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1981 power steering

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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 11:21 AM
  #1  
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Default 1981 power steering

can anyone tell me what kind of fiasco to expect when replacing the power steering pump, and that compressor/jack whatchamacallit connected to it?

(my first vette, and the PS leaks like a scared toddler)


Regards,

valkyre
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 11:30 AM
  #2  
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Well, changing the pump out is not that big od a deal. To start with, why ya changing it? Leaks? No Power, noise?
Its in there a little tight, but it will come out, you can see most of the bolts holding it in. You have to use a puller to get the pully off and a bolt setup to put it on the new one. I recommend taking the pressure regulator spring out of the old one and putting it in the new one unless you completely trust the parts guys to give you the correct pump, vette pressures are lower than other cars.
Below the pump if the power steering control valve, it can leak, malfunction, cost about $85 for a new one, rebuild kit is about $25, not hard to do, but it has to be balanced once its all back in there. The only other component is the assist cylinder, it runs off the PS valve. Very little trouble or service needed there, possibly a shaft seal.
That cover it or make more questions?
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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FWIW: Take anouther look. I'm willing to be the pump is fine and the leak is at the control valve. Might be nothing more than a loose fitting.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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Determine where your leak is before you begin wholesale parts replacement. More often than not if it is a fairly big leak it is at the control valve. Unless the reservoir is cracked, P/S pumps usually weep more than leak, unless you over fill it in hwich case it will leak big time when the fluid gets warm.

There are three major components to the power steering system. Pump, Control Valve and Hydraulic Cylinder. None are particularly difficult to change, though in the case of the control valve and the cylinder you will need a pickle fork to separate items from the steering linkage. No problem changing anything with the front of the car on jack stands, removing the left wheel also helps. If changing the control valve it must be "balanced" when done. This is a simple task to set it's neutral position but it must be done or you will have some very strange steering pressures and tear up your new valve quickly. While you can rebuild your old valve yourself if you don't do this sort of thing regularly I would suggest just buying a control valve already overhauled.

Whatever component(s) you change, be sure to change the hoses as well unless you know for sure they are newer than 5 years old.

But first of all, find out what is leaking for sure.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:26 PM
  #5  
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this leak is BAD...if there's fluid in the car, you could trail me up the road by it. and it only leaks when the car is on and there's pressure behind it. it works great until it drains off the fluid and then it whines like a ford...its enough to make you cry, honestly. the guy i got the car from says that it isnt the PS pump, but a 'jack'...and i'm not so sure what he's talking about. i'm guessing that in order to see exactly where it's leaking, i'll have to put it on ramps, start it, and crawl under where the drizzle is. otherwise all it needs is the console replaced...which i thought might be a more fitting starting place for a beginner :P
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 08:38 PM
  #6  
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If it's that bad, I'd do a Jeep Box conversion - search the C3 Tech forum for details.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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Does anyone know how to "balance" the cylinder?
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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Default Balace the cylinder

Have to two front wheels off the ground.

When everything is put back together and filled with fluid (All air out of the system) Then

Remove the cap on the steering valve.

Have someone sit in the car and start it

There is a screw that you can turn clockwise and counter clockwise.

When the car is started the wheels are going to turn a little. If the wheels turn to the right, turn the screw counter clockwise. If the wheels turn to the left, turn the screw clockwise. Turn the car off.

Restart the car and see if the wheels move, if they don't the valve is set. If they do move turn the screw a touch more. Shut the car off

Restart the car, repeat the above steps until the wheels do not move.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by spedaleden
Have to two front wheels off the ground.

When everything is put back together and filled with fluid (All air out of the system) Then

Remove the cap on the steering valve.

Have someone sit in the car and start it

There is a screw that you can turn clockwise and counter clockwise.

When the car is started the wheels are going to turn a little. If the wheels turn to the right, turn the screw counter clockwise. If the wheels turn to the left, turn the screw clockwise. Turn the car off.

Restart the car and see if the wheels move, if they don't the valve is set. If they do move turn the screw a touch more. Shut the car off

Restart the car, repeat the above steps until the wheels do not move.
I would not do it that way, those wheels can turn and you can get your arm stuck real fast remove the steering ram from the bracket on the frame and adjut it until the ram stays centered, neither going out or pulling back in. this is much safer. dont ask how I found this out.
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