no one can patent that, it's been around forever.
electrolysis cleaning
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
electrolysis cleaning
long gone are the days of harsh chemicals, wirebrushing and smelly solvents.....
last couple of weeks ive been using a home made electrolysis cleaner and life has gotten SOOO much easier.
For those who have no idea what im talking about imagine this.
plastic tub of water. Add cup of Arm and Hammer "WASHING SODA" this is important that its Washing Soda (2.29 at Publix grocery) for every 5 gallons of water
get some rebar or a metal stake and clamp to side of tub (i used a 20 gallon tub)
get a small battery charger (im using a 50 amp) bigger, faster it works
connect the positive lead to the rebar/stake, connect the negative side to the part.
drop in waster and make sure rebar/stake and part do not touch. Turn on charger
Go back hour or so later (time depends on your part and how dirty it is), pull out part and most all of the paint and grease, and RUST, and grime has "fallen" off.
All the part needs now is a washing down with a SOS soap pad and it will look like new metal.
Ive done the whole front suspension and each piece looks like new with no solvents.....
Best part is i can pour the old water in the flower beds....
It works BETTER then you can imagine. Im still amazed
Disclaimer.....I havent found anything unsafe with this so far, but do at your own risk.
Comments?
last couple of weeks ive been using a home made electrolysis cleaner and life has gotten SOOO much easier.
For those who have no idea what im talking about imagine this.
plastic tub of water. Add cup of Arm and Hammer "WASHING SODA" this is important that its Washing Soda (2.29 at Publix grocery) for every 5 gallons of water
get some rebar or a metal stake and clamp to side of tub (i used a 20 gallon tub)
get a small battery charger (im using a 50 amp) bigger, faster it works
connect the positive lead to the rebar/stake, connect the negative side to the part.
drop in waster and make sure rebar/stake and part do not touch. Turn on charger
Go back hour or so later (time depends on your part and how dirty it is), pull out part and most all of the paint and grease, and RUST, and grime has "fallen" off.
All the part needs now is a washing down with a SOS soap pad and it will look like new metal.
Ive done the whole front suspension and each piece looks like new with no solvents.....
Best part is i can pour the old water in the flower beds....
It works BETTER then you can imagine. Im still amazed
Disclaimer.....I havent found anything unsafe with this so far, but do at your own risk.
Comments?
Last edited by JustForFun; Nov 14, 2006 at 07:56 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: Granbury TX
This proves that electrons actually move from Negative to Positive and that the Negative side of a battery is actually the "hot" side. The Electrons move from the Part to the rebar and take the crud with them. 
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I can't wait to try this. I'd think however that you should degrease parts first. Seems like a coating of grease would interfere with the current.
I've had pretty good luck soaking rusty cast iron parts in vinegar for 24 hours or so. The vinegar (acetic acid) etches the iron to get rid of rust, but does it so slowly that it doesn't damage the cast iron part.
I'll have to do a google to find out what washing soda is. Sodium Biphosphate maybe? Sodium bicarbonate is the stuff you put in bread dough.
I've had pretty good luck soaking rusty cast iron parts in vinegar for 24 hours or so. The vinegar (acetic acid) etches the iron to get rid of rust, but does it so slowly that it doesn't damage the cast iron part.
I'll have to do a google to find out what washing soda is. Sodium Biphosphate maybe? Sodium bicarbonate is the stuff you put in bread dough.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
It's the same way Cathodic Protection works on pipelines. An impressed current is applied, the result; a sacrificial anode, and protect the pipeline.
The rebar is the sacrificial anode, and the part is the cathode. Reverse the polarity and watch your parts corrode.
The rebar is the sacrificial anode, and the part is the cathode. Reverse the polarity and watch your parts corrode.
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,930
Likes: 156
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by Bangkok Dean
I wonder how it works on rust
See the posts following #10.
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...ad.php?t=89777
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,295
Likes: 30
From: one night in Bangkok you are never lonely
Originally Posted by Jughead
see
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,930
Likes: 156
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by Bangkok Dean
Thanks Len, I tyied it and it worked great on the rusty parts below
see
see
.....
It worked so well, they completely dissappeared.
Not even a red 
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
Originally Posted by JustForFun
Disclaimer.....I havent found anything unsafe with this so far, but do at your own risk?
Experiment before you try to clean that one of a kind part, especially alloys. Aluminum will disintegrate if left in the electrolyte too long. Plated parts can also be damaged.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Wonder how it would work useing a metal drum instead of the rebar thing?
Or what about multiple rebar shafts, clamped around the tub like markings on a clock? Then run a single hot wire, connecting them all, and the neg on the part. Wouldn't that create more paths and help erode the grime faster?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Or what about multiple rebar shafts, clamped around the tub like markings on a clock? Then run a single hot wire, connecting them all, and the neg on the part. Wouldn't that create more paths and help erode the grime faster?
However, I think "faster" would be limited by the current output from the source (battery charger).
Re: metal drum .... the steel is sacrificial and "melts" away.
Use a steel drum and return to a room full of washing soda solution.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I wonder...if you had a big enough tub, enough water and soda...could we dip our own bare engine blocks and heads too? Will it clean inside the water jacket and oil galleys? That'd be cool.