PS Performance
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio TX
Adding more caster will cause the steering to feel less "loose". I have mine maxed out as far as possible. Any more, and it starts to affect the rest of the geometry. Very stable at speed, but still very responsive.
I've also fabricated and installed a spreader bar that has made a difference, although with the 15" tires, it's probably not as noticeable as if I had 17" or 18".
I've also fabricated and installed a spreader bar that has made a difference, although with the 15" tires, it's probably not as noticeable as if I had 17" or 18".
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Adding more caster will cause the steering to feel less "loose". I have mine maxed out as far as possible. Any more, and it starts to affect the rest of the geometry. Very stable at speed, but still very responsive.
I've also fabricated and installed a spreader bar that has made a difference, although with the 15" tires, it's probably not as noticeable as if I had 17" or 18".
I've also fabricated and installed a spreader bar that has made a difference, although with the 15" tires, it's probably not as noticeable as if I had 17" or 18".
Oooh...post pics of your spreader bar.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio TX
It ain't real pretty, but it's solid and functional. Sorry for the picture quality, I can't get the camera to focus in there!
I just used junk I found laying around, except the heim joints, about 7 bucks each at Grainger.
Made it out of 1/4 T6 aluminum, ~1" OD SS DOM pipe with about a 1/16" wall. Center drilled two 2.5" lengths of ~1" OD aluminum rod, ~1.5" deep, then tapped them for the heim joints. Put them on the drill press and milled them down for a good press fit into the tubing. Then I milled a 1/2" wide groove about 1/2 inch from the solid end. Press fit the tapped rods into the tubing and used a BFG to swage the tubing into the groove.
Used my jigsaw with a metal blade to cut the alumium brackets. Used an abrasive cutoff wheel on my sliding miter saw for the tubing and rod.
I just used junk I found laying around, except the heim joints, about 7 bucks each at Grainger.
Made it out of 1/4 T6 aluminum, ~1" OD SS DOM pipe with about a 1/16" wall. Center drilled two 2.5" lengths of ~1" OD aluminum rod, ~1.5" deep, then tapped them for the heim joints. Put them on the drill press and milled them down for a good press fit into the tubing. Then I milled a 1/2" wide groove about 1/2 inch from the solid end. Press fit the tapped rods into the tubing and used a BFG to swage the tubing into the groove.
Used my jigsaw with a metal blade to cut the alumium brackets. Used an abrasive cutoff wheel on my sliding miter saw for the tubing and rod.
Last edited by cchristo; Jan 4, 2007 at 06:16 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
R&P too low??
The lowest point on the whole R&P system is 1/4" below my stock GM 350 HO crate oil pan and 1/4" above the lowest point of my suspension.
