Dumb restoration question.....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
Dumb restoration question.....
Ok, so I jut got my frame back from powder coating, the trailing arms have been rebuilt, and the front spindles have been rebuilt. All of this was done by Van Steel by the way and they look great. Got the diff rebuilt too! 
My question is, what's the best way to go about cleaning up and reusing all the misc bolts that I took off the car thus far? I'm talking about stuff like control arm bolts/studs, brake line and fuel line clip screws, etc. All the stuff I want to put back on the frame now has old nasty hardware that I need to clean up.
I sand blasted some bolts the other day and now I'm left with bolts that are bare metal. Do I paint them now or coat them with something else? Or do they get replaced (doesn't seem right, and seems expensive).
I know this is a dumb question but I'm trying to come up with the best answer.
My question is, what's the best way to go about cleaning up and reusing all the misc bolts that I took off the car thus far? I'm talking about stuff like control arm bolts/studs, brake line and fuel line clip screws, etc. All the stuff I want to put back on the frame now has old nasty hardware that I need to clean up.
I sand blasted some bolts the other day and now I'm left with bolts that are bare metal. Do I paint them now or coat them with something else? Or do they get replaced (doesn't seem right, and seems expensive).
I know this is a dumb question but I'm trying to come up with the best answer.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
There aren't any dumb restoration questions, just dumb answers. 
You should probably paint or coat the hardware that you already sandblasted to keep it from rusting again. You can get a media tumbler - Harbor Freight had the best price that I have seen - to clean rust off bolts and other hardware without doing much damage to the parts. I would be a little concerned about sandblasting bolts unless you are using a really fine media. If you wear the threads down with harsh media the bolts might not hold properly.
You can also soak parts in plain old vinegar for a few days to get the rust off. I found it to work very well but the parts seem to glaze over with a rust-like hue almost immediately after they are washed off.
Rick B.
You should probably paint or coat the hardware that you already sandblasted to keep it from rusting again. You can get a media tumbler - Harbor Freight had the best price that I have seen - to clean rust off bolts and other hardware without doing much damage to the parts. I would be a little concerned about sandblasting bolts unless you are using a really fine media. If you wear the threads down with harsh media the bolts might not hold properly.
You can also soak parts in plain old vinegar for a few days to get the rust off. I found it to work very well but the parts seem to glaze over with a rust-like hue almost immediately after they are washed off.
Rick B.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: Media PA
Same question I am facing. I've done lots of different things. wire wheel mainly to clean them up, but your sand blasting sounds better. Then I painted some, just clear coated others, I even nickle plated some...that didn't go well. Eastwood sells many different dips, but they all say 6 months....I replaced the worst, the higher the grade bolt the less it will rust. cleaning them and some paint seems best so far.
I hope someone will share the easy, fast, cheap, no work method?
But it feels really good to be putting things together.
Chandler
I hope someone will share the easy, fast, cheap, no work method?
But it feels really good to be putting things together.
Chandler
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
So are you just painting the hardware prior to putting it back on (after cleaning it)? I was concerned about the paint just coming off the threads as I screw them back in. What kind of paint are you using?
I see HF has a tumbler for $60. How long does it take to clean bolts in one of these?
I see HF has a tumbler for $60. How long does it take to clean bolts in one of these?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
I used a wire wheel and this blackening kit from Eastwood on odd bolts that I couldn't buy new. They probably won't last long in the salt, but they look great. Also used their Zinc plating kit which works well also. If the bolts are readlly bad, AMK Products sells O.E. bolts listed by GM part numbers. Get the correct number from the AIM.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...roductID=12225
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...roductID=12225
Last edited by Duke94; Dec 1, 2006 at 07:44 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Find a plater and they can put the original black oxide "plating" on them like most of the originals had.
Degrease first and then acid dip for prep.
They charge by the pound or bucket size and you can probably get the whole car done for around 60 bucks.
Zinc plating isn't much either.
Degrease first and then acid dip for prep.
They charge by the pound or bucket size and you can probably get the whole car done for around 60 bucks.
Zinc plating isn't much either.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
I've done a couple frame-off resto's and had literally bags of hardware stacked up on more than one occasion.
Being it sounds like you are not doing a "correct" or NCRS type resto (powder coated frame) than I would get a kitchen strainer, throw in a bagfull, and sandblast the daylights out of them while shaking the strainer. Works great. I then punch them through a piece of cardboard (or lay them on it) and spray them either Eastwoods Zinc Coating or Black Phosphate. The stuff looks great and lasts. When you install them, they will still get a little tore up but a quick spritz and you are looking good again.
If you were looking to get it judged, I'd tell you to first make sure the hardware you have is the correct hardware (ie: headmarks, etc.). If not, I would just replace it anyway. Not cheap, it all adds up.
Good luck with the project.
Being it sounds like you are not doing a "correct" or NCRS type resto (powder coated frame) than I would get a kitchen strainer, throw in a bagfull, and sandblast the daylights out of them while shaking the strainer. Works great. I then punch them through a piece of cardboard (or lay them on it) and spray them either Eastwoods Zinc Coating or Black Phosphate. The stuff looks great and lasts. When you install them, they will still get a little tore up but a quick spritz and you are looking good again.
If you were looking to get it judged, I'd tell you to first make sure the hardware you have is the correct hardware (ie: headmarks, etc.). If not, I would just replace it anyway. Not cheap, it all adds up.
Good luck with the project.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
A non-original resto (powder-coated frame) and you're re-using old hardware? I've replaced every bolt in my suspension...probably spent $350 on Grade 8 hardware at ACE...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
I'm definitely not doing an original resto. It's an '81. While I enjoy looking at perfectly restored vettes and appreciate the work that went into them, a factory '81 with 190 HP leaves a lot to be desired. I'm changing it up a bit in an effort to build a killer street vette that will be driven regularly.
It's not that I can't spend the money for new hardware, it's that I'd rather spend that money on the other things such as the TKO-600 upgrade from automatic, the engine, the frame, etc. Now if I knew I could just go down to ACE and get all the hardware I needed rather than ordering it from a vette place, then that might make a difference! I figured they wouldn't have everything I needed but really haven't checked.
Thanks guys.
It's not that I can't spend the money for new hardware, it's that I'd rather spend that money on the other things such as the TKO-600 upgrade from automatic, the engine, the frame, etc. Now if I knew I could just go down to ACE and get all the hardware I needed rather than ordering it from a vette place, then that might make a difference! I figured they wouldn't have everything I needed but really haven't checked.
Thanks guys.
Last edited by ShinodaVette; Dec 2, 2006 at 10:16 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Maybe I'm paranoid, but I just don't trust old hardware.
I replaced every suspension nut/bolt/washer. Only stuff I reused were odd ball ones that I couldn't buy.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
Originally Posted by Duke94
I replaced every suspension nut/bolt/washer. Only stuff I reused were odd ball ones that I couldn't buy.I purchased complete suspension rebuild kits so I already have new hardware for the bulk of the suspension pieces. I also picked up the a-arm bolt kit from Ecklers. There are still a lot of other screws, bolts, nuts, etc. that I will need to clean up and put on the vette. The only major bolts that I do not currently have new replacements for are the ones that hold the diff carrier to the frame and the knurled studs that the upper a-arms bolt to. I suppose I could buy those to be on the safe side but am still left with a bunch of parts that need cleaning.
I picked up the HF tumbler today. It was on sale from $60 down to $40. I've started another thread about tumbler media to see what everybody has been using.
Thanks!!