Not without a water-pump belt ....Unless, of course you got an electric water pump
Stripped Crank
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
Stripped Crank
the post says it all. i think what happened is the woodruff key got stuck or something and i just kept trying to tighten the bolt. now all that crap aside, for a TEMPORARY use could i retap whatever is left of the threads and put some epoxy or something strong down the snout and try to retap the hole? i know JB Weld wont work if i try to tighten the bolt down to put the Balancer back on, so im wondering can i lightly tap it on? will it go straight on if i put even amounts of pressureon the balancer? i need real quick answers if anyone has some because i have to move today out of this house im in and i cant get it to start and Definately cant drive it if i do get it running because of the crank lol
the weird thing is it turns over, has compression and spark but wont start up and i tried using Starting Fluid and it still wont even get anywhere. im thinking im 180 degrees out on the Distributor...any guesses on that?
Thanks for any help in advance
the weird thing is it turns over, has compression and spark but wont start up and i tried using Starting Fluid and it still wont even get anywhere. im thinking im 180 degrees out on the Distributor...any guesses on that?
Thanks for any help in advance
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
retapping the threads will yield a permanent repair....do some home work you may find a metric size that is a good replacement
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
Loctite makes a thread repair compound that would be a permanent solution. You put it on the strip threads, put a release agent on the bolt and screw it in. The loctite will bond to the crank repairing the missing threads. After it hardens, remove and clean the bolt, and put the damper on.
I've used it on a transmission before and it held for years.
I've used it on a transmission before and it held for years.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 1
From: grand prairie texas
Have you checked to see if all the threads are stripped out? I would get a tap and chase the threads and then You may be able to get a longer bolt and pick up some good threads deeper in the hole and it might hold. I would not reccomend using a hammer on the harmonic balancer. It should go onto the crank with moderate resistance but if you had to wrench it down hard enough to mess up the threads something is wrong that needs investigated. Why did you have it apart? You said it cranks but wont run. Does it backfire thru the carb while you are cranking? Its easy enough to find out if you are 180 out. Tell us more of what the engine is doing while cranking.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I have tapped the balancer on. If it doesn't go on with hand pressure use a 2x4 block, line up the key and get it started straight, put the block flat on the center of the balancer and gently tap it in. It should go with minimal force. You probably only stripped a little of the outer threads. Once you get it on you can probably run a thread chaser into the hole, clean up the threads. blow it out and instal the bolt. Check the key and keyways for burrs before installing since you may have dinged them up.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
i think i mis-typed when i said i would 'retap the hole'. i think what i meant was i wanted to try and save what threads are left if they all havent been stripped which i dont think happened byt he looks of it. most of the inner threads are gone so i was going to try to put a good size gob of JB Weld in there and try to tap some threads out of that stuff or anything really strong for the time being until i can remove the motor, get a new crank and have it rebalanced and blueprinted again i guess. i wish this wasnt the case...
Question: can i retap the hole with 1/2" N.F ? im pretty sure i will have to drill out more metal to get a tap to cut threads that big but i wanted some advice before i atempt this in 8 hours.
Question: can i retap the hole with 1/2" N.F ? im pretty sure i will have to drill out more metal to get a tap to cut threads that big but i wanted some advice before i atempt this in 8 hours.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
There should be enough "meat" for a helicoil insert - of course, you won't be able to drill the hole with the engine/crank installed... maybe it works if you remove the radiator ...
The balancer installation tool is free at AutoZone or AdvancedAuto (loaner tools) - it's a great tool that will not mess the threads up. It's a threaded adapter and a long threaded rod, almost 3/4" diameter.... you use a nut to push the balancer on the crank. Again: great tool and free... can't ask for more....
You should be able to drive a few miles without the balancer, even if the engine is externally balanced.... it won't destroy the engine if you only drive a few miles and keep the rpm as low as possible
Edit: (only with electric water pump)
The balancer installation tool is free at AutoZone or AdvancedAuto (loaner tools) - it's a great tool that will not mess the threads up. It's a threaded adapter and a long threaded rod, almost 3/4" diameter.... you use a nut to push the balancer on the crank. Again: great tool and free... can't ask for more....
You should be able to drive a few miles without the balancer, even if the engine is externally balanced.... it won't destroy the engine if you only drive a few miles and keep the rpm as low as possible
Edit: (only with electric water pump)
Last edited by MYBAD79; Mar 31, 2007 at 11:51 AM. Reason: brainfart
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
Have you checked to see if all the threads are stripped out? I would get a tap and chase the threads and then You may be able to get a longer bolt and pick up some good threads deeper in the hole and it might hold. I would not reccomend using a hammer on the harmonic balancer. It should go onto the crank with moderate resistance but if you had to wrench it down hard enough to mess up the threads something is wrong that needs investigated. Why did you have it apart? You said it cranks but wont run. Does it backfire thru the carb while you are cranking? Its easy enough to find out if you are 180 out. Tell us more of what the engine is doing while cranking.
either im slow or....im slowi Was rebuilding the motor, i had it bored .030" over and had them balance and blueprint it. i kept the stock crank because it was nearly perfect when i pulled it out and had them put in some forged flat top pistons *4 relief valves on each to me doesn't look very flat
* stock heads 
Stealth manifold, Edelbrock 750 with electric choke. - all that aside i put the #1 cylinder at TDC * i had both valves closed with the piston at the top of the cylinder* and i stabbed the Distributor at #1. the only way it would try to start is when i sprayed nearly 4 full seconds worth of starting fluid down the carb. Am i doing something wrong?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 40
Likes: 1
From: Durban KZN
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 1
From: grand prairie texas
Once you bought that new grade 8 bolt maybe 1/4th inch longer to go deeper into the crank but buy the tap and oil it up good and chase those old threads and you may be surprized that you should have enough good threads to hold the balancer. About the not starting confirm you are getting spark. Are you getting any popping back out of the carb? I know this is going to sound dumb but confirm you dont have the rocker arms too tight.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
i took your advice Mwmech and put a longer bolt in there after putting some of that thread repair agent in. HOLY COW - do NOT let that stuff sit in for longer then what the directions say, even by 2 minutes...i left the bolt in for 2 minutes longer and then i could NOT get it out! i had to put the Damper on half way and jam a 1/2" Square stock in between it and the block...worked great but JeEEeEeZZ what
. i had to use a Tap and Die to make sure all threads were clean. works great now. It just wont fire up now
. i had to use a Tap and Die to make sure all threads were clean. works great now. It just wont fire up now
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 1
From: grand prairie texas
Hey Evil I am glad to hear the crank is alright. Now tell us about the starting problem. We assume you are getting spark and fuel but while cranking is it popping from the carburator? Did you check your valve clearance yet to be sure they are not too tight?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
They were initially designed that way (327).
But they used a special jig to clamp both parts of the balancer together to tap them on. This avoided damaging the damper. If you do not have that tool, then you can ruin the damper if you tap it on.
I have pics of it (the tool) in my old repair manuals.
I do not have the tool, so I set the block inside my press fame and press those old dampers on.
It's a "no-no" to bang on a damper.
Compromises the bond between the inner hub, rubber seal, and outer inertia ring.
They explode and go through the hood and anything else in the way when they let loose. Plenty of people here on the forum have experienced this and have posted pics.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
holy crap, thats nutz! thats a large chunk of metal to have flying around in your engine compartment.
ok well im going to go check my timing once more before i find out i made a simple mistake. but it cranks, there is no binding of any kinda, it fires. and when i put the distributor 180* out, it pushes fuel straight up in the air from the carb, but it doesnt shoot flames when its "correctly" timed, it cranks great but doesnt fire on a single cylinder and i have tried Starter Fluid and its getting plenty of gas from the carb. im going to re-check everything one last time then come back and check the forums again. thanks for your guys/gals help.
ok well im going to go check my timing once more before i find out i made a simple mistake. but it cranks, there is no binding of any kinda, it fires. and when i put the distributor 180* out, it pushes fuel straight up in the air from the carb, but it doesnt shoot flames
when its "correctly" timed, it cranks great but doesnt fire on a single cylinder and i have tried Starter Fluid and its getting plenty of gas from the carb. im going to re-check everything one last time then come back and check the forums again. thanks for your guys/gals help.