I got a headlight switch from local fast-food auto parts store, No vacume part. Can the Vacume part of the headlight switch be moved to a new switch, or is it all one assembly?

 

You have the wrong switch. The new one should have the vacuum ports.

What store did it come from? Do you have a Napa or an Oreilly?

 

Nope take it back make sure they gave you the right one for the car you have



Tim

 

the headlight switch that was in my 70 project (not bubbazied too much) didn't have vacuum ports. it looked oem. unfortunately, in my haste to remove it, i didn't examine how it was supposed to work the vacuum system.

 

It should. The vacume hoses connect to the switch valves under the steering wheel.

 

Neither of those can get the correct switch. I've tried.

 

I'm guessing Kragen's

There's a Monument Auto parts in your area, may give them a shot if the place you got it from can't come through

Corvette Clinic in San Jose has them, or I have an extra one if your in a bind

 

AutoZone actually. I'll try Corvette Clinic, good to have a local resource. If there prices are too high I may take you up on the offer if you don't have any plans for the switch, If you want to get rid of it, I'll take it.

 

I bought a headlight switch while tracking down an electrical glitch, thinking that was the problem. Well it wasn't, so now I have a new switch installed, and one I know is good sitting in my parts box out in the shed. So if Corvette Clinic wants too much (I think around $60 if I remember right) you're welcome to it. You'd be driving practically right past my house on the way to the Clinic anyway

 

I'm pretty sure you can just change the top plate with the vacuum valve attached.If you give me the number Autozone sold you I'll go get one tomorrrow and try to change it just for fun and future info.

 

Sounds good to me, the switch was only 17 bucks so, here are the pics of the switch,,

I'm just reluctant to pull the old one and then have the car sit a week untill I get a new switch, if this one won't work, as it's an involved job, and don't want to have to do it twice.

 

OK Its possible to switch top plates and my Wells SW141 was only $11.99.I thought it would be a 3 min. job but turned out to be a 15 min. job.You have to modify a couple of things a tiny bit. (if it was a GM switch i dont think you would have to modify) It will involve a file and a hacksaw blade and some patience.If your interested let me know and I will tell you what I did and post some pics.

 

That's good to know in case my over-priced imported switch gives out

 

Yes, yes please do tell. I'm going to pull the switch monday, what has to be done? pics would be nice also. Thank you. C.

 

I checked around and I had an old GM switch off a Caprice and IT would not need to be modified.There are a couple little differences on the Wells switch.On the old vacuum top plate the hole that the white ceramic comes through will have to be made a little bigger at the 2 points in the drawing.The ceramic on the new switch is bigger on the corners.
Inside the switch is a groove in the slider that the tab for the vacuum valve goes into.The new switch doesnt have this groove.I just used a wide hacksaw blade to cut the groove.Its only needed on one side of the slider-(arrow in pic)-the GM one has it on both sides.
OK bend the 2 tabs up on the sides of the top plate and slowly remove top plate watching where everthing goes.Do this on both and lay the parts side by side.Cut the slot in the new slider at the same spot as the old one Make sure its deep enough.Dont twist the saw blade the plastic will crack.I suppose you could switch sliders if the contacts were not burned up.Now file the vacuum top plate to fit the ceramic on the new switch.Now just assemble watching to make sure the tab for the vacuum valve goes into the groove you cut in the new slider.Bend the tabs over and your done.Dont force it together it all fits like a jigsaw puzzel. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

so you grove the Wells slider and file the GM vac top plate center hole front tabs to fit the Wells ceramic body? got it. Thanks,, C.

I also noticed that the position button on the GM slider is about 1/8" lower then the one on the Wells, with the GM top cover positioning the Wells slider, it will position it 1/8" off, posibly causing a weak path,, possible heat and fire resulting. I'll go with a new switch. Thank you for checking it out though. A standard GM switch would work I would bet. Thanks,, C.

 

Yes I noticed the bump on the positioner was different but I think the black plastic part of the Wells switch also positions the top plate slightly different.I tried using the bump from the GM switch also and it fits but it would take some more work to determain which bump piece would provide the best contact position.Looking at the contacts in the switch they seem to be pretty long and might be a non issue but its better to be safe than sorry. Oh well we tried and it was interesting but I think your correct a new switch is your best and safest choice.