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Lug Stud Replacement

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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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Default Lug Stud Replacement HELP!

Quick Question:

(I have a 1980 automatic FYI)

I have 2 lug nut studs stripped on the rear left wheel that need to be replaced. I have new lug nuts and studs, enough to replace all 5 studs. I've gotten the rotor off (an adventure to itself that ended with a heavy object wacking it loose due to rust that PB blaster just couldn't completely free) and now I need to figure out how to either get the studs out of the hub without removing the parking brake or get the parking brake off. I can't figure out how to even adjust the parking brake tension. I can't see the screw my manual mentions for tightening it. Any assistance would be appreciated and if anyone has pics they always help!

Appreciate all the help guys!




Last edited by Bongaroo; Jan 12, 2007 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Here's a picture:



On a side note, anyone know where to look to find a GM service manual?
I'm finding what look to be some good deals on ebay, many people have success with that?

::dang thats a really dark picture, I'll try again in a bit::

Last edited by Bongaroo; Jan 13, 2007 at 10:23 AM. Reason: because i'm a n00b
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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The stock PB star wheel is at 6:00 o'clock on the plate. It is most likely rust seized. Removing the hdwr requires removing the springs probably also rusted. The stud can be replaced on the car but you'll have to cut out a hole in the plate to give you room. When they are in the shape yours are in I rebuild the whole thing, but that costs more then trying to replace the PB hdwr or studs so give it a shot. Forget about trying to remove the spindle to replace them as you will then need to rebuild them.
I do these all the time for guys so if you have any questions let me know.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 01:38 PM
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This is why I said the hell with it & ordered 2 new offset TA from Van Steel. Sure it costs some bucks, but now I have SS emergency brakes and all new TA. I'm not worrying about this ever again.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bongaroo
Here's a picture:



On a side note, anyone know where to look to find a GM service manual?
I'm finding what look to be some good deals on ebay, many people have success with that?

::dang thats a really dark picture, I'll try again in a bit::
eBay.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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Dang. I figured this would be a cheap easy fix...goes to show you. What plate will I need to cut exactly? Also I'm not seeing the PB star nut at 6o'clock at all.

I'm stuggling to see how this thing is even held on. Do the service manuals have a lot of assembly drawings, because those always help me grasp the situation a lot clearer.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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The shop manual is only $59 on ebay - it's a reprint.

I think you can get the studs out at either 4 or 8 o'clock position - if it doesn't work you'll have to cut the dust shield and bend it out of the way.
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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lol, thanks and whos the woman with the large...... tracks of land?

I won't feel bad about chopping up the dust shield, when I read cut the plate I was thinking he meant the hub!

Anyone have some good shots of what to be looking for to get this PB off while I wait for the shop manual to arrive?

Last edited by Bongaroo; Jan 15, 2007 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:40 AM
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I just enlarged one of the slots on the brake plate and lined the broken stud to the slot. BFH to get the broken one out, lug nut to pull the new one in. My p-brake springs were also broken, so I removed/replaced this hardware at the same time. I did it with the rotor still on the car....
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by justanotherdoe
I just enlarged one of the slots on the brake plate and lined the broken stud to the slot. BFH to get the broken one out, lug nut to pull the new one in. My p-brake springs were also broken, so I removed/replaced this hardware at the same time. I did it with the rotor still on the car....
I mostly follow, but I am a little confused about what plate you are referring to, did you have to widen the holes the stud runs through and use something to make the new stud fit tightly? If you have any pictures I would appreciate it.

Again, this forum rocks. I love not having to waste my time reading trolls and flames.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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In your photo, it is the big U-shaped plate on the other side of the p-brake shoes from the spindle. No changes are made to the spindle itself.

A broken stud might fit between the spindle and the plate, but a new one will be too long to get through the stud hole with the plate in the way. So you either need to press the spindle out of the bearing support (and replace the bearings), or cut a hole in the plate to put the stud through the spindle from behind.

I made one of the existing holes in the plate a bit longer so the stud could be pushed through.

Last edited by justanotherdoe; Jan 15, 2007 at 02:59 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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I'm seeing it now, the plate your referring to is the dust shield right? The U in it is where the caliper was attached. I have no problem cutting that up a little bit. Is it not removable once you've removed the PB hardware?

I'm not finding the PB star wheel at all. At 12 o'clock there is what looks like a bolt with some kind of metal sticking out the sides and folded over on the top. If I can remove the springs will the assembly come apart? I can certainly reach the springs and if not pull them off at least cut them. Not trying to bubba the job, but with a body off restoration planned to start next year it would be nice to get it driving instead of sitting till than.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Dust shield, right.

There should be another spring at 6 oclock and a notched bolt like piece holding the lower shoes apart against the lower spring. This is the pb star.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MYBAD79
The shop manual is only $59 on ebay - it's a reprint.

I think you can get the studs out at either 4 or 8 o'clock position - if it doesn't work you'll have to cut the dust shield and bend it out of the way.
If you intend to keep your Vette for some time the shop manual will be your best investment. This is money well spent.
Good Luck

By the way the emergency brake shoes are taken off through the holes that are located between two of the studs. A pair of needle nose pliers with a 1/8 inch blunt nose will work to turn the attaching pin 1/4 turn. Working with the emergency brake springs does require some patience.
Good Luck
Steve
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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Both pads on this side are shot. Someone must of gotten a kick outta haulin back on the e-brake for some rear slides, much to my happiness

I'm going to spend a six pack and few hours after work today and get that PB off.
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