Sandblasting ?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Waco TX
Sandblasting ?
I am planning to pull the body off of my car later this winter and would like some input on having my frame sandblasted versus chemically dipped.
It seems that having the frame dipped would strip the inside as well as the outside.
I would appreciate any input as well as any chemical dip facilities in the Dallas/Austin area.
It seems that having the frame dipped would strip the inside as well as the outside.
I would appreciate any input as well as any chemical dip facilities in the Dallas/Austin area.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 243
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From: KC Kansas
I sandblasted mine. Very messy process but well worth the time invested. Chem dip would be alot better. youre right, you would get the inside where the sand blasting wont. Chem dip is alot more expensive.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,957
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From: Chico Ca
I am an absolute fan of soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) blasting if you can find someone in your area it works perfectly and leaves the metal just like when it was new!
Last edited by Love My 72 and 77; Dec 3, 2006 at 01:59 AM.
Pro
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From: Vettemod.com For the C3 People
St. Jude Donor '06
Originally Posted by Love My 72 and 77
I am an absolute fan of soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) blasting if you can find someone in your area it works perfectly and leaves the metal just like when it was new!
The shop would use soda (baking soda), instead of sand or other blast media. Used to also remove paint from fiberglass, it is not as agressive as other methods.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 16
From: Fl
I had mine sand blasted - worked great. Gets the crud off better, but wil leave a rough surface. You will need to etch (zinc dichromate) then prime before painting. The primers will fill in any lite pitting from the sand blaster.
As far as soda blasting - less intrusive, but a eal PITA to clean up. It is sand balsting but using backing soda for the media. The stuff gets in EVERY nook and cranny - trust me.
You will need to soda blast all the pot metal parts if you are going to do any paint work on the body.
I put a post up last night showing the frame rsto on my car so far. It was primed/painted after sand blasting.
Good luck - bunch of work, but definitely worth it.
Bill
As far as soda blasting - less intrusive, but a eal PITA to clean up. It is sand balsting but using backing soda for the media. The stuff gets in EVERY nook and cranny - trust me.
You will need to soda blast all the pot metal parts if you are going to do any paint work on the body.
I put a post up last night showing the frame rsto on my car so far. It was primed/painted after sand blasting.
Good luck - bunch of work, but definitely worth it.
Bill
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 364
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From: Winder GA.
soda
There is a guy near me (I am 1/2 way between Atlanta and Athens, GA) that does soda blasting for $135/compressor hour. He says he has not had a Vette go over $1000.
Just FYI
I think he is called Nutech and has a website,
Just FYI
I think he is called Nutech and has a website,
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Waco TX
Thanks for the info everyone. I'm leaning toward having the frame chemically dipped to get rid of the stuff inside the frame. Anyone know of a chem-dip place in Dallas or Austin? I'll likely have the suspension parts blasted and there are plenty of suitable places close by but I have not had much luck finding a place to have the frame dipped.
Trying to get everything figured out so I can, pull the body, disassemble, haul everything off, get it back, paint etc... in as short a time as possible. I'm hoping for two months or so start to finish on the frame from the point I pull the body until I am ready to reassemble.
Trying to get everything figured out so I can, pull the body, disassemble, haul everything off, get it back, paint etc... in as short a time as possible. I'm hoping for two months or so start to finish on the frame from the point I pull the body until I am ready to reassemble.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Waco TX
I have been driving past a place that advertises sandblasting for several months. I stopped today out of curiosity. I told the guy that I have a Vette frame that I would like to have blasted in about a month or two and inquired about the cost. He said $125.00. He showed me a Chevelle frame in progress. It looked nice and I could not believe the price.
Thoughts? Advice? For the money, I might change my mind about chemical dipping versus blasting.
Thoughts? Advice? For the money, I might change my mind about chemical dipping versus blasting.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
From: Northeast Ohio
125 is a steal. If you are going to use something like POR 15 before you top coat then sandblasting gives it a very rough surface to hold onto. I do all of my parts and them just topcoat with whatever you want. Eastwood chassis black looks very good.
Thread Starter
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From: Waco TX
125 is a steal. If you are going to use something like POR 15 before you top coat then sandblasting gives it a very rough surface to hold onto. I do all of my parts and them just topcoat with whatever you want. Eastwood chassis black looks very good.
DBOZ, you raise another good question. I had planned to use POR 15 as my "only" coat. Are you saying that you use it as a primer and Eastwood chassis black as your topcoat?
I want to make sure that I get it right the first time.
Scott
DBOZ, you raise another good question. I had planned to use POR 15 as my "only" coat. Are you saying that you use it as a primer and Eastwood chassis black as your topcoat?
I want to make sure that I get it right the first time.
Scott
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
The most serious rust problems on C2/C3 frames (or any frame) is that they rust from the inside out. The frame retains corrosives (AKA salt etc) and moisture on the inside... perfect conditions for oxidation (rust). Surface rust, although ugly, is not the thing to be concerned about. The "bubbly" stuff is the enemy. For every square inch of bubbly rust-through, there are 144 square inches of "almost bubbly" rust behind it waiting to come through.
Media blasting does not/cannot reach the pocketed areas of the frame where the most damage is done.
Although media blasting is better than nothing, dipping is the only way to get to the pocketed areas of the frame where the damage is likely to be the most severe.
I was born/raised in Syracuse NY AKA "Salt City". Ask me how I know.
Media blasting does not/cannot reach the pocketed areas of the frame where the most damage is done.
Although media blasting is better than nothing, dipping is the only way to get to the pocketed areas of the frame where the damage is likely to be the most severe.
I was born/raised in Syracuse NY AKA "Salt City". Ask me how I know.
Thread Starter
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From: Waco TX
I keep thinking about whatever rust there might be on the inside of the frame. Fortunately, mine looks pretty good though I have yet to remove the body for a complete inspection. I'm still thinking about having my frame dipped even though the $125.00 deal is too good to be true.
Last call, does anyone know where I can get my frame dipped in Texas? Dallas or Austin would be best based on my location.
Last call, does anyone know where I can get my frame dipped in Texas? Dallas or Austin would be best based on my location.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 156
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From: Oakdale Ct
It sounds like you have made up your mind to get it dipped... but here is an idea...
I am on a serious budget so I'm always looking for ways to get my project finished and not break the bank at the same time. SOOO... I built my sandblaster out of two old propane tanks (from a junkyard) and some spare stuff I had laying around. (it was a good opportunity to use my MIG welder which my wife says was a waste of money). Blasting slag is 10 bucks for a hundred pound bag. Built mine to the same specs as one in the Eastwood catalog for 400 dollars. So.. I saved a few bucks and it was a fun project..
I am on a serious budget so I'm always looking for ways to get my project finished and not break the bank at the same time. SOOO... I built my sandblaster out of two old propane tanks (from a junkyard) and some spare stuff I had laying around. (it was a good opportunity to use my MIG welder which my wife says was a waste of money). Blasting slag is 10 bucks for a hundred pound bag. Built mine to the same specs as one in the Eastwood catalog for 400 dollars. So.. I saved a few bucks and it was a fun project..
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Plastic blasting media
I had my '80 media blasted. Plastic media takes the paint off down to bare glass and filler but does not pit like sand or other. It's reusable too. I have a pail of it left over. I think it is the urea type (vs. acrylic or melamine).
There are lots of links about it including:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/.../0409cr_blast/
http://www.automedia.com/Paint/Strip...es20020901ps/1
PM me if you're interested.
There are lots of links about it including:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/.../0409cr_blast/
http://www.automedia.com/Paint/Strip...es20020901ps/1
PM me if you're interested.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Waco TX
I found a place in Dallas, MetalRehab.com, that dips frames etc... I spoke to them today by phone. Thier process has two steps. The first is soaking the frame in water soluable stripper for several days followed by pressure washing. Step two is some type of electrolysis tank that removes any oxides (rust). They paint the inside and outside of the frame with epoxy primer after they are done for an additional fee. Around $600.00 for the whole thing.
I plan to go by to see an example of thier work the next time that I am in the Dallas area.
I plan to go by to see an example of thier work the next time that I am in the Dallas area.
