C3 door lock jammed Help please
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
This worked great! Only took 4 or 5 tries. When the handle seemed to kind of stick open, I turned the lock back to the locked position, then was able to unlock normally! Thank you so much!
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,599
Likes: 7,046
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
One other little tid-bit of info for an old thread:
On my '68 above the striker-adjusting-bolt, there is a small wedge shaped piece of brass about 1" long by 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick held in place with two screws------there is a matching wedge on the door itself above the latch mechanism.
If the door is shut too forcefully, the two wedges "overlap", rather than resting against each other-----causing the door to jamb itself closed (it will appear that the latch mechanism is not releasing properly, but it is actually the two wedges that have "locked together".
The door edge will not appear to be flush/aligned but will be sitting too far "in from the body edge" I actually had to use a flat pry-bar from "inside" the door/jamb crevice to "move the door forward" about 1/6" while holding the latch to the "release position".....then the two wedges finally popped aloose which let the latch mechanism correctly release allowing the door to open.
I adjusted the striker-bolt outward a little to prevent the wedges from "interlocking" with each other again....making sure the door aligned flush with the rear quarter-panel (the aged-worn-out-compressed door seals allowed the door to close "too far" causing the wedges to "lock together".
EDIT: It seems that the old rubber door seals are too deteriorated to prevent the door from "closing too much".
On my '68 above the striker-adjusting-bolt, there is a small wedge shaped piece of brass about 1" long by 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick held in place with two screws------there is a matching wedge on the door itself above the latch mechanism.
If the door is shut too forcefully, the two wedges "overlap", rather than resting against each other-----causing the door to jamb itself closed (it will appear that the latch mechanism is not releasing properly, but it is actually the two wedges that have "locked together".
The door edge will not appear to be flush/aligned but will be sitting too far "in from the body edge" I actually had to use a flat pry-bar from "inside" the door/jamb crevice to "move the door forward" about 1/6" while holding the latch to the "release position".....then the two wedges finally popped aloose which let the latch mechanism correctly release allowing the door to open.
I adjusted the striker-bolt outward a little to prevent the wedges from "interlocking" with each other again....making sure the door aligned flush with the rear quarter-panel (the aged-worn-out-compressed door seals allowed the door to close "too far" causing the wedges to "lock together".
EDIT: It seems that the old rubber door seals are too deteriorated to prevent the door from "closing too much".
Last edited by doorgunner; Jul 11, 2014 at 10:26 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 6
From: Lebanon Junction KY
I had the same thing happen to my son's 1975. What I found to be the problem was that the rod that runs from the exterior door handle to the latch needed to be adjusted. What happens is when the rod from the exterior door handle is not just right, and it puts a little pressure onthe latch, it will not let the door lock operate properly. It will also cause the door to not open after it is shut sometimes. Try pulling the door panel off and disconnecting the rod that runs to the exterior door handle. Once you have it loose, try operating the door lock and I'll bet you will find that it works properly. If that's the case, then all you have to do is get the rod that runs to the exterior door lock adjusted properly. I would suggest getting everything adjusted and put back together and try it a few times before you put the door panel back on just in case it locks up on you and won't open. It is much easier to actuate the door lock mechanism to open the door when the panel is not on the interior of the door. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
This is driving me crazy mainly because I can't even identify what I am doing to make them jamb up.
7th Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I'm having the same problem with my 73, both doors. So does that rod need to be shorter or longer? I was thinking that since I changed both outer door handles the geometry might be a bit different that the original handles . Other than the outer handles everything is what came off the old doors, just transferred to the new ones. I did clean everything and lube all the moving parts with white lithium grease.
This is driving me crazy mainly because I can't even identify what I am doing to make them jamb up.
This is driving me crazy mainly because I can't even identify what I am doing to make them jamb up.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I had the same thing happen to my son's 1975. What I found to be the problem was that the rod that runs from the exterior door handle to the latch needed to be adjusted. What happens is when the rod from the exterior door handle is not just right, and it puts a little pressure onthe latch, it will not let the door lock operate properly. It will also cause the door to not open after it is shut sometimes. Try pulling the door panel off and disconnecting the rod that runs to the exterior door handle. Once you have it loose, try operating the door lock and I'll bet you will find that it works properly. If that's the case, then all you have to do is get the rod that runs to the exterior door lock adjusted properly. I would suggest getting everything adjusted and put back together and try it a few times before you put the door panel back on just in case it locks up on you and won't open. It is much easier to actuate the door lock mechanism to open the door when the panel is not on the interior of the door. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
I'm with LSH77vette and AKTbird; My drivers door (75 coupe) would lock but not unlock. Took everything out, cleaned it ,oiled it, examined it and put it back together. Still got locked out or in, depending on which side of the door I was on. Started playing with the rod adjustments and ended up shortening the stroke on the outside opening handle and magically the problem went away. I was ready to buy a new latch assembly; glad I didn't.
Mike
Mike
anyway you could help me with a how to on this? I can’t open my doors from either the inside or outside. I bought all new rods and clips and handles for both outside and inside
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 53,986
Likes: 6,212
From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
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