1969 Decode please
#1
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1969 Decode please
Hi everyone,I need a decode on this 1969 vert!
VIN 194679S713249
Intake manifold: 3855287
Engine: C8F188772
Also found on block: GM T12
: 861959
: D28-78
This was sold as a non matching numbers 427/4 speed
Thanks to all for the help.
VIN 194679S713249
Intake manifold: 3855287
Engine: C8F188772
Also found on block: GM T12
: 861959
: D28-78
This was sold as a non matching numbers 427/4 speed
Thanks to all for the help.
#2
Le Mans Master
First the VIN. 1 is Chevy. 9 is Corvette. 4 is V-8.. 67 is convertible. 9 is the last year of the model year. S is St. Louis. '69 Vette serial number ranges went from 700001 to 738762, hence, the vette in question was the 13249th '69 of the production year.
The intake is probably #3955287, which is a cast iron oval port from 1970-71 402's and 454's. It's the one used on the LS5 390hp 454.
If I'm getting it right, the block's stamp indicates it's from a vehilce manufactured after 1980, when VIN coding changed over to 17 #'s, but I'm not up on deciphering it other than to say it appears to have been built in Flint.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, so I hope I'm completely wrong.
The intake is probably #3955287, which is a cast iron oval port from 1970-71 402's and 454's. It's the one used on the LS5 390hp 454.
If I'm getting it right, the block's stamp indicates it's from a vehilce manufactured after 1980, when VIN coding changed over to 17 #'s, but I'm not up on deciphering it other than to say it appears to have been built in Flint.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, so I hope I'm completely wrong.
#3
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Thanks for the information SkunkWorks , I'd like to know more about this block, is it a 4 bolt main, is it a truck block?
You're right thougth,Thats not what I wanted to hear!
I'd like to make this a 427 car, what is the best way to go about it?
I'm willing to spend a reasonable amount of money to get there, but have no idea of where to start, or what to start with in regards to a block,heads ect.
Can anyone point me in the right direction,suggest some books I should read to bring myself up to speed?
You're right thougth,Thats not what I wanted to hear!
I'd like to make this a 427 car, what is the best way to go about it?
I'm willing to spend a reasonable amount of money to get there, but have no idea of where to start, or what to start with in regards to a block,heads ect.
Can anyone point me in the right direction,suggest some books I should read to bring myself up to speed?
Last edited by Mosse57; 07-21-2007 at 09:17 AM.
#4
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Since it's not an original car anymore, the best you can do is make it an original appearing car, which is your decision.
This is only my opinion and nothing more, but since it's no longer original, I would do whaver makes me happy in modifying it, without much consideration to correct numbered parts. Obtaining absolutely correct parts is an expensive and frustrating search...tough enough when you have an original engine, etc. For all that effort and cash you can buy new, modern technology parts for what correct, used parts can cost.
For me, I would buy a new aluminum intake manifold and carburetor...either an Edelbrock 750 or 800 or an equivalent Demon. Fuel injection would be primo but lots of bucks. A new Barry Grant Six-Shooter three duece setup would be great, but just as expensive as fuel injection, though an easier install than EFI. Top all that off with a 5- or 6-speed manual transmission and you would have one fabulous cruising Vette.
Maybe that's more money than you want to go, but I'm talking a dream car I would certainly want to enjoy.
Since your car is not numbers matching and likely can't be, short of finding the original engine, take advantage of newer technology and make it an even better car than original.
This is only my opinion and nothing more, but since it's no longer original, I would do whaver makes me happy in modifying it, without much consideration to correct numbered parts. Obtaining absolutely correct parts is an expensive and frustrating search...tough enough when you have an original engine, etc. For all that effort and cash you can buy new, modern technology parts for what correct, used parts can cost.
For me, I would buy a new aluminum intake manifold and carburetor...either an Edelbrock 750 or 800 or an equivalent Demon. Fuel injection would be primo but lots of bucks. A new Barry Grant Six-Shooter three duece setup would be great, but just as expensive as fuel injection, though an easier install than EFI. Top all that off with a 5- or 6-speed manual transmission and you would have one fabulous cruising Vette.
Maybe that's more money than you want to go, but I'm talking a dream car I would certainly want to enjoy.
Since your car is not numbers matching and likely can't be, short of finding the original engine, take advantage of newer technology and make it an even better car than original.
#5
Le Mans Master
I think you misread the block casting numbers. Should read 361959. Its easy to mistake the 3s and the 8s. its a 454 block, 1973 thru 1990, 2 or 4 bolt block. I got these numbers off this site
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
I suppose one could put the 427 crank in the block,but why?
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
I suppose one could put the 427 crank in the block,but why?
Last edited by ghoastrider1; 07-21-2007 at 10:30 AM.
#6
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I guess the biggest question I have is this block a good starting base to build a decent engine from?
I know its not numbers matching and I don't want to make it one.
I'd like it to be a 427 engine, its what the car started out with.
How can I find out if this is a 4 bolt main without dropping the oil pan?
Another question I have is engine cooling,I have a electric pusher fan and the car still runs hot,besides timing,what else can I do?
Maybe I should move that question to tech.
Thanks to all, this is a great site, and you all make it great!
Craig
I know its not numbers matching and I don't want to make it one.
I'd like it to be a 427 engine, its what the car started out with.
How can I find out if this is a 4 bolt main without dropping the oil pan?
Another question I have is engine cooling,I have a electric pusher fan and the car still runs hot,besides timing,what else can I do?
Maybe I should move that question to tech.
Thanks to all, this is a great site, and you all make it great!
Craig
#7
Le Mans Master
Unless you're going to build for max power, a good two bolt with main studs is still a good platform for a street machine. In fact, you could add those trick splayed 4-bolt caps... As for building a 427, as much of a legend as those numbers represent, they are just numbers. For the most bang for the buck, I'd consider building a 496 if you change the crank. You can still put 4-2-7 on your hood...
On the cooling issue, is you rad sealed so that no air circumvents it? This makes a huge difference. If that's in order, you could have a bad stat or cap, or it could just be time to service the rad. Also, check to make sure the pitch on your fan blades is correct for pushing air, as most are intended as pullers. Another item to check is ignistion timing. If it is significantly retarded (you really ought to have at least 12* initial), or the vac advance is on port rather than manifold, your temps can be adversely effected. Bottom line is, there's no reason to put up with running hot.
I'm with the resto/mod crowd. Make lemonade! Improving a non-matching #'s C3 with well thought out and well executed modifications will enhance your ownership experience. Look at this as a liberation from the drudgery of being forced to live by the NCRS approach. I wish I had a '69 vert with non-matching numbers in good shape to work with.
On the cooling issue, is you rad sealed so that no air circumvents it? This makes a huge difference. If that's in order, you could have a bad stat or cap, or it could just be time to service the rad. Also, check to make sure the pitch on your fan blades is correct for pushing air, as most are intended as pullers. Another item to check is ignistion timing. If it is significantly retarded (you really ought to have at least 12* initial), or the vac advance is on port rather than manifold, your temps can be adversely effected. Bottom line is, there's no reason to put up with running hot.
I'm with the resto/mod crowd. Make lemonade! Improving a non-matching #'s C3 with well thought out and well executed modifications will enhance your ownership experience. Look at this as a liberation from the drudgery of being forced to live by the NCRS approach. I wish I had a '69 vert with non-matching numbers in good shape to work with.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; 07-21-2007 at 02:15 PM.
#8
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Thats exactly what Im going to do,I had it in my head staying with a 427 CI displacement, but after what I read from you guys and looking througth the Jegs catalog,I'll stick with the 454 CI and build from there.
Thinking of starting with a matched cam,heads,intake and carb,also go to an HEI ignition keeping the mechanical tach drive.
Im very open to advice and being pointed in the right direction,as all of this is new to me.
I'll post a pic of the car soon,only have dial up in this neck of the woods!
The car is missing the rad seals,where are you getting your parts like this from besides Ecklers & Mid America?
Thinking of starting with a matched cam,heads,intake and carb,also go to an HEI ignition keeping the mechanical tach drive.
Im very open to advice and being pointed in the right direction,as all of this is new to me.
I'll post a pic of the car soon,only have dial up in this neck of the woods!
The car is missing the rad seals,where are you getting your parts like this from besides Ecklers & Mid America?
Last edited by Mosse57; 07-21-2007 at 06:11 PM.
#10
Le Mans Master
just to give you an idea of different paths...I have seen a 427,BARE block only(1969 I think) ,asking price was 4,900...thats just the bare,stripped naked, block and block only. For 5 grand,you can sure make a 454 (that you already have) talk. Remember,power is found in air flow..carb,manifold,heads,cam,headers. cubic inches dont hurt either and a 454 has a bunch of them. You have a fine starting point with what you have.
#11
Safety Car
just to give you an idea of different paths...I have seen a 427,BARE block only(1969 I think) ,asking price was 4,900...thats just the bare,stripped naked, block and block only. For 5 grand,you can sure make a 454 (that you already have) talk. Remember,power is found in air flow..carb,manifold,heads,cam,headers. cubic inches dont hurt either and a 454 has a bunch of them. You have a fine starting point with what you have.
#12
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Hey Mosse,
I've been trying to find out some info on the exact same block! I just got my '69 shipped home with a "NOM 427", and my casting number is the same 861959, I had to double check to make sure the first digit wasn't a three, but it's not...definitely an 8. I'm also curious to know where this engine originated. So much for building a 427! Well, I'm gonna go check out an LS-7 I think.....
I've been trying to find out some info on the exact same block! I just got my '69 shipped home with a "NOM 427", and my casting number is the same 861959, I had to double check to make sure the first digit wasn't a three, but it's not...definitely an 8. I'm also curious to know where this engine originated. So much for building a 427! Well, I'm gonna go check out an LS-7 I think.....