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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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ft laud mike's Avatar
ft laud mike
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I have jusr finished re-painting/ engine & trans rebuild on my 1970. Now I need to finish the interior. Question:I am switching to delux interior from regular(lthr seats/ different door skin) and changing color as well. To get the dash in the new color is$$$, can this part be successfully dyed? anyone done it?
I have already re-done the seats, the seat belts, and have amassed a small army of parts in the new color, but there is still a ton of stuff and it all costs a fortune.
thanks for any help/ input
mike
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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I used the SEMS interior dye system. It is basically a three part system that includes cleaning, prepping and then dyeing (painting). I did this on some interior trim pieces when I converted my '89 coupe from blue to black interior. Two years later, you would not have known any difference.

The primary issue with the dash is direct sunlight. Follow the instructions, clean it twice, prep it thoroughly and I bet you don't have a problem.

Good luck,
Dino
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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thanks for the input, was it hard/long to accomplish?
The parts that do not get much wear and tear (ie-top of dash/ t-tops) i will try this. I am wondering about parts that get rubbed/( center console) should be replaced?, or is this dye resistant to rubbing off?
thanks
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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I did mine and they look new, I went from blue to light saddle. corvette america dye.




the dash panels were originally blue
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stC3Vette
I used the SEMS interior dye system....

SEM is good stuff and available through most automotive paint suppliers.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 02:49 PM
  #6  
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From: Shelby Township Michigan
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Originally Posted by ft laud mike
thanks for the input, was it hard/long to accomplish?
The parts that do not get much wear and tear (ie-top of dash/ t-tops) i will try this. I am wondering about parts that get rubbed/( center console) should be replaced?, or is this dye resistant to rubbing off?
thanks
My work did not take long at all. I only had some small sections and pieces to do. None of it came in contact with other parts (seats, doors etc). As long as you do all the prep carefully, I don't think you will have a problem. On the flip side, I would keep an extra can or two of the dye around for touchups.

Good luck,
Dino
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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Default Part storage

One really, really important thing is you want to do is store the foam backed items, like your dash pad, in a non-humid environment for a couple of days prior to painting.

Otherwise, regardless of paint type, risk getting "bloom" and the dye not adhering to the surfaces as the moisture leeches out from beneath the dye when the temperature changes.

I only mention this because I noticed in your handle you are probably in a very humid environemnt. We actually have an automotive paint booth for our dye work to prevent that from happening.

And SEM is *top* quality stuff.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jimwca
One really, really important thing is you want to do is store the foam backed items, like your dash pad, in a non-humid environment for a couple of days prior to painting.

Otherwise, regardless of paint type, risk getting "bloom" and the dye not adhering to the surfaces as the moisture leeches out from beneath the dye when the temperature changes.

I only mention this because I noticed in your handle you are probably in a very humid environemnt. We actually have an automotive paint booth for our dye work to prevent that from happening.

And SEM is *top* quality stuff.
I did not have a problem with the humidity and I am 30 miles from the gulf coast. the dash and top pad are hard vinyl. I cleaned mine very good first with alcohol and then with laquer thinner. use lots of rags. then I primed with the corvette america primer and then painted. they look new. a dry enviroment couldn't hurt. that is just hard to find around here.
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