Hey all!

I'm from Nebraska, got my eye on a 1970 Stingray, Red, 454 auto.

Here's what I've talked to the seller about, he doesn't know if the air works, or is hooked up, the 454 is a new engine, and the odo is stuck at 82k. Car is in immaculate shape, and he's asking 15k. Any thoughts? Comments, etc? thanks so much!!

David

 

walk sofly here. Sounds like the "owner" may be a flipper. If he doesnt know those answers YOU need to check out a few things on your on. First of all, approach this car likes its eye candy and made to look that way for sales purpose.Look past the paint! Look at the frame just in front of the rear wheels..where it "kicks up"..you dont want rust issues there. Same goes for around the windshield and down to the floor from there. For a NOM car,I suppose its priced about right,but others need to chime in on that figure. Sounds like a fun car...good luck.

 

If you are new to Vettes and don't have a lot of knowledge on them find someone who does. Even if you have to pay them a small fee it is worth it. You do not want to spend 15K and then have another 10K to make it right. I'm not trying to discourage you and this may be a good car but always be cautious on the car that they do not know the answers. Look it over very carefully. Take someone who does not have a financial interest in the car and can be objective about the car. If it is a nice car and in the shape you say the 15K is not to bad.

 

thanks for the good info! I am new to the vette arena, few more questions to your suggestions, will I be looking for frame rust? Are the bod's made out of fiberglass yet in these years? Where the fender kicks up... is that in the wheel well or underneath before the wheel? Windshield, will I be looking around the windshield frame, and down into the hood for that rust? It does sound like a fun car, I just don't want it to be a FUN lemon.

 

• yes, you will be looking for frame rust
• yes, bodies are fiberglass
• rear wheel well - in front of tires...sometimes hard to tell but take an inspection mirror and flashlight - look inside the pocket where the trailing arm attaches.
• if possible remove one kickpanel in the interior (passenger side is easier) look inside at the body mount area if there is rust here you are almost certainly guaranteed there is rust above.

15k is a good price for a good condition big block car...in fact I'd say its a great price...which is mostly why it raises a red flag

 

I agree with all the above comments.
Ask the owner to see all the repair reciepts.
Check the weld joints on the frame where it goes up & over the rear suspension just in front of the rear tires. Check the body mount attachment points, especially the #4 behind the rear wheels which is easy to see. Bring a hammer to tap lightly around on the frame. Shouldn't hear any "thud" sounds but more a metalic hard sound. Also another area to check on the frame is in the front where the lower control arms bolt to the frame.
Bring a small white towel and put on the floor by the kick panels and open & close the doors several times. If you see any rust flakes on the towel there's rust on lower the windshield pillars.
Remember the car is 37 years old and will have lots of little issues that aren't as serious as major frame & bird cage rust issues.
When you drive it check the usual stuff ie:
Stops straight, Steers straight etc...
70 is a great year, low production, last of the high compression engines so take it slow but could be a great car.
Glenn

 

Holy crap!!! thanks so much for all of the GREAT information!! Much appreciated.

I'm just wondering if I should go back to him and start low balling, ie $10,500 or $11k, and go up from there?

 

Hard to say. Does it have the original engine, trans, rear diff? If it's numbers matching and is a solid car 15k is a good price. Also depends on the milage and how it's been maintained.

Check some sites with covrette sales to get an idea of prices.

 

15k for a clean bigblock car is a steal unless it has problems
nom or not that is a great price

 

Non matching engine I was told. He put a new 454 into it.

 

Well, still waiting to hear back from him. In the meantime, I found and went to look at a 79 Red Vette. Has 41k original miles on it. Original everything. No rust from the checks I did. (thanks for the tips)! Has the L82 motor. 13.5k

Whatcha think?

 

the other car seems to be a better deal. the 79, to me, is a little overpriced unless its perfect

 

In my opinion the chrome bumper vettes are more desirable and a better investment and way Go with the 70.
Glenn

 

You have 2 wonderful Corvette clubs in Omaha, Cornhusker and Midwest Early.

I am originally from Omaha and know for sure that a member from one of them would be more than happy to help you check it over. These are great people.

That being said, I have first hand experience with the nonfunctional odometer. You will have to tear the dash completely apart to fix it.

The best way to fix it is to replace the speedometer with a working unit. I did that and afterwards tried to repair the broken odometer by replacing one of the worm gears. It still didn't work so I'm gald I had a functional unit to install.

As far as the replacement engine, it all depends on what you want out of the car. There is a huge nasty debate on the value of a Corvette with/without the "original" engine. If you don't care then make sure the new engine is sound.

Check out the wipers and headlights to make sure they work. They are vacuum operated and if they are in need of repair you will want someone who knows the system to help you out.

Look for electrical problems by trying everything out. Lights, alarms, motors, etc. Look for evidence of cut and taped off wires for anything that doesn't work.

Check the seatbelts to make sure they aren't rusted as this could indicate water has gotten under the seat and sat there.

Check the parking brake to see if it works. Most don't and they are a bear to fix.

This year has fiber optic indicators on the shift console to indicate the functional state of the exterior lighting. See if it works.

Feel behind the wheel openings for evidence of repairs. Check out the gaps between the body panels, doors, headlights and hood. They should be uniform.

Look for fluid leaks from power steering, transmission, engine and rear end.

Another source of expensive repairs is the rear suspension. A set of rear trailing arms can run $900-$1200.

This should give you a pretty good shopping list to determine if the car is truly immaculate or not.

cc

 

Thanks alot for the info! I'll see if the clubs have a website to get ahold of someone!

That and I'm still torn on the NOM, but like you said if it runs well, then...can't hurt, I do care about originality, but having a direct replacement of an engine wouldn't knock it out of the game. I'll post back what I find out! thanks again,

David

 

There are several key area to look for rust. One is behind the front kick panels. the lower plastic piece by yuor feet needs to be removed. These are pictures from my car. The rust you see in these pictures is considered to be good condition.



In the rear wheel weels there is a small panel that can be removed:



Keep in mind what you ultimate goal for the car will be. I'm trying to get mine as close to the way it was when it left GM but to NCRS standards. I've spen several thousand dollars on various brackets, bolt kits, wiring harnesses and other small items.

BTW.....My GTO is the same color as yours.

 

Thanks for the pix! Good to know there are Goat owners in here too!

A little amount of rust is okay then? can you remove that panel with the wheel still on?

 

Better to pull the wheel off.

 

Nooohooway, the car isn't going in my garage. Guy didn't even show up to meet me, his coworker showed the car to me instead.

Engine had serious problems.

Looking at a 79 now. description:

"""1979 CHEVROLET CORVETTE L-82 COUPE

Parchment or lite grey leather.Automatic with all options. 2-family owned car in original excellent condition.Rare L-82 engine(original numbers matching) Only 41,000 actual miles. Just been gone thru to make sure it needs nothing.Very, very nice Corvette.Right in your price range! """

Nice looking car, driving it tomorrow. Guys with the L-82s' speak up!! What do you think about the engine?

 

[QUOTE=huskergto;1560736488]Nooohooway, the car isn't going in my garage. Guy didn't even show up to meet me, his coworker showed the car to me instead.

Engine had serious problems.

Looking at a 79 now. description:

"""1979 CHEVROLET CORVETTE L-82 COUPE
Parchment or lite grey leather.Automatic with all options. 2-family owned car in original excellent condition.Rare L-82 engine(original numbers matching) Only 41,000 actual miles. Just been gone thru to make sure it needs nothing.Very, very nice Corvette.Right in your price range! """


I have an all original 79 L82 4 speed with 29,000 original miles and I love it. I bought it 6 years ago with 14,000 miles on it and it was like a brand new car. I like the body style and the interior along with the rubber bumpers. You will have a lot of naysayers bout the 79 like a kazillion was made etc. I enjoy mine and I would buy it again...........LT