Trailing arm pocket
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Trailing arm pocket
I need some suggestions on cleaning up my trailing arm pockets before reinstalling the arms. They have some surface rust, and I want to make sure it doesn't become a problem in the future.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
If the rust isn't bad you can sand off the loose rust and coat the pocket with either Rust Encapsulator, Rust Bullet or POR-15. Rust Encapsulator in a spray can might be the easiest way to go if you are just doing the pockets.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
You may want to consider a spot blaster to clean out the pocket properly before applying any paint. As you know, this area is prone to rust. If you're this far into it, you may want to be sure you have no serious rust issues.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Whitmore Lake MI
What I did.
Just by chance I did this same thing last week. To the Passenger side anyway.
I used a wire brush the best I could, but it was sort of clumsy. I found that using my compresser and a blow gun tip removed all the dirt and very loose rust nicely.
After that I used a small piece of 60 grit sand paper to get what I could of what was left (not much). Sprayed the area with Metal Prep and then used POR-15.
I don't have any pics, but it didn't turn out too bad.
The idea I had after the fact was a small wire wheel on an extended shaft attached to a drill. Would have loved to try it, but didn't have the tool.
Hope this helps or at least gives you some ideas.
Jeff
I used a wire brush the best I could, but it was sort of clumsy. I found that using my compresser and a blow gun tip removed all the dirt and very loose rust nicely.
After that I used a small piece of 60 grit sand paper to get what I could of what was left (not much). Sprayed the area with Metal Prep and then used POR-15.
I don't have any pics, but it didn't turn out too bad.
The idea I had after the fact was a small wire wheel on an extended shaft attached to a drill. Would have loved to try it, but didn't have the tool.
Hope this helps or at least gives you some ideas.
Jeff
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
All good suggestions and all would work well.
My choice is to use a Phosphoric treatment (Metal Ready/Stripkleen/Naval Jelly)
then coat it with POR-15 ... top coat with Krylon semiflat black.
Make sure all the seams are dry before coating ... a minute with propane torch helps.
My choice is to use a Phosphoric treatment (Metal Ready/Stripkleen/Naval Jelly)
then coat it with POR-15 ... top coat with Krylon semiflat black.
Make sure all the seams are dry before coating ... a minute with propane torch helps.
Last edited by NHvette; Jun 20, 2007 at 09:43 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Encinitas Ca
Just finished
my second car. I use a Dremel tool with the cup and flat brushes. I buy the brushes on-line NOT from Dremel (to expensive) but cheap Asian crap that can be thrown away without crying the blues. Once clean I use Por-15 solvent with a tinning brush (for stiffness) and scrub good. Dry with paper towel until clean. Paint with Por-15, second coat one to two hours later. Let set for 24 hours. Wish I could post pix but I still don't get it.....how to post the pix. I don't top coat over the Por-15 due to the fact that dirt will wash off very easy from the surface. I sold Por-15 for ten years and have never found anything that can top this product.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Rick B.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
The frame is solid - I've poked and prodded all over it with a heavy screwdriver. I just want to make sure it doesn't become a problem in the future, since I have things out of the way. The only rot in the car is the #4 reinforcements.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 166
Likes: 22
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
RE: Stainless bolt vs Grade 8 bolt
After working so hard to get the trailing arms out, I also had it in my noggin to go stainless everywhere. I had the same discussion as Rick B with Dan at Van Steel WRT the strength and ultimately I went with Van Steel's advice and used the Grade 8 bolts.
I did go with the stainless shims and stainless parking brake components though
Swede
After working so hard to get the trailing arms out, I also had it in my noggin to go stainless everywhere. I had the same discussion as Rick B with Dan at Van Steel WRT the strength and ultimately I went with Van Steel's advice and used the Grade 8 bolts.
I did go with the stainless shims and stainless parking brake components though
Swede
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Wasn't the stock bolt Grade 5?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
couple of the original shims were so rusted to the bolt that I couldn't budge them with a crowbar.
Rick B.
