Good times under the dash
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
Good times under the dash
I have lots to do under there. New headlight switch (bad vacuum side), new wiper solenoid (bad electric side), new speedometer, replace radio and speakers, new a/c vent swivels, new dash light bulbs, new clock (actually I'm using the old one, it now works with new oil job). Also replacing and repairing heat/ac ducts. And while I have the steering column dropped I'm putting in a new rag joint. Any suggestions as to what else while I'm under there?
I have started the engine while in this state of disassembly to check vacuum and fan operation and have found that the stock fan moves a lot of air without ducts. When I replace the main distribution duct (not in photo) the air flow seems to be less than half of it's unrestricted flow. I am going to rethink the duct system and maybe customize a bit to shorten or open up the duct run somehow.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 809
Likes: 1
From: Mass
My car looks alot like that right now, but I have about 5 or 6 connectors that weren't connected to anything and am very confused. If you have things labeled is there any way you could send them my way? Happen to know what a blue wire in the wire bundle that goes behind the speedo/tach? I have two or three blue wires that are not connected to anything. I love wiring 
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
It looks a lot worse than it really is. The hardest part really is getting at those damn fuses I had to replace. And that was after removing all the dash pieces. It's still really in a bad spot. I'd really like to meet the jackass that decided to put it up there. I'm way too old and unflexible for that. I'm doing this in four days with one day waiting for parts so it's not very confusing - I think it would be a lot harder if someone were to do this over a long period of time.
The only blue wires under there are for the windshield wipers and it elec/vac. solenoid and they are connected by multi-wire plugs. There is one that goes to an indicator light for either door ajar or e-brake.
I'm not doing the heater core because I live in South Florida and a cold day in the winter is about 75. If it ever leaks I'll bypass it. I may anyway.
The steering wheel - it's gorgeous (looks better in person). But more important, it gets away from that skinny stock wheel that is uncomfortable at best (definitely not a driving wheel).
The only blue wires under there are for the windshield wipers and it elec/vac. solenoid and they are connected by multi-wire plugs. There is one that goes to an indicator light for either door ajar or e-brake.
I'm not doing the heater core because I live in South Florida and a cold day in the winter is about 75. If it ever leaks I'll bypass it. I may anyway.
The steering wheel - it's gorgeous (looks better in person). But more important, it gets away from that skinny stock wheel that is uncomfortable at best (definitely not a driving wheel).
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Look over your wire harnesses for any poor splices, loose connections or dirty contacts. I use 00 Steel Wool to clean all my electric contacts. It works really well for bulb sockets and the printed circuit boards. I also cleaned up a lot of bubba hacks to some of the wiring harnesses and then zip tied them together to clean things up.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: DeLand Florida
I disconnected the heater hoses and plugged up the water pump and manifold. the temp of engine went down!!!!! to 160! now all water passes though the radiator. I don't a heater up here in deland.........rodney
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Your airflow problem may be a collection of debris in the firewall plenum area just inside the blower motor. It sounds like you have re-done the internal ducting just fine. Also check out all the A/C & heater vacuum door operations before you close off access to them [when you reassemble].
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
It wasn't near as much fun as I thought. I thought I had it well under control even after I had it all disassembled. Stuffing everything back under the dash is a challenge. The cheap plastic dash bulb sockets kept coming apart every time I moved something. The bulbs would then drop into either the speedometer of tach. I took each of them apart 3 times before I decided to add a 10 inch piece of wire to each socket. The only problem is it adds to the tangled mess under there.
But alls well that ends well - I have all back together except the right lower dash panel and kick. EVERYTHING WORKS.
In case anyone is interested I am using a radio out of a 71 (the car is a 72) and using 4 - 4 ohm speakers each side wired in series. Stock dash speakers are 10 ohm. They sound really good considering the 35 year old radio.
BTW the air flow through the ducts is much better now that all the ducts are there and properly hooked up.
But alls well that ends well - I have all back together except the right lower dash panel and kick. EVERYTHING WORKS.
In case anyone is interested I am using a radio out of a 71 (the car is a 72) and using 4 - 4 ohm speakers each side wired in series. Stock dash speakers are 10 ohm. They sound really good considering the 35 year old radio.
BTW the air flow through the ducts is much better now that all the ducts are there and properly hooked up.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
If I had to do it over the one change I would definitely make is I would remove the steering column instead of just dropping it down. The hardest part of the job is getting the left lower dash back in place and it would be so much easier if the column wasn't there. It's now completely done and definitely worth the effort.