torque wrench question.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area CA
torque wrench question.
I dont own a torque wrench. I am planning to get one.
What kind should I get, that will work for most of the work on a 78 corvette ?
There are a lot of options available with different length and different force ranges to choose from.
Thanks in advance.
What kind should I get, that will work for most of the work on a 78 corvette ?
There are a lot of options available with different length and different force ranges to choose from.
Thanks in advance.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,950
Likes: 498
From: Chino Hills CA
You get what you pay for. For most work including building engines you want one in the range of 0 to about 100 or 150 ft-lb. Most folks use the clicker type. You can get a crappy one that will do the job from Harbor freight for $20, or a decent one from Sears or Home Depot for under $100. I use a Norbar, which is pretty bulletproof, costs about $150. I used to have a Bonney which I had for over 20 years till I broke the ratchet. It's a precision instrument, keep it in its case, turn it down to the lowest setting after use, and don't store it in a cold place.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
I will never buy another Sears torque wrench...junk...
Some may laugh at the next one...Harbor Freight...chump change as cost is concerned but right on teh money with torque...been using it for two years and still accurate..
Another good one is Proto...this one I purchased during the late 60's and still accurate today
Some may laugh at the next one...Harbor Freight...chump change as cost is concerned but right on teh money with torque...been using it for two years and still accurate..
Another good one is Proto...this one I purchased during the late 60's and still accurate today
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I will never buy another Sears torque wrench...junk...
Some may laugh at the next one...Harbor Freight...chump change as cost is concerned but right on teh money with torque...been using it for two years and still accurate..
Another good one is Proto...this one I purchased during the late 60's and still accurate today
Some may laugh at the next one...Harbor Freight...chump change as cost is concerned but right on teh money with torque...been using it for two years and still accurate..
Another good one is Proto...this one I purchased during the late 60's and still accurate today
George, you're using a torque wrench that's older than me.
I too have a Harbor Freight torque wrench and it's more consistent than my Step Dad's digital one. That being said, he's the one that suggested I stick with an analog unit that I bought for $9.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area CA
Home depot has a brand called Husky. The torque range that they have is 20-200 ft/lbs. They dont have anything less than 20.
Sears (craftsman) has one that has the range of 0-150 or something like that. Price wise both Husky and craftsman are both the same.
Sears (craftsman) has one that has the range of 0-150 or something like that. Price wise both Husky and craftsman are both the same.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,165
Likes: 950
From: Keizer Oregon
Funny I have exactly the opposite experience.My cheap Harbor freight wrench was WAY off, I ended up cracking some aluminum pieces with that hunk of crap.
I broke down and bought a $100 Craftsman with the "digital" readout. range is 5-80lbs and it is right on. Has also lasted me through some major restoration projects.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
If you are an assembly line worker that torques the same bolts with the same torques day in and day out...you want a click-type torque wrench. If you have a C3 with different bolts that require different torques...you don't. A simple beam-type or dial face torque wrench is all you need; get something with a max reading of 100 or 150 ft-lbs, no more. You also will need to set small bolts at 15-20 ft-lbs with that same wrench, and that is pretty low on its scale.
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Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 624
Likes: 1
From: Melbourne, Fla. 6 months- New Middletown, Ohio 6 months
If you are an assembly line worker that torques the same bolts with the same torques day in and day out...you want a click-type torque wrench. If you have a C3 with different bolts that require different torques...you don't. A simple beam-type or dial face torque wrench is all you need; get something with a max reading of 100 or 150 ft-lbs, no more. You also will need to set small bolts at 15-20 ft-lbs with that same wrench, and that is pretty low on its scale.
As for the lower torques (15-20 lbs.) I would think you are better off to purchase a 3/8" drive for those applications. Neither of the 1/2" drive wrench types are very accurate when you are at either end of their ranges.
I can not say whether a Sears is better than a Harbour Freight but the first reply by lowbuck2 about how to take care of the tool is right on the money. If you leave tention on the wrench it will affect the accuracy.
Just another opinion.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
I will never buy another Sears torque wrench...junk...
Some may laugh at the next one...Harbor Freight...chump change as cost is concerned but right on teh money with torque...been using it for two years and still accurate..
Another good one is Proto...this one I purchased during the late 60's and still accurate today
Some may laugh at the next one...Harbor Freight...chump change as cost is concerned but right on teh money with torque...been using it for two years and still accurate..
Another good one is Proto...this one I purchased during the late 60's and still accurate today
I too have a Proto from around 70-72. It's 1/2" & works great. I also have a 3/8" ft/lb & a 3/8" in/lb. I use them all, depending upon the task at hand. If there's something that really require torque, I do have the Husky 1/2" that goes up to 250 ft/lb. It's longer than the Proto.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
You may find you need more than one torque wrench as time goes on, depending on the job you have to do. I have a Proto 0-200 ft/lb clicker type, an SK 0-175 ft/lb dial type, a Snap-on Torquemeter dial type 0-150 in./lb, and a CDI 0-75 in./lb dial type. If I'm not mistaken, I read somewhere that torque wrenches are generally not accurate until after the first 15% or 20% of their rating. In other words, a 200 ft/lb torque wrench will not really be accurate unless you are using it to torque something at 30 or 40 ft/lbs or higher. I have found that the dial type ones I have are pretty accurate throughout their ranges though. "Brand name" clicker or dial-type torque wrenches are fairly expensive. If your budget won't allow it, the old fashioned beam type from a good manufacturer like SK, Craftsman, etc will do the job just as well.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Red71.... Click-type wrenches "appear" to be easier to use and people think they are more accurate because they click. Neither is true. Click-types are notorious for being inaccurate and there is a tendency for folks who use them to think they can't put too much torque on a bolt because of its design. Fact is, many folks overtorque them...they hear the click and pull "just a little more". With a dial type you can ease up on the right value, because you know what torque you are applying..ALL the time. And the dial/scale has no mechanism to wear/fail. If it reads, it reads right. Only my opinion [but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night....].
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 12,065
Likes: 2
From: Smalltownville Michigan
Cruise-In 5, 6 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
I agree with the "you get what ya pay for" crowd. Be sure to get one with a dedicated case and be sure to store it in there when you are not using it. Also be sure to store it at the lowest calibrated setting. Just because the wrench goes to "0" doesn't mean that it is calibrated to that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
Very interesting comments from lots of experence. My 2 cents worth. Beam verses click. For me,when using beam types on applications such as head bolt tourque, the pointer get a bit shaky at the upper ends. I am fairly strong, but still the shakes at upper power endevors. The click allows me to smoothly apply muscle till the click is felt. Plus I dont have to try and see the pointer. Remember if using a extension,that will twist somewhat,throwing off the figures. Kolbat,from Lowes ,is also a good unit, priced ok. Think I am going to buy an "inch pound" one..never had one and have snapped off a few bolts...such as on valve covers or oil pans...what a pain to replace..LOL.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Red71.... Click-type wrenches "appear" to be easier to use and people think they are more accurate because they click. Neither is true. Click-types are notorious for being inaccurate and there is a tendency for folks who use them to think they can't put too much torque on a bolt because of its design. Fact is, many folks overtorque them...they hear the click and pull "just a little more". With a dial type you can ease up on the right value, because you know what torque you are applying..ALL the time. And the dial/scale has no mechanism to wear/fail. If it reads, it reads right. Only my opinion [but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night....].
But how do you know if your wrench is accurate,do we simple trust that more bucks is better?
Does anyone know how to test a torque wrench?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
There is only 1 way to accuritely test a torq wrench and that is with a torq meter. Since I do not own one I will have to send my wrenches out to be calibrated.
For the most part you can trust more $$ is more better, for the most part. But without testing you simply do not know.
For the most part you can trust more $$ is more better, for the most part. But without testing you simply do not know.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
There is a way to test a torque wrench. I found an article on it surfing the net once. You have to weld two old sockets together and use an old fashioned beam type torque wrench (what does that tell you) to check your clicker type against. I know that all of the major brands of torque wrenches come with a calibration certificate so you know it has been tested and is accurate when you get it. As long as you don't drop it or misuse it I think a good torque wrench will probably stay reasonably accurate for a long time. If you use one professionally you probably would need to get it calibrated once a year or as needed.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
we have a $300 snap on torque wrench at the shop we have mainly been using it on deisel head bolts @ 170 ft pounds. I used it this weekend on a 289 overhaul and torqued my mains to 70 ft pounds and the crank would not even turn. rechecked everything and realized it may be off. bought one at walmart (my only option on Sunday) it worked fine 
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,950
Likes: 498
From: Chino Hills CA
I have 6 torque wrenches at work, and I am required to check them on a torque analyzer once a month, which I have at our shop (I manage a Costco Tire center). Wrenches must all be accurate within 2 % or I take them out of service. Once a year I have to send our torque analyzer out to be reclaibrated. If you take your wrench to a Costco, ask the Tire Center manager nicely if he would check your wrench on his analyzer. If he's a nice guy like me, he just might.