frame rail channels
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 182
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From: DEER ISLE ME
frame rail channels
I've looked through the posts and haven't seen anything on removing these...mine are rusted through...
and under the foam pads there was some rust too..
Hafta weld these up or i'll have two frames...and I thought the frame and mounts were great
anyone have a how to on this??
and under the foam pads there was some rust too..
Hafta weld these up or i'll have two frames...and I thought the frame and mounts were great
anyone have a how to on this??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
I used the Rocker Channel Repair Sections from Caladonia, I cleaned up the existing channels and welded the new pieces in under them, worked out great and no worries about losing existing geometry
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
Here's a post of mine on the topic: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ocker+channels
Also, try an advanced search on rocker channels and click on "search archives"
Yours don't look that bad, but you should take a small pick to them and really determine how bad they are - might be able to just patch them vs. total replacement.
Good luck - I never want to do it again
Also, try an advanced search on rocker channels and click on "search archives"
Yours don't look that bad, but you should take a small pick to them and really determine how bad they are - might be able to just patch them vs. total replacement.
Good luck - I never want to do it again
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: DEER ISLE ME
actually those pictures don't do justice(I should proof read first) they LOOk fine there...check out under the mounts
they are GONE in the front...the left side is the worst,with a few holes throughout...
they are GONE in the front...the left side is the worst,with a few holes throughout...
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
yeah, the bad areas probably line up with the rusty spots on your frame. Mine were the same way. You may still get away with buying replacement channels, but making smaller patch panels out of them. The toughest part of this replacement is getting the old ones out, especially around the areas where the body mount bolts reside.
Do you have a welders pick? If you do, get under it (use a good face shield) and start picking at the rusty areas and see how solid they are. Mine didn't look that bad when I started picking, but in the end they were worse off than I thought.
I'm glad I did it. I just don't want to go through this again.
Do you have a welders pick? If you do, get under it (use a good face shield) and start picking at the rusty areas and see how solid they are. Mine didn't look that bad when I started picking, but in the end they were worse off than I thought.
I'm glad I did it. I just don't want to go through this again.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Those aren't too bad.
Mine were much worse and decided a new rear clip was a better choice than repair.
Well, the new clip needed some attention as well.
For the holes in the frame under the #1/#2 body seals,
you can patch right over that with some 1/8" steel.
Just make sure you grind the rust away in the areas you weld to.
The rocker channels will need more investigation before moving forward.
Search for user "Redwingvette" ... his web site has some detail on the rocker channel replacement.
Here are the channels from my 75:
Mine were much worse and decided a new rear clip was a better choice than repair.
Well, the new clip needed some attention as well.
For the holes in the frame under the #1/#2 body seals,
you can patch right over that with some 1/8" steel.
Just make sure you grind the rust away in the areas you weld to.
The rocker channels will need more investigation before moving forward.
Search for user "Redwingvette" ... his web site has some detail on the rocker channel replacement.
Here are the channels from my 75:
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 182
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From: DEER ISLE ME
I just got back from your "link" C69...you have some nice footage there.
and yes they do line up. the foam acted as sandpaper...
yours look worse than mine it seems,though I haven't picked at them.
How bad is it to just replace them? So they are in three piece?
I have the car apart so I might as well replace them with new parts, so I may want the old ones to use as reference. I havent found any info on what holds them in place. I'd like to know where to work and what I must not ruin along the way...seems that I can't fix one thing without breaking\finding something else.
I can see rivets(?),what else is there? any "glue"? or hidden bolts?
and yes they do line up. the foam acted as sandpaper...
yours look worse than mine it seems,though I haven't picked at them.
How bad is it to just replace them? So they are in three piece?
I have the car apart so I might as well replace them with new parts, so I may want the old ones to use as reference. I havent found any info on what holds them in place. I'd like to know where to work and what I must not ruin along the way...seems that I can't fix one thing without breaking\finding something else.
I can see rivets(?),what else is there? any "glue"? or hidden bolts?
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
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From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
I just got back from your "link" C69...you have some nice footage there.
and yes they do line up. the foam acted as sandpaper...
yours look worse than mine it seems,though I haven't picked at them.
How bad is it to just replace them? So they are in three piece?
I have the car apart so I might as well replace them with new parts, so I may want the old ones to use as reference. I havent found any info on what holds them in place. I'd like to know where to work and what I must not ruin along the way...seems that I can't fix one thing without breaking\finding something else.
I can see rivets(?),what else is there? any "glue"? or hidden bolts?
and yes they do line up. the foam acted as sandpaper...
yours look worse than mine it seems,though I haven't picked at them.
How bad is it to just replace them? So they are in three piece?
I have the car apart so I might as well replace them with new parts, so I may want the old ones to use as reference. I havent found any info on what holds them in place. I'd like to know where to work and what I must not ruin along the way...seems that I can't fix one thing without breaking\finding something else.
I can see rivets(?),what else is there? any "glue"? or hidden bolts?
I found redwingvettes website, it came in handy. You can see the 3 pieces and how they weld together. The channels are welded together and welded in place into the existing birdcage structure. There will be many trial and error fittings where you put them in place, take them back out, chisel a little more, etc... This, too, is a time where women and small children should not be present for reasons stated above. Here is the site: http://hometown.aol.com/bmclau5079/page5.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 182
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From: DEER ISLE ME
I reposisioned the hangers and most all the damage is in the front of the rails. the driver picture came out good but the passenser side is blurry
they are both rusted through on both sides of the #2 mount...I think they should come off and be fixed...
they are both rusted through on both sides of the #2 mount...I think they should come off and be fixed...
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
Likes: 0
From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
agreed - they look worse in these latest pics. The drivers side looks a lot like mine did.
Do you have access to a MIG welder? This will be required for this job. Also handy will be: air chisel, 4" angle grinder, die grinder, dremel with lots of cut-off wheels (this is how I cross-cut through them w/o damaging the fiberglass).
oh, and many hours of "free-time"
I bought my rocker channel replacement panels from Zip.
Do you have access to a MIG welder? This will be required for this job. Also handy will be: air chisel, 4" angle grinder, die grinder, dremel with lots of cut-off wheels (this is how I cross-cut through them w/o damaging the fiberglass).
oh, and many hours of "free-time"
I bought my rocker channel replacement panels from Zip.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 182
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From: DEER ISLE ME
will the mig be required for removal??
cross cut through them...you took them out in pieces?
i cut the rivets along the rocker panels and knocked them out but the front and rear mounts look like a bear...and i'm not sure if i'm seeing the right place in the front mount...i see some round suspect spots, alot like the rivets, are they the ones I want attack??I think three over the mount brace...I'd love to see a diagram of how they hook up...
and how does one get at whatever holds the rear of it...?
cross cut through them...you took them out in pieces?
i cut the rivets along the rocker panels and knocked them out but the front and rear mounts look like a bear...and i'm not sure if i'm seeing the right place in the front mount...i see some round suspect spots, alot like the rivets, are they the ones I want attack??I think three over the mount brace...I'd love to see a diagram of how they hook up...
and how does one get at whatever holds the rear of it...?
Last edited by Timmijoe; Apr 17, 2007 at 06:11 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Rivets along the length to hold firmly to the fiberglass that wraps over them.
However, in the front and rear, they are spot-welded to the hinge pillar
and door striker pillar.
The front looks rotted enough to persuade the channel off with
a little chisel and grinder work.
If the spot welds need to ba attacked, then the AIM is quite useful.
The AIM shows the exact number and location of factory spot welds.
If you don't have an AIM yet ... buy one ... you need it (fairly cheap).
Mine are both at home. Send me an email and I will try to find the page
you need to proceed. dave (at) NHvette [dot] com
MIG is to install new ones.
Your frame rail rotted on top ... not from abrasion, but from the foam rubber
seal keeping water trapped against the frame, very common ... I've been there and fixed that, too.
Mine wasn't as bad as yours, so I covered the area in 1/16" steel (could have been bigger patch).
Before and after:
However, in the front and rear, they are spot-welded to the hinge pillar
and door striker pillar.
The front looks rotted enough to persuade the channel off with
a little chisel and grinder work.
If the spot welds need to ba attacked, then the AIM is quite useful.
The AIM shows the exact number and location of factory spot welds.
If you don't have an AIM yet ... buy one ... you need it (fairly cheap).
Mine are both at home. Send me an email and I will try to find the page
you need to proceed. dave (at) NHvette [dot] com
MIG is to install new ones.
Your frame rail rotted on top ... not from abrasion, but from the foam rubber
seal keeping water trapped against the frame, very common ... I've been there and fixed that, too.
Mine wasn't as bad as yours, so I covered the area in 1/16" steel (could have been bigger patch).
Before and after:
Last edited by NHvette; Apr 17, 2007 at 06:20 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,654
Likes: 0
From: Chandler Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
will the mig be required for removal??
cross cut through them...you took them out in pieces?
i cut the rivets along the rocker panels and knocked them out but the front and rear mounts look like a bear...and i'm not sure if i'm seeing the right place in the front mount...i see some round suspect spots, alot like the rivets, are they the ones I want attack??I think three over the mount brace...I'd love to see a diagram of how they hook up...
cross cut through them...you took them out in pieces?
i cut the rivets along the rocker panels and knocked them out but the front and rear mounts look like a bear...and i'm not sure if i'm seeing the right place in the front mount...i see some round suspect spots, alot like the rivets, are they the ones I want attack??I think three over the mount brace...I'd love to see a diagram of how they hook up...
Last edited by chevy69; Apr 17, 2007 at 06:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 182
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From: DEER ISLE ME
NHV...I do not have the AIM, the first time i've heard of it was here on the forum...shelterd life I lead I guess, I never dreamed I'd dig this far in, so i'll be investing in one. I mean all I was doing was sanding for a paint job and never saw this coming, But please send me anything you can about removing them. check your PM ok, thanks...
C69,
I did go to the site you posted me,and can see what it is that i'm facing...they sure look good when there new!
I did look in the rear inspection hole and I can see the overlap line of two metals...some ole hard to get in there and clean so to see what your doing thats for sure...am I supposed to hammer away in there??
just pry them apart???
I'll check out the birdcage tread again.I'd like to see what i'm supposed to be doing.
thanks for the replies and keep them coming
C69,
I did go to the site you posted me,and can see what it is that i'm facing...they sure look good when there new!
I did look in the rear inspection hole and I can see the overlap line of two metals...some ole hard to get in there and clean so to see what your doing thats for sure...am I supposed to hammer away in there??
just pry them apart???I'll check out the birdcage tread again.I'd like to see what i'm supposed to be doing.
thanks for the replies and keep them coming
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 971
Likes: 7
From: roanoke va
[QUOTE=Timmijoe;1559863686]NHV...I do not have the AIM, the first time i've heard of it was here on the forum...shelterd life I lead I guess, I never dreamed I'd dig this far in, so i'll be investing in one. I mean all I was doing was sanding for a paint job and never saw this coming, But please send me anything you can about removing them. check your PM ok, thanks..
They do not call them money pits for nothing
. I only drove my 72 about a half a mile before I took it apart after finding a compression fitting in the brake line is how my frame off started and I have not looked back.
Just keep work on it a little at a time and don't let it get you down. I started on mine 3yrs. ago and I have took severial 2 mths.+ breaks along the way. I have been doing mine as a hobby and it gets old working on it so I end up taking a break for a little while (but not too long). Someone told me here about 2 yrs. ago that most projects and parts cars come to life while doing a frame off. Just take your time and do it right and ENJOY it look at it as a hobby and not a job.
They do not call them money pits for nothing
. I only drove my 72 about a half a mile before I took it apart after finding a compression fitting in the brake line is how my frame off started and I have not looked back.Just keep work on it a little at a time and don't let it get you down. I started on mine 3yrs. ago and I have took severial 2 mths.+ breaks along the way. I have been doing mine as a hobby and it gets old working on it so I end up taking a break for a little while (but not too long). Someone told me here about 2 yrs. ago that most projects and parts cars come to life while doing a frame off. Just take your time and do it right and ENJOY it look at it as a hobby and not a job.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 182
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From: DEER ISLE ME
THAT was your frame?? ...
what did your rocker channels look like...or was there any??
got her looking good though, those new lines really snap out at ya,like pinstriping.
i'll take my time but still be busy, alot of things to spend time on...
... what did your rocker channels look like...or was there any??got her looking good though, those new lines really snap out at ya,like pinstriping.
i'll take my time but still be busy, alot of things to spend time on...