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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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Default trans leak

79 with 350 turbo. trans fluid appears to be leaking from around the trans control lever just above the pan. any easy fix for this?
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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There is a seal on the selector shaft. Dirt and goo get on the shaft and eat the seal. There's a little tool to R & R the seal without pulling the tranny pan. Seal is $3.00 or so. Tool is around $15.

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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:39 AM
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got a source for the tool and seal?
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:24 PM
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anybody?
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:30 PM
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I got my seal at autozone. Like TimAt said only around 3 or 4 dollars. I pulled my pan and disconnected the shift lever and removed it and got a screwdriver in and popped it out and drove the new seal in with a deep well socket. As far as the tool goes it would make the job real simple. Check with a local independantly owned or family owned transmission shop in Sat. and maybe they can loan you the tool for just a deposit. Even if you remove the pan no special tools required. Good luck
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 08:35 PM
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does the "seal" have a name other than trans seal or trans lever seal???

also, how can you install it without pulling the pan? does it press in from the outside?

thanks for the info.
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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I plan on doing that job on my 73 this week. I brought the seal the other day...Its refered to as the 'selector shaft seal'.I didn't know there was a specific tool to get the seal out.
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 10:06 PM
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I have actually got a National Oil Seal parts book in front of me now. The National part number for the seal is 8792s I would think that you could get it at any auto shop. Common size.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 12:06 AM
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The tool part number is

KD 2393

K-D tools. I see them in auto parts stores all the time. Saves dropping the tranny pan.

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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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The seal does drive in from the outside. I used a deep well socket the diameter size of the new seal and just drive it in with the hammer and socket just make sure it is going in straight. I guarantee you when it is all done with you will say that wasnt a bad job.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 08:37 AM
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For those that pull the pan and shift shaft, take a file and smooth the end of the shaft before sliding shaft out. Makes for easy removal and doesn't scratch the bore when removing. For those using the tool, put the seal over the shaft by hand and push/twist gently past the flats so the new seal isn't damaged. Also, recommend a little weatherstrip adhesive on seal after cleaning case. Stop driving seal as soon as it hits home, hammer in too much will crush seal.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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are you talking about the detent cable? if so just unbolt it and pull it out a little and put blue RTV gasket sealent on it.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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i'm talking about the tranmission control lever, just above the pan on the drivers side near front of pan. lever which controls what gear your in. are you saying putting RTV in the "groove" will stop the leak??? is this reliable?
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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more questions come to mind. is this seal an O-ring or something like it. i don't see anything but a metal lever and shaft on mine. sure would appreciate a pic of what this is supposed to look like once installed.
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by greyghost79
i'm talking about the tranmission control lever, just above the pan on the drivers side near front of pan. lever which controls what gear your in. are you saying putting RTV in the "groove" will stop the leak??? is this reliable?
the rtv sealent i was talking about was only for around the detent cable housing
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by greyghost79
more questions come to mind. is this seal an O-ring or something like it. i don't see anything but a metal lever and shaft on mine. sure would appreciate a pic of what this is supposed to look like once installed.
The shaft seal is a metal clad seal. Looks like timing cover seal only much smaller. A deep well/thin wall chrome 1/2" Craftsman socket works nicely for installing it. Tap lightly until it bottoms out then stop.



read these also for more info

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1596278

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1596278
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 11:31 AM
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o.k. picked up the seal at Autozone today. it has a flat side and a grooved side. which side goes in to the trans. that is, which side should be facing to the outside, the flush or the groove??? thanks.

also, my dual exhaust siits about two inches in front of the seal area. so tapping in may be a problem. any problem with stacking washers in front of the seal and "pressing" in by tightening the shaft nut?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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I got the same problem!
I may just attempt it myself with all this info.
Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by greyghost79
o.k. picked up the seal at Autozone today. it has a flat side and a grooved side. which side goes in to the trans. that is, which side should be facing to the outside, the flush or the groove??? thanks.

also, my dual exhaust siits about two inches in front of the seal area. so tapping in may be a problem. any problem with stacking washers in front of the seal and "pressing" in by tightening the shaft nut?


anybody?
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by greyghost79
anybody?
The 'flush' side of the seal, as you called it, should face outwards. The 'groove' side of an oilseal should always face the oil or substance that is being contained. Not sure bout the washes as a press though??? Maybe someone else could advise.
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