Headlight Switch - Vac part.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
Headlight Switch - Vac part.
I got a headlight switch from local fast-food auto parts store, No vacume part. Can the Vacume part of the headlight switch be moved to a new switch, or is it all one assembly?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
You have the wrong switch. The new one should have the vacuum ports.
What store did it come from? Do you have a Napa or an Oreilly?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: charlotte north carolina
the headlight switch that was in my 70 project (not bubbazied too much) didn't have vacuum ports. it looked oem. unfortunately, in my haste to remove it, i didn't examine how it was supposed to work the vacuum system.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Peekskill NY
It should. The vacume hoses connect to the switch valves under the steering wheel.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Safety Car
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From: Central Michigan
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
AutoZone actually. I'll try Corvette Clinic, good to have a local resource. If there prices are too high I may take you up on the offer if you don't have any plans for the switch, If you want to get rid of it, I'll take it. 
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 20
From: Central Michigan
I bought a headlight switch while tracking down an electrical glitch, thinking that was the problem. Well it wasn't, so now I have a new switch installed, and one I know is good sitting in my parts box out in the shed. So if Corvette Clinic wants too much (I think around $60 if I remember right) you're welcome to it. You'd be driving practically right past my house on the way to the Clinic anyway
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
I'm just reluctant to pull the old one and then have the car sit a week untill I get a new switch, if this one won't work, as it's an involved job, and don't want to have to do it twice.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Jul 21, 2007 at 03:14 AM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Sounds good to me, the switch was only 17 bucks so, here are the pics of the switch,,
I'm just reluctant to pull the old one and then have the car sit a week untill I get a new switch, if this one won't work, as it's an involved job, and don't want to have to do it twice.
I'm just reluctant to pull the old one and then have the car sit a week untill I get a new switch, if this one won't work, as it's an involved job, and don't want to have to do it twice.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area CA
OK Its possible to switch top plates and my Wells SW141 was only $11.99.I thought it would be a 3 min. job but turned out to be a 15 min. job.You have to modify a couple of things a tiny bit. (if it was a GM switch i dont think you would have to modify) It will involve a file and a hacksaw blade and some patience.If your interested let me know and I will tell you what I did and post some pics.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Inside the switch is a groove in the slider that the tab for the vacuum valve goes into.The new switch doesnt have this groove.I just used a wide hacksaw blade to cut the groove.Its only needed on one side of the slider-(arrow in pic)-the GM one has it on both sides.
OK bend the 2 tabs up on the sides of the top plate and slowly remove top plate watching where everthing goes.Do this on both and lay the parts side by side.Cut the slot in the new slider at the same spot as the old one Make sure its deep enough.Dont twist the saw blade the plastic will crack.I suppose you could switch sliders if the contacts were not burned up.Now file the vacuum top plate to fit the ceramic on the new switch.Now just assemble watching to make sure the tab for the vacuum valve goes into the groove you cut in the new slider.Bend the tabs over and your done.Dont force it together it all fits like a jigsaw puzzel.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
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From: Bay Area CA
so you grove the Wells slider and file the GM vac top plate center hole front tabs to fit the Wells ceramic body? got it. Thanks,, C.
I also noticed that the position button on the GM slider is about 1/8" lower then the one on the Wells, with the GM top cover positioning the Wells slider, it will position it 1/8" off, posibly causing a weak path,, possible heat and fire resulting. I'll go with a new switch. Thank you for checking it out though. A standard GM switch would work I would bet. Thanks,, C.
I also noticed that the position button on the GM slider is about 1/8" lower then the one on the Wells, with the GM top cover positioning the Wells slider, it will position it 1/8" off, posibly causing a weak path,, possible heat and fire resulting. I'll go with a new switch. Thank you for checking it out though. A standard GM switch would work I would bet. Thanks,, C.
Last edited by RunningMan373; Jul 22, 2007 at 02:50 AM. Reason: safety
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
I also noticed that the position button on the GM slider is about 1/8" lower then the one on the Wells, with the GM top cover positioning the Wells slider, it will position it 1/8" off, posibly causing a weak path,, possible heat and fire resulting. I'll go with a new switch. Thank you for checking it out though. A standard GM switch would work I would bet. Thanks,, C.
Oh well we tried and it was interesting but I think your correct a new switch is your best and safest choice.
