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2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Easy Mike
I have not heard of a pad being missed twice. VIN derivative could have been missed at St. Louis, but not likely. The quality control guys looked for things like that. Ditto for a missing engine code stamp prior to leaving Flint. Not likely. Still, stranger things have happened.
It's possible the block was replaced in Heavy Repair at St. Louis before the car was shipped, but in those instances the VIN restamp is almost always noticeable.
If a warranty repair, it would have had a CE number put on at the dealership, I think. Over-the-counter block purchase is likely. Is there some "approved" method for re-identifying that block with your car? [I'm not suggesting the original numbering method.]
If a warranty repair, it would have had a CE number put on at the dealership, I think. Over-the-counter block purchase is likely. Is there some "approved" method for re-identifying that block with your car? [I'm not suggesting the original numbering method.]
Due to the 1976 date code I dont think that would be possible. I purchased my car knowing it had this engine so its not that big of a deal. Now I know what I have, a 1976 350 block, and can work from there.
My engine has an intake from a 1968 corvette. I'll pull the valve covers to see what kind of heads I'm dealing with. For now the engine stays as is. I have other 'issues'.
If this block had been rebuilt and decked is this what the block would look like ? For a guy that is rebuiding his motor and decking it how do you preserve the matching numbers during the decking proceedure ?
If this block had been rebuilt and decked is this what the block would look like ? For a guy that is rebuiding his motor and decking it how do you preserve the matching numbers during the decking proceedure ?
Tell your machinist not to deck them off. They dont run the 'decker' all the way to the edge. There are picture on the forum of a block that has been decked yet the numbers are still there.
Tell him FIRST, before any machining is done, and make sure he knows the value of the numbers and why you want to keep them. Have a very clear understanding between the two of you before you hand your block over to him.
But, first things first, does your block actually need to be decked? Most don't.
I had my original '71 LT-1 block decked and they left the pad alone to keep it #'s matching. Decking may not be necessary but a zero deck block does increase CR
If this block had been rebuilt and decked is this what the block would look like ? For a guy that is rebuiding his motor and decking it how do you preserve the matching numbers during the decking proceedure ?
Explain the importance of the numbers to you. Any good shop should have a car guy running it and he will understand. If not, go elsewhere.
Also, if they can't grasp the concept that the numbers are VERY important to you, see if he can grasp the concept that it will cost him about $10,000 to $50,000 depending on the car it belongs in.
Many over the counter crate engines in the 70's were sold with a blank pad. Looks like original broachmarks and a never stamped pad to me so guessing it is an over the counter engine.
the block has been machined at the head to block mating surface (where the head gasket goes) and this can be done for several reasons. It is possible for a block to warp, decking a warped block will make it flat and true again. Decking can also be done to raise the compression (NOT RECOMMENDED). To deck a block and remove the sn from the block might require as much as .040 to be removed, which is considerable on that surface. This is most often a grinding process, rather large flat grinding wheel comes into contact with the deck surface and material is removed until the desired results are achieved. Most often, if one side needs to be decked??? both sides get it....
Looks like original broach marks on the pad to me. Check your casting date in the same spot as your casting # but on the pass side. I have heard of the pad not being stamped (missed) from the factory.