Tranny install. Is it physically possible to...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Tranny install. Is it physically possible to...
Install a muncie this way:
1. By yourself.
2. Bellhousing on tranny.
3. Front trans mount removed from crossmember.
I have tried and it appears I will have to have a floor jack under the oil pan to make clearance for the bellhousing and to align the input shaft with the clutch. The problem is I have no-one to help me. I thought about using my engine hoist to raise the back of the engine. Problem is that once I get that sucker (trans) up there, I can't get back out to fiddle around with the hoist.
Also, I know it is better to mount the bellhousing to the block, but I figured it would be easier for one person to do it with the bellhousing installed on the tranny.
What have you guys done.
1. By yourself.
2. Bellhousing on tranny.
3. Front trans mount removed from crossmember.
I have tried and it appears I will have to have a floor jack under the oil pan to make clearance for the bellhousing and to align the input shaft with the clutch. The problem is I have no-one to help me. I thought about using my engine hoist to raise the back of the engine. Problem is that once I get that sucker (trans) up there, I can't get back out to fiddle around with the hoist.
Also, I know it is better to mount the bellhousing to the block, but I figured it would be easier for one person to do it with the bellhousing installed on the tranny.
What have you guys done.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Install a muncie this way:
1. By yourself.
2. Bellhousing on tranny.
3. Front trans mount removed from crossmember.
I have tried and it appears I will have to have a floor jack under the oil pan to make clearance for the bellhousing and to align the input shaft with the clutch. The problem is I have no-one to help me. I thought about using my engine hoist to raise the back of the engine. Problem is that once I get that sucker (trans) up there, I can't get back out to fiddle around with the hoist.
Also, I know it is better to mount the bellhousing to the block, but I figured it would be easier for one person to do it with the bellhousing installed on the tranny.
What have you guys done.
1. By yourself.
2. Bellhousing on tranny.
3. Front trans mount removed from crossmember.
I have tried and it appears I will have to have a floor jack under the oil pan to make clearance for the bellhousing and to align the input shaft with the clutch. The problem is I have no-one to help me. I thought about using my engine hoist to raise the back of the engine. Problem is that once I get that sucker (trans) up there, I can't get back out to fiddle around with the hoist.
Also, I know it is better to mount the bellhousing to the block, but I figured it would be easier for one person to do it with the bellhousing installed on the tranny.
What have you guys done.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Valley AL
I agree. Use a line-up tool to install the clutch, then bolt up the bellhousing. The tranny is a lot easier to manage without the bellhousing. And yes, it can be done by yourself.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,317
Likes: 292
From: Ocala FL
Without question, this is the easiest. And you don't need the alignment tool. I've never found the plastic ones accurate enough anyway with a new bushing/bearing.
1. Install clutch. Align it close, with a finger, screwdriver, or the plastic alignment tool. Basically you can eyeball the clutch disc close enough.
2. Install bellhousing. Insert a couple of 4 - 6 inch long bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins.
3. Install clutch fork and throw out bearing.
4. Install clutch linkage.
5. Slide tail of tranny over the crossmember, push the input shaft up and in the bellhousing hole. You may have to move the engine down with a jack in some cars. Jack the engine back up once the input shaft is in the big hole and throw out bearing.
6. Slide the tranny over the guide pins to the bellhousing. It should go all but the last inch with a little rocking.
7. Step on the clutch pedal. Friend or 2x4 to hold it.
8. Slide the tranny in the last inch. Install top two bolts. Remove pins and install bottom two bolts.
1. Install clutch. Align it close, with a finger, screwdriver, or the plastic alignment tool. Basically you can eyeball the clutch disc close enough.
2. Install bellhousing. Insert a couple of 4 - 6 inch long bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins.
3. Install clutch fork and throw out bearing.
4. Install clutch linkage.
5. Slide tail of tranny over the crossmember, push the input shaft up and in the bellhousing hole. You may have to move the engine down with a jack in some cars. Jack the engine back up once the input shaft is in the big hole and throw out bearing.
6. Slide the tranny over the guide pins to the bellhousing. It should go all but the last inch with a little rocking.
7. Step on the clutch pedal. Friend or 2x4 to hold it.
8. Slide the tranny in the last inch. Install top two bolts. Remove pins and install bottom two bolts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 119
From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Without question, this is the easiest. And you don't need the alignment tool. I've never found the plastic ones accurate enough anyway with a new bushing/bearing.
1. Install clutch. Align it close, with a finger, screwdriver, or the plastic alignment tool. Basically you can eyeball the clutch disc close enough.
2. Install bellhousing. Insert a couple of 4 - 6 inch long bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins.
3. Install clutch fork and throw out bearing.
4. Install clutch linkage.
5. Slide tail of tranny over the crossmember, push the input shaft up and in the bellhousing hole. You may have to move the engine down with a jack in some cars. Jack the engine back up once the input shaft is in the big hole and throw out bearing.
6. Slide the tranny over the guide pins to the bellhousing. It should go all but the last inch with a little rocking.
7. Step on the clutch pedal. Friend or 2x4 to hold it.
8. Slide the tranny in the last inch. Install top two bolts. Remove pins and install bottom two bolts.
1. Install clutch. Align it close, with a finger, screwdriver, or the plastic alignment tool. Basically you can eyeball the clutch disc close enough.
2. Install bellhousing. Insert a couple of 4 - 6 inch long bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins.
3. Install clutch fork and throw out bearing.
4. Install clutch linkage.
5. Slide tail of tranny over the crossmember, push the input shaft up and in the bellhousing hole. You may have to move the engine down with a jack in some cars. Jack the engine back up once the input shaft is in the big hole and throw out bearing.
6. Slide the tranny over the guide pins to the bellhousing. It should go all but the last inch with a little rocking.
7. Step on the clutch pedal. Friend or 2x4 to hold it.
8. Slide the tranny in the last inch. Install top two bolts. Remove pins and install bottom two bolts.
Spoken like a man who has done a few of these! I couldn't have said it better
Bullshark
Now, if its a Tremec TKO, Cut the $%^&* crossmember and be done with it.
Last edited by Bullshark; Mar 7, 2007 at 02:16 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,317
Likes: 292
From: Ocala FL
I thought with the Tremec the first instruction was:
1. Remove body ...
Obviously, Zora NEVER worked on these cars.
You want to read about a great transmission change? This is insanity.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/D.../tw960707.html
Last edited by Procrastination Racing; Mar 7, 2007 at 02:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Without question, this is the easiest. And you don't need the alignment tool. I've never found the plastic ones accurate enough anyway with a new bushing/bearing.
1. Install clutch. Align it close, with a finger, screwdriver, or the plastic alignment tool. Basically you can eyeball the clutch disc close enough.
2. Install bellhousing. Insert a couple of 4 - 6 inch long bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins.
3. Install clutch fork and throw out bearing.
4. Install clutch linkage.
5. Slide tail of tranny over the crossmember, push the input shaft up and in the bellhousing hole. You may have to move the engine down with a jack in some cars. Jack the engine back up once the input shaft is in the big hole and throw out bearing.
6. Slide the tranny over the guide pins to the bellhousing. It should go all but the last inch with a little rocking.
7. Step on the clutch pedal. Friend or 2x4 to hold it.
8. Slide the tranny in the last inch. Install top two bolts. Remove pins and install bottom two bolts.
1. Install clutch. Align it close, with a finger, screwdriver, or the plastic alignment tool. Basically you can eyeball the clutch disc close enough.
2. Install bellhousing. Insert a couple of 4 - 6 inch long bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins.
3. Install clutch fork and throw out bearing.
4. Install clutch linkage.
5. Slide tail of tranny over the crossmember, push the input shaft up and in the bellhousing hole. You may have to move the engine down with a jack in some cars. Jack the engine back up once the input shaft is in the big hole and throw out bearing.
6. Slide the tranny over the guide pins to the bellhousing. It should go all but the last inch with a little rocking.
7. Step on the clutch pedal. Friend or 2x4 to hold it.
8. Slide the tranny in the last inch. Install top two bolts. Remove pins and install bottom two bolts.
You have any pics?
Thanks again,
Scott
Last edited by sperkins; Mar 7, 2007 at 09:15 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
The Fork mounts inside the port on the side of the bellhousing and would be in the way bolting up the bellhousing. Use the tranny mount holes in the bellhousing for the guide pin bolts
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,317
Likes: 292
From: Ocala FL
You really don't want the throw out falling off the fork into the bottom of the bellhousing. Some they don't go far, others can be a real pain unless your arm bends in 4 places.
The only real order is get the bellhousing on before you try the transmission and hook the clutch linkage before sliding the transmission in all the way. It helps stablize the fork so the TO doesn't fall.
You can operate the clutch fork with a long Cresent wrench or a pry bar while under there to slide the transmission in. It takes some grunting and a few colorful words, but it works if no one else is around.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Are you saying that without engaging the clutch that the trans will not mate to the block?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
It will go in if everything is lined up just right. If the clutch disc is slightly off the trans will not go the last 1/2 inch and you are jamming the trans shaft into the pilot bearing, not a good thing. By disengaging the clutch you are allowing the disc to move slightly and realing itself. I have done ths myself when it does not line up perfect and it works fine. If you feel everything is lined up just right it should go all the way in without the clutch movement.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
*** Update ***
I was able to get the trans in last night, BUT I can't get it in that last 1/2 inch. I do not have any way to engage the clutch fork as I do not have ANY of the linkage (auto to stick conversion) for the pedal installed (missing a lot of the parts too). Is there any other trick I can try?
I was able to get the trans in last night, BUT I can't get it in that last 1/2 inch. I do not have any way to engage the clutch fork as I do not have ANY of the linkage (auto to stick conversion) for the pedal installed (missing a lot of the parts too). Is there any other trick I can try?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
*** Update ***
I was able to get the trans in last night, BUT I can't get it in that last 1/2 inch. I do not have any way to engage the clutch fork as I do not have ANY of the linkage (auto to stick conversion) for the pedal installed (missing a lot of the parts too). Is there any other trick I can try?
I was able to get the trans in last night, BUT I can't get it in that last 1/2 inch. I do not have any way to engage the clutch fork as I do not have ANY of the linkage (auto to stick conversion) for the pedal installed (missing a lot of the parts too). Is there any other trick I can try?
If the clutch disc is not properly aligned there is no way the trans is going to go in. You have to find some way to release the pressure plate to allow the clutch disc to move. Either hook up linkage, you have none at the moment or remove the pressure plate again and realign the clutch disc.