions are, what else would I need to look at, or for in this car?

I can get it for $3000.00. Am I buying a headache or a resonable project, for that money?

Thanks all who respond,

Bob

 

Hi Bob.....

1. Check out why the current owner thinks it is a 325 hP. If it is a 325 horse motor...it has had a lot of upgrades since the factory.

2. Unless the interior is totally trashed and the frame is rusted....I don't see how you could get hurt at 3 thousand.

3. Do as much of the labor yourself when you start to fix it up.

PICTURES if you can get them..........

 

Bob
Welcome aboard!
First of all , if you can get it for $3,000, grab it up quick.
Secondly, no 79 came from the factory with two tone paint.
Third if the engine is stock and an L-82, it is a 350 with 225 HP.

Regardless of the above it sounds like a very good deal. Good Luck and keep us posted.....................LT

 

Given your description, I would go for it. Hard to beat that price.

As noted above, no 1979 came with two-tone paint. It's difficult to know what has been done to the motor but if it runs well, that is fine. I assume the alignment problem is in the rear. I think the owner is speaking of bent strut rods. Some characters try to adjust camber by wacking the rods rather than loosening the cam bolt (often frozen with corrosion) and doing the job properly. But that should not chew up tires. Bad toe-in will and that is adjusted via shims on the trailing arm bolts. This is often a problem area because of rust and frozen components. But trailing arm bolt and bushing kits are inexpensive as is a stainless steel shim kit. The real problem is trying to get the old bolts out. A search on the archives here will offer up some solutions.

Good luck! I had a 1979 for many moons and enjoyed it very much. Here it is with my 1967.

 

This is a terrible deal, run for your life and never look back!!!! Oh and email the guys number so I can have talk with him............HEEHEEEHEEE
Hard to go wrong for that price if the car is solid, you could part it out and make a profit. Good luck you've caught the disease and there is no cure.

 

write the check and take home and finish it, I'll sell ya a set of strut rods with bushings cheap, shipping cost only

 

Welcome to the forum. I don't think you can go wrong for $3000 as long as the frame is not rotted.

 

Sounds like a real deal and you know the drill

 

As long as Bubba is sticking to outboards you'll be fine...

Manual = priceless. Would spend 3K for that alone!

As to your question: I had a similar problem with my strut rods "professionally" adjusted. I ended up having to swap out the rods and the differential yokes. The trailing arms were relatively new which is good because they're a big expense and a PITA. You may want to see if they've been updated at all. You will most likely need to do the brakes ($1000?) and portions of the front suspension ($200-$800?). Interior ~$1000. All other undiscovered nusiances and safety concerns...???

Good luck, 3K is a steal for what sounds to be a solid work in progress. And yes, you will lose sleep and it will cause headaches and a strong desire for beer. If you don't want that just spend 10K and it'll go away...

Here's a post of my rear end rebuild for reference.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1386013

Steve

 

I knew I came to the right place. Thanks for the support guys. I may be cussing all of you someday.

As for pics, well ya'll got rules here and until I can get my support out in the mail to those that make this forum possible, I can't post pics. It won't be long, and it's money well spent.

Good job on the rear suspention Wuttin. Yup the ones I'm talking about are bent like that. I think just the right one though. Must've been the same fool did this, that did yours.

I'll be in touch for parts.

 

you can have my old ones if you want a matched set...


Best of luck

 

$3000 is a good price. Just make sure the birdcage and the frame are ok. Order catalogs from the major Corvette part vendors and check their websites. Strut rods: get the adjustable rods (Smart struts).

 

sounds like a great deal....btw most vettes are a work in progress anyway dont ask how i know....buy it fix it,drive it ,fix it,etc.....also i have an outboard motor question,but i cant ask it here... jim....

 

Welcome! Remember, $3K is just a drop in the bucket for the TLC the car probably needs.

 

And fill out your profile.

 

Welcome aboard. Where are you? Where is the car? If it's in a rust free state like Cali or Arizona, and there is no visible rust, it's a very good deal. One question though. Are you mechanically inclined, and do you love, and I mean love, working on cars and getting your fingers dirty? Then this is the car for you. Buy it, provide all the free labor, ask lots of questions here, and after just a few dollars, OK I'm lying here, and a few hours, you'll have a very nice driver. If you don't enjoy working on cars, put $6k on the best '79 you can find. I doubt this is a '79 however, no two tones in '79, and the strongest engine in '79 was the L82 with 225hp. Pictures would be nice, we could really help you then. Tell us where you are, and I'm sure there are forum members nearby that would love to help you inspect the car. I too have my stock strut rods that I'd donate to the cause. Most of us have upgraded to poly smart struts and have the stock ones laying around. Email pics to anyone of us, and we'll be glad to post.

 

OK, forgot about the profile. I'll get-r-done.

Am I mechanicly inclined? We'll just a little. I repair boats and boat motors for a living

I brought up the two tone paint and the, no way, 325 hp to the owner. I suppose I never should've mentioned a hp rating on a 350 from back in the 60's, before we had pollution. But this guy's retired military (Navy)and he thinks everyone's as easy as he is. Ever try to argue a point with one of them?

You guys mentioned rusted bolts, and BFH's, and prying, and wedging to remove stuff from it's original position. Doesn't anybody use heat, acetylene, A torch. The stuff I work on sits in salt water all the time. Most of what I do get's the blue tip wrench before it gets turned. If it's not heated first, to break the corrosion, it breaks, bottom line. I've also melted my share of bushings in the process. I always order them if it's called for.

I'm pretty good at getting stainless bolts out of aluminum castings, and I really see nothing on this car as serious as a salted road run vehicle.

As for where I'm located, A place called Supply NC. About a 10 minute ride to the Atlantic ocean, Holden Beach, NC.

Thanks for the offer of posting pics, but that's kinda back door tactics. I'll send in my support and do it right. Less hassle that way. The car's not going anywhere. The owner's going to Duham in the morning, heart problems. We'll get up with the deal when he gets back.

Now, to get on with filling out the profile

 

Jim, ask it by using the pm feature of this site or send an email. I'd be pleased to help you out, if I can. Unlike Mercury techs, I don't know it all and am not ashamed to say it, but I'll help in anyway I can. Ok,not all Merc techs are arrogant, just the ones I came across.

 

Bob...See if this linky worky....might help you ID some of "your car's" items and equipment.....good luck with the purchase...sounds good.

http://www.idavette.net/facts/79.htm

 

Fred, I can't waite to use that information.

Thank you all again for the support effort.