I'm going to start rebuilding my '69 vette and I'm thinking about fabricating a roll cage, but I don't know how. Can somebody help me with instructions and some tips to get’ it right?
Does it goes before I rebuild it or after the body is on?

I appreciate your comments
Thank you very much.

 

look on ebay for an older copy of the Chevy Power book...one with the Corvette section.
...redvetracr

 

If you don't know how, then find someone who does. The reason is twofold for a roll cage - improved structural integrity and safety.

It is a lot like the $5 helmet for a $5 head line of thought.

Look in the Yellow Pages phone book under Automobiles, Racing, and see what pops up. No doubt any place that does can point you to a local roll cage builder.

And no matter how much people suggest not to, use roll bar padding. The real stuff, not pipe insulation. This is ESPECIALLY true in a street car.

Would you want someone to hit you in the head with a steel pipe? Without the padding, that is exactly what you may end up doing.

 

I think there is a company that makes them that fit relitively well. TwinTurbo knows the company im talking about.

 

http://www.autopowerindustries.com/Application_List.htm

 

Has somebody custom made one roll bar?,
I need some ideas so I can weld one together.
I live in mexico and its a big problem for parts

 

Go to www.scca.com and access the General Competition Rules (GCR). There is a section on Roll Cages that will give you minimum material sizes. I believe it is 2.0 inch diameter and .120 inch thick walls for mild steel tubing in a roll cage.

A roll bar has to be stronger, and I believe the old requirement was 2.5 inch diameter for the main hoop of a roll bar.

I don't know if they post the Historic GCR there or not. It had the old roll bar requirements from pre 1980.

It is best to use gas shielded welding to prevent embrittlement of the welds. Many use MIG or TIG to make them.

The main hoop is required to be one piece from floor to floor. You don't splice it anywhere.

Gusset all junctions of the tubing, like where the rear braces come to the main hoop. The rear braces should be as high on the hoop as you can get. Ideally, they will connect at the top of the hoop as far to the outside as possible.

Two front braces should ideally attach the same way.

A lower cross brace near the base of the hoop will help stiffen and support the chasssis. Then you need a diagonal brace across the hoop. Many used an X.

If you weld to the frame, you can avoid the base plate requirements. In the floor of metal cars, you need to have a 6 inch square plate to weld the hoop to. That is 6 inch square, 6 inches on each side, not 6 sq. in. which is really small. However, that is worthless on a fiberglass floor.

You don't mention coupe or convertible. You will need to cut the decklid on the convertible to get the rear braces back far enough and high enough. These lids are about $200 - $300 today in the US so you may want to find a damaged one to cut or make a copy by laying out a fiberglass mold over yours.

Coupes don't let the roll bar get as high as they should be. In real racing, it is supposed to be 2 inches higher than your helmet. That is minimum. If you have ever seen how far you can stretch under shock, you would want more like 24 inches over your head, but that isn't an option.

Good luck.



Here is your best bet.

Roll Bar Kit, 63-82 Corvette, 8 point.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Roll-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

S&W Race Cars. Not exact but works... KNOW THE RULES OF YOUR SANCTIONING ORGANIZATION !!

 

thank you all for the help, very appreciated

 

I have a S&W kit also, doesn't fit, I only used the main hoop the way it came supplied but had to cut it too to fit, the rest doesn't git at all...but my kit is completely different from 84zvr500...I have no ide why. I custom made the rest.






Chris Alston (cachassisworks) also has a C3 kit, as do some others. Have no idea of the fit of those.

 

For the posted examples; it looks like the rear down tubes are going to the differential crossmember instead of the frame rail in the area of the shock mount. is this correct? thanx

 

They should go in or close to the area of the shock mount but the diff crossmember is close enough.

I don't see anyone using tubes down to the pinion, didn't they come with the kit? I mean the diagonal ones going to the pinion area:


Here's my cage design:

 

Because I complained about the fit and they said send "us drawings of what you need" and they bent it and sent it to my specs for VERY little money.

I have the pinion pieces and a main hoop diagonal and all of the X bracing...

 

Nice design they look awesome. Did you cut the fiber glass to weld it to the frame or did you just screw it down.

 

3-4" hole saw... Welded to the frame.

 

and what do you use to fill de hole again, cover it whit fiber glass or rubber or just leave it like that

 

I havent yet. I have two choices... I saved the cutouts and canglass them back in...

I also bought a sheet/roll of aircraft engine baffle material which is 1/8 high temp silicone with fiberglass reinfocement through the center.

When I get closer to finishing the interior I'll decide...

 

COOL ........how did you do that ?

 

Just like TT said, I've heard from multiple people that the ready made ones don't fit well.

 

SolidWorks 2007