Was talking to a local engine builder about redoing my SBC 350 because I wanted to retain my original engine block. He said once the deck is blocked the numbers on the block are gone. Can a block not be decked without removing block numbers ?I am also somewhat certain the motor has already been rebuilt once. If it has not been rebored too large should I be looking at another rebuild ? Please set me straight on redoing this motor ?

 

Depends on specific shops particular equipment & setup protocol ... some can deck & retain numbers ... some cannot ... some can but don't want to bother with it. You cannot know if it can be bored again until you KNOW where it's at now. For that matter, you may not need the block decked ... maybe you need it for a performance build ... but if not, you cannot know decks' needs until you inspect & measure. Suggest you find a core block to build.

 

99.9% of blocks do NOT need to be decked in the first place. A decent engine shop should be able to measure and demonstrate that a block actually requires it, and not just do it out of habit.

There are a few that have the technology and skill to be able to stop the rotary grinding machine before it hits the stamping pad, but you better be guarding your block 24/7 to make sure the guy doesn't screw up.

With respect to the stamping pad, remember that the residual broach marks left by the factory when machining your block are just as important for authenticity as the numbers they stamped. These marks can be easliy removed by overagressive cleaning of the pad with steelwool, scapers, sandpaper etc.

 

Since so many people have been screwed by shops decking and ruining their numbers, I don't think I would deal with any shop that would not let me stand there and watch them. Seriously, it is just not worth it. I would probably just store the original engine and find another engine to build or just buy a crate engine for driving.

Mike, I knew a guy who thought he was doing a good thing by taking a small air grinder with a scotch brite wheel and making his pad nice and shiny. Couldn't believe it, he totally removed the broach marks.

 

Do not deck the block. Most shops can not save the numbers. Some will say they can but they are probably just wishing. Very few will actualy be able to deck a block and save the numbers.

-Mark.

 

Sleeve it and try not to deck it.

 

Doesn't sleeving require at least some degree of decking to bring the top of the sleeve to the same height as the block?

 

Impossible.

Jebby

 

A few things:
1) I deck blocks to run zero deck......most shelf pistons for small block are for a 9.000 deck...so a "zero deck" block has always been 9.000. Stock is 9.020+.
2) Block can be decked and the numbers can be left alone, but you have to have a three axis cutter like a Rottler all in one to do it.....and a guy with skill running it.
3) The suggestion that blocks do not have to be decked most of the time is correct...IF it is flat and not much pitting. Run a straight edge and grab your feeler gauges.
4) Todays .041 head gaskets are light years ahead of the old steel shim in their ability to seal less than perfect decks......
5) The rebuild question to me is pretty straightforward......can you or do you have someone to check everything? Bore size, bearing clearance, ring gap, pushrod length, etc...? The only way to know for sure is to go through, run the numbers and check everything......I had a guy a few years ago with a street rod who bought a "newish" engine off Craigslist......383 Chevy. Even thought he engine was run and almost guaranteed ok, he wanted me to disassemble and check everything, which I did.....found crap pushrods eaten by the guideplates and a file fit ring set that had not been filed nor end gap checked. I charged him $1000.....best $1000 he ever spent.....IMHO. "You think you know.....but you don't really know"- Dick Maskins (Owner, Dart Machine) 2004.
6) There are SO many great updates for small blocks now, that it really pays to have knowledgeable builder rebuild your engine.....these engines are awesome when built and tuned correctly even in the 300-375 horse range.....smiles per mile......hard to beat, even today.

Jebby

 

They can be saved if the machinist is good.

 

14 year old thread revived. I think that’s the oldest I’ve seen.

 

I didn't notice the date. I hope OP has made a decision by now.

 

The information by jebbeysan was worth it. Should be a sticky.

 

Jebby,
It’s refreshing and reassuring to see someone posting here about machine shop/engine building that actually knows what they’re talking about AND can accurately quote Dick Maskin. Having been a shop owner in the Detroit area myself, and yes, I’ve met Dick and been to his home and shop in Troy, lots of people think they know, but they don’t. By the way I had the pleasure of touring the Dart Windsor ON facilities when they first started up. It was wonderland for a bowtie motor head.

Ken

 

I probably know you! LOL....born in Pontiac, raised in Clarkston and ended up in New Baltimore.......worked at Gianino's shop in the 90's and for the guy who bought it for a few years two different times.
Dick is an interesting man LOL! But you do better listening to him than not!
Never been to Dart Windsor but worked for Mitchell in Long Island after the split......
And that was one of Dick's favorite quotes!


Jebby

 

I think someone posted to a 2003 Zombie thread about a month ago....

Jebby

 

Man it’s a small world. I’m a MI native. Born in Wyandotte moved to Livonia then to Clarkston for 28yrs. Retired to CA for the weather 3yrs ago. My brother worked as a machinist for Ramchargers from 71 till 86 when they decided to get out of the shop business and just hustle parts. So three of us bought all their shop equipment and relocated to Wayne where we did all their shop work under contract in addition to our own customers like Batton and Koffel. Most of our walk in traffic were drag racers and sportsman roundyrounders that raced Flatrock and Toledo where we ran a late model too.

Ken