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Can't figure out how to use the archives to find information on installing a front clip on a 68 convertible. I'm installing both new side fenders, right inner fender skirt and new lower valance panel. Does anyone know if it is best to bond all of those panels on and install the whole front clip as a unit or is it possible to just bond the top surround on and build from there without getting sag in the top surround? I'm concerned about how much time you have before the bonding adhesive starts to set. Or can you give me some tips on installing the clip as a unit. Some information from the archives would be great if someone knows how to send them to me. Any help would be appreciated. BJ
You need to determine what your new panels are made of (SMC, old press-molded, etc) and use a compatible bonding adhesive. The instructions with the bonding adhesive will give you the set up times. The stock panels and bonding strips are press-molded.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jul 10, 2007 at 03:22 PM.
I have a book on late C3 and it say to do the hood surround first, then the fenders. I think the reason is the fender skirts get bonded to the surround and its impossible to get to some of the seams with the fenders on
I have a book on late C3 and it say to do the hood surround first, then the fenders. I think the reason is the fender skirts get bonded to the surround and its impossible to get to some of the seams with the fenders on
That makes sense to me also. Was just wondering if the hood surround would sag without the side fenders attached. Sounds like a better way to go since I would only have to deal with bonding one panel at a time and that would give me more time for accuracy before the bonding adhesive sets up. I've been in the metal restoration business for classic cars for over 35 years but there is no rush to weld the panels on. I've also done a fair amount of fiberglass work on the vettes that I've owned but never ran into a situation where I had to do the whole front end. Thanks for the info. BJ
No Problem. Best I recall, it says to dry fit the hood surround and hood and adjust the radiator support to get the level and height right, fit, fit, fit, them mark and then bond
You need to determine what your new panels are made of (SMC, old press-molded, etc) and use a compatible bonding adhesive. The instructions with the bonding adhesive will give you the set up times. The stock panels and bonding strips are press-molded.
Easy Mike, The fenders are press moulded and the valance is hand laid . Corvette Central now sells a new bonding adhesive that they say is compatible with all types of glass on corvettes and they claim can also be used as a filler.
No Problem. Best I recall, it says to dry fit the hood surround and hood and adjust the radiator support to get the level and height right, fit, fit, fit, them mark and then bond
Yes I read the same thing. I read to dry fit parts and temporarilly anchor them with screws which can also hold in alignment until bonding adhesive sets up. then remove screws and repair holes. What do you think?
i have done this on many vettes. dry fit is key, once the bonding agend hardens you are commited. plus gets some body clamps, like a vice grip with big jaws, they help allot holding things in place, plus grind any area with an electric or air grinder with 36 grit so the glue will bond with it. try not to make a mess or use too much bonding agent as it will ooz out everywhere and make a real mess.
If you are concerned with time, use a slow setting epoxy from Fusor or alike with an hour or so working time. Avoid screws if at all possible. I use various length deep reach channel lock type pliers for installing body panels. I just buy the channel lock knock-offs from Harbor freight and if need to, cut and weld extensions to the arms. Is the windshield and dash out? If so, you can use about 10 short pairs of pliers to hold the top surround on.
If you are concerned with time, use a slow setting epoxy from Fusor or alike with an hour or so working time. Avoid screws if at all possible. I use various length deep reach channel lock type pliers for installing body panels. I just buy the channel lock knock-offs from Harbor freight and if need to, cut and weld extensions to the arms. Is the windshield and dash out? If so, you can use about 10 short pairs of pliers to hold the top surround on.
No unfortunately the dash and windshield are still in and I don't want to disturb them if at all possible. I have a new bonding agent from Corvette Central that is supposed to work with all types of corvette fiberglass. Have you used that?
Here is a link to some of the pics I took during the front clip install on my '78. I used the book From "Glass-Ra". It was a huge help. Along with the great advice I got here. http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c7...978/?start=100
Here is a link to some of the pics I took during the front clip install on my '78. I used the book From "Glass-Ra". It was a huge help. Along with the great advice I got here. http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c7...978/?start=100
Thanks for the pictures Dr. Jay. I was hoping to see that someone installed the top surround seperate. I believe it will allow more time for alignment of the other panels before bonding adhesive starts to set. Thanks again, BJ