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bleed my brakes ,every thing looks ok, no leaks no air, or it seems .pedal goes to floor car will stop but not an a very large dime what next booster or master cylinder? how do you check booster?
I just had the same problem with my camry.. I know you said you checked everything, and no leaks (that you can see).. But the pedal would go all the way to the floor and then finally get some braking power.. I had a leak in a brake line.. Are you losing any brake fluid, or is it staying at the same level?
I doubt if your booster is bad. Your pedal would be hard as a rock if you were not getting boost. You must still have air in your brakes or your master cylinder is by-passing.
bleed my brakes ,every thing looks ok, no leaks no air, or it seems .pedal goes to floor car will stop but not an a very large dime what next booster or master cylinder? how do you check booster?
Walk us through your bleeding sequence and what your problems were before the bleed and what you did to fix them.
when i bought car was able to drive it home wasen't far had brakes no pedal would go close to floor and would stop the car bleed brakes farest cal first then so on had some air but not much but pedal still the same guy i bought from said cal's ,rotors and pads and master cyl had been replaced and it appears it has had the same prob on a harley a while back was a clogged vent in the master cyl is a car the same basic if so doseny appear to be any thing clogged in m/c car has set since 2001 could m/c be bad? its not leacking fluid
If your sure there are no loeaks and bled it properly check the adjustment of the rod connected to the brake pedal. For whatever MC you have installed you may have to adjust it so the length is longer pushing into the MC further.
Just something to check along with everything else.
No mention of what kind of car you are working on..but I assume that it has disc-brakes at least up front. With the wheels off and applying the pedal, do the calipers close evenly or do they look like they are rocking or tilting? If the caliper sliders are rusted (and stuck), you'll have the symptoms you mentioned. Won't bleed, will pump up a little, but will eventually go back to the floor.
This goes for brake cylinders also...but I suspect the front calipers are stuck. New pads and rotors won't make a difference. Rebuilt calipers aren't really that expensive anymore (for most GM stuff anyway)
From: GA "When I grow up, I'm gonna get a Trans Am and run from the cops". Direct quote from my 4yo son.
Check out my post in tech under Motive power bleeder. Buy one now!! I was killing myself with the brakes. $60 at Summit racing. Best money you will spend, trust me!
I have a feeing you have a lot of air in the system. Keep in mind that with excess air it may take four or even five good bleeds to get all the air out.
Buying a bleeding system like a vac gin or a Motive is a good idea, but you can get the same result from a good old fashioned bleed.
I'd bet the guy that replaced the master did not bench bleed and there was a TON of air trapped in the system after that. You bled, but maybe only got a fraction of what's in the system.
Bench bleeding while the master is in the car is a good idea too.
Another thought here....if your M/C was "by-passing" it's seals, after sometime the brake fluid would warm up,and seals would expand and your pedal would pump up.....on the other hand,if your pedal stays soft...(low to floor) even after driving, then I would agree your "bleed" is not complete,and air is still in your system....