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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #21  
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Here you go



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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #22  
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[QUOTE=Gordonm]Here you go



HERES MINE :




F.Y.I
heres a few things to notice, look at my vin portion, it's darker on the bottom, then twards the top, so it was hammered on an angle with more pressure on the bottom, now look at my date portion, it's hammered lighter from left to darker to the right & consistant on all letters & numbers left to right & on the vin all are consistant lighter on top darker on bottom, as they were all hammered together, in some restamps the numbers & letters are hammered individually & will have different depths some lighter & others darker / heavery then others thats something to watch for too......
hard to see his broach marks as the pad is painted, might be easier to spot a fake UNPAINTED !!!
Thanks for taking the time to post GORDON !!

ZIXXX PACKER

Last edited by 427SIXPACK; Dec 4, 2006 at 10:10 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:11 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by international blue
350 cube 3970010 blocks are generally good to keep especially if they are 4 bolt blocks...
that's the block casting on mine . it's also a great engine especially with the 5speed behind it . I'm also glad i kept the 336 rear end it makes going 70 mph no problem at 1900 rpm.
ntq
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 10:22 PM
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My ser. numbers are to perfect to be an original stamp. Tough to see in the pictures with paint but after looking at yours they are the legit thing. Mine are to good to be factory.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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"RESTAMP"
FROM GORDONM


Last edited by 427SIXPACK; Dec 4, 2006 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 09:50 AM
  #26  
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Default Restamp

Actually the numbers look very good. Are the correct metal stamps had to locate?

Gordon: I am confused, are your numbers original? I appreciate the narrative concerning the difference in depth and the angle of the stamp.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalErv
Actually the numbers look very good. Are the correct metal stamps had to locate?

Gordon: I am confused, are your numbers original? I appreciate the narrative concerning the difference in depth and the angle of the stamp.
Those are the original numbers for sure. Not the original block. It is correctly date coded so the numbers are all correct for the car.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 12:54 AM
  #28  
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Gordon, let me translate, and of course let me know if I am wrong. My understanding is the original numbers on that pad are long gone. Your father knew exactly what those numbers were, and he had them restamped on the pad. So the letters and numbers on there now are the right numbers and letters but they are not the original ones. And since they were not made by the GM factory tools, they are maybe slightly smaller than original (or larger) or shaped slightly different, and they are lined up straighter than the original. Is that clear? You know your vin, your vin indicates the car as an original LT-1, so you would know exactly what the stamp should be anyway, but your father maybe had it written down and then restamped it from memory.

So your photograph is showing us your restamp of the original numbers. Is that right?
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:17 AM
  #29  
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This is always an interesting subject. Mine got painted over by previous owner in prep for auction. All it would have taken was a piece of masking tape, so now I gotta do the Q-Tip and brake fluid thing (winter project). The numbers are C11S114491 V0330CJL and vehicle assembly date is April 13, 1971. Every reason to believe it's numbers correct/matching, but I also realize it's low value. Precious to me though
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I (all of us?) appreciate the comparison photos. Thanks.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 06:08 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by PRNDL
Gordon, let me translate, and of course let me know if I am wrong. My understanding is the original numbers on that pad are long gone. Your father knew exactly what those numbers were, and he had them restamped on the pad. So the letters and numbers on there now are the right numbers and letters but they are not the original ones. And since they were not made by the GM factory tools, they are maybe slightly smaller than original (or larger) or shaped slightly different, and they are lined up straighter than the original. Is that clear? You know your vin, your vin indicates the car as an original LT-1, so you would know exactly what the stamp should be anyway, but your father maybe had it written down and then restamped it from memory.

So your photograph is showing us your restamp of the original numbers. Is that right?

Correct. That is exactly it.
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 04:51 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Carl Granquist
This is always an interesting subject. Mine got painted over by previous owner in prep for auction. All it would have taken was a piece of masking tape, so now I gotta do the Q-Tip and brake fluid thing (winter project). The numbers are C11S114491 V0330CJL and vehicle assembly date is April 13, 1971. Every reason to believe it's numbers correct/matching, but I also realize it's low value. Precious to me though
Attachment 47601751
I (all of us?) appreciate the comparison photos. Thanks.
Why do you say "I also realize it's low value"? Shouldn't the value be greater since it is a matching number car?
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 04:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SoCalErv
Why do you say "I also realize it's low value"? Shouldn't the value be greater since it is a matching number car?
Carl Granquit and Gordonm:

I still do not understand why this vehicle would be of low value if indeed it is a matching numbers car. Are you saying it is not a matching numbers car? Are you saying because it is a small block there is no value? I am lost, a state of mind in which I am very comfortable with
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 06:35 PM
  #33  
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Responded to you PM
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SoCalErv
I would think a non-matching original engine would be worth more than a crate. Hell in a 69 vehicle you have preserved it for 37 years.

Look at this quote. A non matching original motor. How can it be original if it is non matching. There is only one original motor. Might have all the correct components but it is still non matching.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 10:17 PM
  #35  
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I think he means it is a Corvette motor just not the one it came with.
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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GordonM

Thanks for your comments. They are valued and appreciated.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:12 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by SoCalErv
GordonM

Thanks for your comments. They are valued and appreciated.
You got my personal feelings in my PM. Not all here share the same feelings. Have fun with the car it is yours to do what you want.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 12:04 PM
  #38  
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Only ONE decision to make:ZZ502/502



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