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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 07:56 PM
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Default OT-Any electricians here?

If so please PM me a phone #...i have a question abuot a Hot Tub wiring
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JustForFun
If so please PM me a phone #...i have a question abuot a Hot Tub wiring
post it here maybe we know something.

I'm not an electrician only an electrical engineer but i might be able to help
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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Friend is trying to install his hot tub. Set jumpers to 120 setting, however motor seems to be turning slower then it should and after 2-3 minutes if that long, trips out and resets after minute or so.

Looking for hints on what to look for.

Also....Big question is.....If its because of voltage drop...Can this harm motor? How quickly. I think major issue he has is its too much of voltage drop. How can we check that?
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JustForFun
Friend is trying to install his hot tub. Set jumpers to 120 setting, however motor seems to be turning slower then it should and after 2-3 minutes if that long, trips out and resets after minute or so.

Looking for hints on what to look for.

Also....Big question is.....If its because of voltage drop...Can this harm motor? How quickly. I think major issue he has is its too much of voltage drop. How can we check that?
normally the motor has to be rewired to change from 240 to 120v operation. What size and how long is his wire?

Make sure you run a dedicated ground wire in conjunction with the GFCI. Nessecary to prevent electrocution. Electricity and water don't mix.



Check the voltage at the hot tub before and during the motor start. I hope he's not trying to use an extention cord. You need something like #8 wire depending on the hp of the motor/motors and wattage of the heating element.

Last edited by turtlevette; Dec 13, 2006 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
normally the motor has to be rewired to change from 240 to 120v operation. What size and how long is his wire?

Check the voltage at the hot tub before and during the motor start. I hope he's not trying to use an extention cord. You need something like #8 wire depending on the hp of the motor/motors and wattage of the heating element.
He has a heavier duty drop cord that he cut the end off of, its about 20 feet. His intention was to "temp" use this to get system pumping until the electrician can run the cord sat. I think they told him they were going to use 8/2 or 6/2 wire....might have been 8/3 or 6/3

Can this cause any damage and how quickly? Hes already worried hes broke something
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JustForFun
He has a heavier duty drop cord that he cut the end off of, its about 20 feet. His intention was to "temp" use this to get system pumping until the electrician can run the cord sat. I think they told him they were going to use 8/2 or 6/2 wire....might have been 8/3 or 6/3

Can this cause any damage and how quickly? Hes already worried hes broke something
The motor is self protecting. Just don't keep starting over and over. It'll be ok.

if he does get it running, keep the kids out of it for the time being. The lighter duty cord might be enough to run the motor on slow speed and heat the water, but i wouldn't turn the jets on.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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Tell your friend not to fool with it.
If it has electric heat, you need at least #6 wire and ground and bond wires and in most areas a gfi interupt.

Not for a temporary drop cord.

People get electrocuted.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
The motor is self protecting. Just don't keep starting over and over. It'll be ok.

if he does get it running, keep the kids out of it for the time being. The lighter duty cord might be enough to run the motor on slow speed and heat the water, but i wouldn't turn the jets on.
I don't know how many watt's total he drawing, but when you run the motor at 110 instead of 220, the current draw increases. I would guess that his 20' cord is creating too much resistance to run the motor and heaters. I would use at least 10awg cord to feed power.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:28 PM
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There is no way a braided copper extension cord will do the trick. You need solid copper wire. Shouldn't it be 240 Volt, not 120. Those motors are pretty large and you throw in a heating element, your talking some amps.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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I am an electrician
Tell him to leave it alone, Saturday is not far away at all.
I hope his electrician does'nt charge him too much extra for fixing his tampering with it.
Also let the electrician know what all your friend has done to it, that way when something does screw up, his electrician should not be blamed with your friend wanting him to pay for it.

I charge a reasonable price to fix your stuff.
I charge even more if I have to fix your screwups and then continue on to fix your stuff.
I can't tell you how many times I'v heard "well, I all did was........."
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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Most spa motors draw around 9 amps 220v
Then there is an air blower around 3 amps 220v
The most common elec heaters are in 2 sizes, around 5kw and around 11kw 220v.

No one can give you any advice if they don't have the specs.

You can fry someone or fry your equipment, so I would suggest not experimenting.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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I always charge another $75 to undo the bubba parts before proceeding with a proper electrical install.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
Most spa motors draw around 9 amps 220v
Then there is an air blower around 3 amps 220v
The most common elec heaters are in 2 sizes, around 5kw and around 11kw 220v.

No one can give you any advice if they don't have the specs.

You can fry someone or fry your equipment, so I would suggest not experimenting.
I think my hot tub sub panel has a 30 amp GFI breaker in it. I would guess because of the spike at start up.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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everyone above is telling you right, there is no way that thing is running on an extension cord. As soon as the pump starts and proves flow the heater will energize and the voltage will drop too low.
what I didn't see mentioned above is that the electronics on most of these tubs are very sensitive and very expensive so wait until you get it right.

a couple of months ago lightning took out my board and lightning arrestor. The parts were right at $700
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Budman78
I think my hot tub sub panel has a 30 amp GFI breaker in it. I would guess because of the spike at start up.
I use a 60 amp breaker, but I have a 11kw heater. Think I use # 4 wire.
Don't have any electronics, just wired mine with 3 separate air switches.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 10:21 PM
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Hes gonna wait until sat....I think hes gonna be ok.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by noonie
I use a 60 amp breaker, but I have a 11kw heater. Think I use # 4 wire.
Don't have any electronics, just wired mine with 3 separate air switches.
Just went out and looked at it. There's a 30 and a 20 amp breaker. Now all I need is a Hot Tub. Actually, I stole that power and used for a sub panel in my garage to run my 220 compressor and Mig. Looks like whomever own the house before me had a hot tub next to the pool.
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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30 yrs local 134 chicago, most hot tubs are 220 volt at 50 amps,some are 60 , you need a gfi breaker either in your panel, or if its full and you dont want to pay for a bigger one(can go 32 circuts in chicago,,,,code was 20 circuts before) you can get a small inclosure with the gfi breaker..but code says you can come off mains only with double lugs at main,,cant loosen main and sneak in the # 8's. after running the pipe to the hot tub (3 # 8's---50 amp will fit in a 1/2''conduit,,,i would run a 3/4 and add a ground.... after pipe is in the area of hot tub you'll need a disconect at the tub,,get one rated for 250 volt 60 amp...then run seal tite to the unit and trim the contactor thats it,there should be a data plate on the unit telling you if its 50 or 60 amp,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,carl........carlclu b@comcast.net if you have any further questions
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